alan_varga

I've spent the last week exploring of the interesting suggestions that all of you have offered: duplicating the base layer, then masking further adjustments:

• increasing exposure by two stops
  
• using shadow/hightlight
  
• using levels
  
• using curves (both on a single layer, or alternately one light layer and one dark layer)
  
• using brightness/contrast
  
• using a gradient
  
• using a spotlight (maybe specific to Affinity)
  
• using separate layers for dodging, burning and sponging
  

I couldn't find a setting to preserve shadows when developing from Raw persona to Photo persona, but that doesn't mean it isn't there.

One other option was saving an overexposed version as a JPEG, then trying an HDR merge with the original. The result was somewhere in-between.

A variant of this was deleting the dark areas on the light version and trying an HDR merge, but with that image having mostly white, that wasn't a great idea.

I tried working in the "Wide Gamut RGB Liner" color space, which I expected would give me a wider tonal range to work with (it's supposed to be 32-bit?). My "best" result was adding a Levels layer, setting the white level at 52 (0-100), and carefully masking the right edge of the drapes to set off the area with the china cabinet.

I must agree with everyone who said there is too much contrast to salvage this image. Another way to say it is that there isn't enough data in the lower light range to work with and get an acceptable result. Too much light and the shadows are lost, too little light and the highlights blow out. Overcompensating with extreme adjustments just makes for unacceptable noise.

This is a similar problem to audio file editing. If there isn't enough data, the low frequencies can't be boosted enough or the high frequencies sharpened enough that background noise doesn't ruin the result. Vinyl records are easier to restore than audio cassettes.

Thanks for your input everybody. Although I couldn't fix this image, I will be looking at how to calibrate the exposure meter on my camera, and reading all of the research material you provided. I got a couple of new ideas out of this thread and improved my masking skills; this week was quite a journey.

Look at my screen capture above, you'll see that option to click on one or both checkboxes and to the right, the over and under stats of the entire image.

For some reason I can't see your screen capture. I've had a little trouble getting my images uploaded.

the Display overlay for under and overexposure which will show you what is what on your own image, because you the image creator may decide some areas are fine to block up (especially in shadows).

 

Between the stats and the overlay, you can get a quick look at the exposure results on that specific raw.

OK, with RGB render I see that the china cabinet and the window frame between the two windows is "underexposed", and nothing is overexposed.

If I switch to Raw Channel there is somewhat less area flagged as underexposed.

Armed with that, how would I proceed (assuming I haven't gotten to trying the other suggestions yet)? Do I go after exposure, brightness/contrast or shadow/highlight? Or combinations?

digitaldog:

I'm unable to attach the CSV file from RawDigger because it's not an image. Is there a screenshot I can grab for you? RawDigger has a sale that only runs for another few hours, so if the data I provided is useful to you or anyone else, please let me know so I can purchase it at the discounted price. I'll be happy to learn it in depth, but not if it only provides limited value.

mikemorrell/John/paddler4:

I have experimented with Affinity's quick selection tool (and earlier the flood selection tool in Paint_Dot_Net) in other images to isolate certain areas and play with all of the various settings, so I know how to use them and what they do. However, after placing selections on new layers and making adjustments, they don't seem to blend in well with the original image. They result in a photo that shouts "...and I made this part lighter".

I agree that Affinity's video tutorials are very well done; brief and clear. But they don't help me with my original post. Since I am an amateur trying to get up to speed on both the original image and post-processing, there are still things I don't know. In this thread's example, which tools should I use to fix certain problems. Going back to the airplane analogy, now that I can get the plane up in the air and land it again, and I can turn and change altitude, what do I do in case of bad weather; fly above it, fly around it, or increase speed to plow through and get out more quickly?

The JPEG i posted was to save space, but if there is a 1GB limit, I could upload the RAW file, which is 28MB. (I'm used to producing JPEG's that are 5-8 MB). You can't see the china cabinet on the right because it is underexposed, but I can see it if I bump exposure by 2 full stops. (That's not the effect I want for the overall picture, I'm just saying it's possible.)

mikemorrell/John:

I'll try each of your suggestions; those are what I'm looking for.

I appreciate everyone's patience; thanks.

I am definitely shooting in raw. I'll take a look at RawDigger.

Affinity Photo has a histogram graphic that I can capture for all channels, or any of the individual red/green/blue channels.

There is also something called scope, which has views of intensity waveform, RGB waveform, RGB parade, power spectral density and vectorscope. I would guess that some of these are specific to this software, but I can provide those views as well if they would tell you something they don't tell me.

Here's the EXIF data. My photo editor is Affinity Photo version 1.10.

It is capable of HDR merges, but I didn't like the results of any of the combinations of the four RAW images I have.

I have several disappointing photos which I'd like to try fixing, but cannot find any practical references for how to go about that. Specifically, do I need to adjust levels, brightness/contrast, exposure, shadows/highlights, gradients, etc.? I don't want to know how to use a photo editor's tools (there are plenty of tutorials), but how to apply the tools to my needs.

I tried uploading a single sample, but I can't see it in the preview. I hope it gets attached; otherwise I'll try with a follow-up post. The lighting on the desk in the center is just right, but I'd like a little brighter yard through the blinds on the left, and if possible, I want to bring out a little more of the china cabinet on the right.

I have additional images with similar problems. Are there any guidelines from this example that I can apply to other work going forward?

Is there a forum that would allow me to upload an unretouched photo and get feedback on which tool(s) I need to use to correct something I don't like? Specifically, do I need to adjust levels, brightness/contrast, exposure, shadows/highlights, gradients, etc.

So far anything I've read or watched falls into one of two categories: 1) how to take a better raw photo and use camera settings correctly, or 2) how to use specific features in photo editing software.

What do I do if I don't have control over the lighting contrast in a situation, or I don't know the correct feature to use in the software?

The two brick and mortar stores won't work for me; one only handles used cameras, with one in my price range, the other has nothing in my price range.

I've narrowed down my choice to:

1) Nikon 7100 body ($419) + AF-S DX NIKKOR 35mm f/1.8G lens ($197)

2) Canon EOS Rebel T7 body + 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 is II Kit + EF 50mm f/1.8 STM Lens ($574)

3) Canon EOS 70D body ($399) + EF 50mm f/1.8 STM Lens ($125)

Final thoughts?

The 50mm f1.8 STM sells for $125 at Amazon, B&H, etc.

Amazon has a $160 kit with a Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 STM Lens, 3 piece Lens Filter Kit (UV, CPL, FLD), Magnification Close up kit (+1 +2 +4 +10),

tulip hood, collapsible rubber hood, lens cleaning pen/dust blower, lens cap and starter kit (perhaps memory cards).

Don't be too quick to jump! Take your time until a good deal comes along.

There are actually a couple more brick and mortar stores within 25 miles of my home, so I'm going to call ahead tonight and probably go out shopping tomorrow.

Based on other comments, I don't mind if the Canon 70D is old, as long as it is a sound camera and is within my price range. Although not "modern", it's newer than my Minolta.;)

 

First off, I wonder - if you're looking to buy a new 50 mm lens - why being able to use your 'old' 55 mm lens (with an adjustment ring) on your new camera is a priority.

 

Browsing the 'used product' sections of on-line shops like KEH, Adorama and usedphotopro might help you get a ball-park idea of the used camera and lens models that together match your budget.

I was probably unclear in my original post, but I don't expect to use any of my Minolta's lenses (primary, wide-angle or telephoto) on a newer body. But I do have 5 color filters and a 3-lens set of close-ups that worked with those 55mm diameter accessories, and for now I don't want to spend the money to re-buy them, especially if I decide later to upgrade from the low-end DSLR I'm about to buy to a different one in 5 years.

I found the Canon 70D I'm looking at in the used section of Adorama, so if I can't find anything local, I'm comfortable with that.

Color rendering with raw files should be good with any DSLR; JPEG output is subjective and I think you will find partisans for any brand on the market who will insist that their brand is the best. The Canon you mention is certainly a competent camera and should work well for you, but I would still encourage you to go to a brick and mortar store to try different cameras to see if they fit your needs if you possibly can. There are lots of good quality DSLRs on the market that will give you good results, but not all of the will feel right in your hands or have menus that make sense to you.

That would be ideal, and I'll check one more time for a brick and mortar store, but the one I visited yesterday is only taking special orders; they "haven't had any cameras in stock for several months due to Covid". Thanks for letting me know that the Canon wouldn't be a bad choice. I was expecting to shoot mostly in RAW. I've spent a LOT of time in post-processing the last couple of years to get some old scanned photos/slides to look their best (including Kodak photo CD's). I'm pleased, but have definitely had mixed results.

I've looked at the Pentax K-70, the Nikon D-700 and the article on the Nikkor AF lens, and gotten up to speed on APS-C and FX vs. DX. Also, after skimming some comparison reviews, what caught my eye was that Canon does very well on color rendering.

I found a Canon EOS 70D in very good condition at reputable online dealer for $399, and a EF 50mm f/1.8 STM lens kit at Amazon for $155. (I now know the difference between Canon EF and EF-S lenses). What are your thoughts on this camera?

Also, how good is battery life on these models?

Thanks Karim, I'll check these out.

The main problem right now isn't so much the camera as the lens. A lot of what I am finding in the lowest price range typically have a range of f/3.5 - 5.6, which I think would only be good for daylight snapshots, but not for more serious work.

After 9 years away from the forum, I'm back and ready to take on retirement with a new camera. I have a Minolta X700, and am having difficulty finding a DSLR replacement after several searches. Can anyone recommend a body/lens combination that will give me the following (new or very-good used condition)?

lens:

f/1.8 max aperture

~50mm focal length

52mm-55mm threading for accessory lenses/filters (I have 55mm, expect a 52 > 55 step-up ring, would prefer not to go 49 > 55)

camera:

ISO 100-6400 speeds

ability to shoot in RAW or JPG

cost all-in: $600

I know there won't be very many options, but I am not a professional. I am only looking to take vacation photos and explore low-lighting, both of which my X700 could handle easily.

<p>I have been reading articles all over the Internet for more than 5 years, and it's frustrating that I can't find what seems like a simple setup to me.<br>

I am in the process of digitizing old vacation negatives and slides. I have an Epson Perfection 3490 flatbed scanner to convert those to TIF or JPG files, and I can touch up the images either pre-scan with the included Epson software or post-scan with Paint.net<br>

I have other pictures for which I have negatives, but which were also put on photo CD's at the time of development.<br>

With these images as my starting point, I tried and discarded Microsoft Pro Photo Tools because it sometimes corrupts the EXIF data. While it allows editing (which results in invalid data in other programs) and map placement, I can't see the images full-size.<br>

As an alternative, I use Exif Tool GUI for map placement, and then scripts using Exif Tool command line options to set my location data (name, city, state, country) camera make and model (based on the year of the photos).<br>

I could also use Geotag (from Sourceforge.net) to set my location data and GPS coordinates, but not the camera make and model. If I import pre-coded images, I can place them on a map in my browser, but there is only one marker for all photos at a location, so I only see one thumbnail when I click the map marker. Again, I can't click to see the images full-size.<br>

I have no need or intention to upload all of my photos to Flickr or Google just to see them on a map. So my question is:</p>

<p>Is it really too much to ask to find an application that will:</p>

<ol>

<li>run on my local PC</li>

<li>load photos from a folder on my home server</li>

<li>place the photos on a map with markers</li>

<li>view multiple thumbnails after clicking on a single location's map marker</li>

<li>view a full-size image after clicking on a thumbnail</li>

</ol>

<p>If this question is outside the scope of Photo.net, I'd be grateful for a reference to somewhere more appropriate. Thanks in advance.<br>

Alan</p>

I am looking for guidance on how to correct the color and brightness on photos taken with a non-digital SLR.

Some are only available on negatives and slides, some are on Kodak Picture CD's. I have saved them as JPG's, but

none of the editing programs or tutorials are giving me the results I want.

I have been frustrated trying to adjust RGB, brightness, saturation, contrast, gamma, etc. I thought I might

make some progress with histogram equalization and white balance, but the results are grainy.

When I first took up photography as a hobby in the 1970's I bought some basic color filters to adjust lighting

conditions to daylight or tungsten film. I also remember reading about color correction filters. I think the

theory was that there were three color groups, red green and blue, and within each group filters (glass or

plastic sheets) would vary in density from 005 (very light) to 060 (very intense). By using various combinations

of these filters, one could duplicate the effects of my basic filters, but a whole lot more as well. Mistakes

with color on ANY picture could be fixed by just combining the right densities of the right colors (e.g. red CC5R

+ CC40G).

Is there any software that simulates holding up color filters in front of a photo? Is it possible to remove

graininess after brightening a dark photo?

Two examples of what I want to do are shown at

http://user.mc.net/~aevarga/tests/photos/photos.htm

In the first example I want to restore the sky colors shown in the left picture to roughly the colors available

in the right picture. The one on the left is too red because the sun was still up; even with stepping down the

aperture it was probably overexposed. I would also like to restore a little of the foreground.

In the second example I want to brighten the overall picture, as well as restore the correct facial tones and

sash color of gold/yellow. The faces acquire noise (?) when I brighten the picture, and I can't seem to get the

yellow correct.

Since this is a hobby and I'm not retired, I have neither the money nor the time for Adobe Photoshop. I have

been experimenting with IrfanView and Helicon Filters. Can anyone recommend software for color correction with

presets, as opposed to airbrush techniques, removing red-eye or creating fancy borders? Also, are there any good

web tutorials or books on color restoration which are software-independent?