derekvigil

<p>No personal experience. But from what others At Nikonians.com have claimed it is a scam.</p>

<p>And yes if it doesn't have the recess cut out then it should have broken the d300 if the tab wasn't or isn't made to fold down.</p>

<p>From the looks that is not an AI lens. No holes in the coupling prong and no little aperture numbers on the lower part of the lens.</p>

<p>True Shun Cheung, there is a very little a 7100 could offer me personally. But there are many people that could benefit from a more modern Prosumer DX camera not that there is anything wrong with the D7k but we all know 2+ years is a long time for tech. If it had a few upgrade features i would consider buying one less likely as i have dreams of a 200-400mm F4 or prime telly. <br>

I personally would like to upgrade to a pro body like the D300. As DX is where i would like to stay for free zoom. And the seemingly restrictive cost of FF. $2,000 for a prosumer FF. Compared to nearly same cost D300 small pro-style D300.<br>

<br />I understand why there is a cost difference. Just at this time for me I'm not looking to switch. Although i have sold all my DX lenses except for one. This is in anticipation for an eventual switch, and the fact i bought an F4 to learn film. </p>

 

<p>Take Barry Goldbergs advice. Its very wise. Start off slow. Find your needs. Fight off NAS and you will save yourself a ton of money. <br /> <br />The others advice on gear is very good as well. <br /> I have a comment to add on backpacks. I have three.<br /> One super small lowepro light pack that still holds D7k 70-200 2.8 and two smaller lens or a flash + cards and batteries. Cost $35 i hand hold my tripod with this one. Good short walk about bag. Use clip on water bottles. And clip to belt.<br /> 2nd is a Lowepro Vertex 100aw Cost like $300. Holds everything and the kitchen sink. Also amazingly comfortable but heavyish. Its so well designed that i would not for a second complain out the cost. But it tends to be for permanent storage and transport for when i need all gear. <br /> And the third is a walmart job i bought for maybe $10. Its not a designed camera bag. I actually bought it for hunting. Has a camel bag slot and some webbing on the front. Med weight wast support straps. This tends to be my fav. Because it holds my gear. The tripod, water, clothes, first-aid kit really what ever i want. And still light and comfortable. <br /> For low cost non speed oriented i would suggest something like the wal mart job. How i use it. Is either pack the Small Lowepro in the backpack on top of what ever crap i want to take. Or I wrap my gear in clothes for padding and place on top of the other crap i think i need(why i say non speed option as it is a slower process to get gear then the dedicated packs). The webbing on the front is such that with my ball head off i can secure my tripod on the pack. It has two side pockets that are mesh that and perfect for holding water. It has a large front pocket for misc stuff. This is by far my fav pack. I don't use the camel pak because of weight. And the chance it can leak and ruin your day. I'd look for one of these in outdoors section. <br /> <br />If you want i can email you a picture of the walmart pack. Even if don't find the exact one it may help guide you to a similar solution. And save money. </p>

<p>Here is an example. Though its not quite like the one i found. <br>

http://www.walmart.com/ip/iSafe-Guardian-Backpack/22669574</p>

<p>The webbing on the front is very similar and thats what helps hold the tripod. But a key difference is on the bottom of the front of the bag on mine has a loop. And that loop hold the tip of my tripod where the ball head screws in. And keeps it from sliding through. It also doesn't appear to have side pockets for water. Which i like because they are reachable with out taking off the pack. But that way you have a visual idea of how a typical outdoors backpack can work. </p>

<p>Here's my question, as well as I'm sure a few hundred thousand other Nikon fans. Where in the hell is our D400 or D7100.. lol. Just sayin what you all are thinkin. </p>

<p>My guess your getting flicker from the Aperture blades. If you are stopping down at all from the lowest aperture every time a frame is shot the blades open to full then close down to your selected stop. There can be some variances<strong> </strong>in exposure each time. Slight but a difference and this is what your most likely seeing. With the right camera and AiS lens you can work around this easily. For D and G type lens you need to set everything up then slightly disconnect the lens from the body so that is wont change the aperture each time Due to the contacts not touching properly.<br>

I have not tried this. But i would google Aperture flicker in time-lapse and see what people suggest. </p>

 

<p>Main advantage for you of a D7k over D5.1k is that the D7k works with every AI+ lens - a few like old school fish eyes and such. So your "screw" type AF lenses will work. And it metes with AI-AIs lenses and gives meta data as well through programming that info in.<br /> <br />Other advantage is two command dials which if using a D70s your used to. You may not like the lack of that feature. I had a guy come over the other day to buy a lens off me. He had a D5.1k and I the D7k. Holding his camera to show him stuff was quite difficult for me. 1 Feels like a toy. 2 twisty LCD feels cheap lack of buttons on left side of camera. 3 Mode dial on wrong side no top LCD. 4 to change functions like AF mode, Meter Mode, ISO had to press a button i think INFO or {I} can't remember then scroll down VIA LCD select function to change then change that function. <br /> Just not stuff i want/used to be doing. I started with D80 then bought D7k. Both high end consumer. <br /> <br />There are a ton of other advantages to the D7k over the D5.1k But if you are looking at em you can figure that out. User save settings. Two card slots. MuP release mode. Flash commander. Built in time lapse... List goes on.</p>

<p>I will close with two things. Try each out at a Store before you buy. I think that will answer your question. And keep in mind that if budget will allow and you can forgo DX lenses. The D700 can now be had for below $1500 used. I see good low mileage vers going for that on local classified and other forums. That gives Pro body, FX, better ISo. You can thank the D800/e for bring these babys down to the poor mans level so fast. <br>

And all though D300/s are great cameras i wouldn't take a step back in tech, i would get latest that way your set for the next few year. Not wanting another upgrade sooner then later as the D300/s are rather old tech wise. But still great cameras. Although a seriously huge upgrade from D70s. Just my thought on that. Its what i would do.</p>

<p>My 2-cents</p>

<p>I have both the 18-55mm and 55-200mm VR on my D7000k. Though i never use the 18-55mm lens because i have much better alternatives, i use the 55-200mm a lot mainly because its/was my only long reach lens. But i find the IQ good using mainly longer end. Though those days may be coming to an end because i picked up a new lens. From what i hear the new version 70-300mm VR has great IQ for the price. I had the old version and thought it was good.<br>

My thought is if your going to buy a new 55-200mm lens springing a few hundred more bucks for the much better 70-300mm VR might be worth it because you may out grow the 55-200mm soon and will spend moneys later on an upgrade. </p>

<p>The only reason i suggested the 35-70mm. Is because you stated your a musician and the 35-70mm would give you great versitiliy for event shooting and fast 2.8 speed at low cost. I also have the D7000, and am getting the 35-70mm for event type shooting and as a walk around lens. Speed and IQ seem great from the reviews ives read. Spent a lot of time researching for this purchase.<br>

Just my thoughts. Its also an FX lens....</p>

<p>Nikkon AF 35-70mm f2.8 D older lens get the one from the 90's cost between $300-500 depending on condition And 50mm 1.4<br>

Thats atleast what i will doing for my kit. When i can find a good shape 35-70 in the lower end of $300. Missed one on Ebay for $205..... I also have the 50m 1.4 D and 12-24mm Tokina for my wide.</p>

<p>And At that if you can get one cheap enough maybe add a wider fixed prime to get lower then 35mm which on DX is about 50mm so standerd.</p>

<p>From someone that has all three lens. 18-55mm VR 55-200mm VR and old ver 70-300mm. I think you'll find the combo of either work great. The IQ on the older 70-300mm is outstanding. The AF is alittle slow. But for out door daylight shooting is not an issue. And you can get it on the cheap @ebay under $100. As stated its a bit big, but not heavy at all. Only thing with the 70-300mm over the 55-200. Is filter size. If you have filters or plan on getting some the 55-200 is the same size as the 18-55. Which can save you some cash in the short run until you get into more mid - pro lens which all tent to have much better filter sizes. <br>

And dont be affraid of 3rd party lenses. Just make sure you read lot of reviews VS. nikon to see what your getting into. And check the lens for defect because there tend to be more bad versions then nikon.</p>

<p>Thanks for your responses. I'm really considering Busch's book. I agree with the thoughs on the E-book. I think having a physical copy of a book would be much more comfortable to read.</p>

<p>Hi,</p>

<p>I am considering buying a Guide for use with my D7000. Has anyone use one and found it helpfull. Read the users manual. But i would like a more proffesional veiw on how to operate it at a hige level.</p>

<p>David D. Busch's version seems highly rated. Along with Darrell Youngs or Thom Hogan's . There are many more. Any tips would be appreciated.</p>

<div></div>

thanks for the answers, i know the picture is'nt that good. Its not what my intent to shoot that day was, just kinda saw the flower and wanted to see what kinda of pic i could get with that set up. I was shooting near dusk and had other shots to get. I'll try use wider aperture, i was just trying to get best DOF didnt know after f11 or so it compromised sharpness. As stated i wasnt really tryin to make it a good shoot, just for practice and knowledge. I have 50mm 1.4 lens and sb 800 but didnt have to play around and get good lighting or set up for shot. I was going for a landscape shot that i didnt get anyway. would the 1.4 prime beable to produce a better picture at f8 around same distance then the kit lens, i also have 55-200mm vr dx lens, but i dont know what the min focus is on it, and as stated i didnt have the time to set up and see what would produce best resultes. next hopefully i will next time and can use some of the advise from here.

 

Check list, Wider Aperture, Check DOF, Work With Lighting, Avoid Color Blowout and Less Saturation(which with raw dont really matter)<div></div>

here is another example. none cropped 1/5 sec f20<div></div>

D 80 shot with center focus, useing tripod, and i belive i used remote shutter release, the shot is much clearer but as i stated the pic posted here is cropped way down so it looks alittle blurry.

sorry need to edit should have proof read better,

 

"on auto iso 100" ... on auto focus and set to iso 100, pic is cropped severly, and i made small to make sure it would fit.

Hi,

 

I shot several picture of this flower today, and everyone i shot the center is out of focus the aperture ranged from f5.6 -

f20 and it came out the same. This example is at f5.6 1/50th sec using 18-55mm dx kit lens as close as focus would

let me, on auto iso 100. Not sure if i was to close, or what. Any help would be appriciated.<div></div>

I have the 55-200mm vr. and i am very impressed with it. ever at 200mm with the vr its very sharp. maybe not as shap as the 80-200mm f4. see my pics. all at 200mm

http://www.photo.net/photo/7502968<div></div>