chris_brandstrom

September 13, 2012

The distinction should be made that the D600 in not an entry level camera in an absolute sense (out of all cameras)....but certainly it can be considered entry level, for an FX camera. Certainly its now the lowest cost to entry for FX.

I say hopefully the trend continues. Imagine something like the Sony RX1 in the sub-$2000 range? That would get very interesting for me.

August 3, 2012

the 16-85? IQ is better than kit lenses, range is good, but it's pretty much a 'good light' lens with that variable aperture. if you never shoot in low light conditions, and never need to isolate a subject, i guess it's okay, but i ruled it out as soon as it came out because of that 5.6 on the long end. if its IQ was surpassed by the 3rd party 2.8s, that would be one thing. but it isn't. this has been discussed many times, but if nikon had made it a constant f/4, the 16-85 would be a LOT more appealing. my guess is they didnt want to cut into sales of the 17-55, but in making its specs so blah, they left the field wide open for compact/lightweight 2.8 3rd party zooms.

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There were rumors floating around of a 16-85 constant f/4 from Nikon. I'd switch to that in a heartbeat if they did come out with one...but it seems unlikely in the face of so many other lenses that are arguably in need. Of course they could blow everyone's mind and perhaps restore faith in DX by doing some thing like doing a new DX 16-60 f/2.8 VR or similar. I'd certainly be tempted by that as well.

August 2, 2012

George, is it fair to assume from your comment you've never used the 16-85? looking past the point that it's already been discussed in this thread, i wouldnt call any variable aperture lens "go-anywhere," much less "perfect."

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No lens is perfect. ALL lenses are about compromises. What is an acceptable compromise is of course different to everyone. For some people what they want is the aperture and quality of say the 17-55, so they simply accept the compromise of it being larger, heavier, and more expensive than other options. Others want above all focal range and one lens convenience, so they get an 18-200 and accept an image quality and somewhat higher price compromise.

As for myself....I have used the 18-55,16-85,18-105,18-200, AND the 17-55/2.8. Nothing fit just right for me until the 16-85. For me that IS my go anywhere lens. I find it's blend of great focal length including wider 16mm end, VR, small size and weight, and good overall optical quality to be an excellent combo. I accept the compromise that it is variable aperture and somewhat more expensive compared to other "kit" lenses. It is not perfect for all things, but for me it's the best combo for a walk around take anywhere lens. I have other lenses for more special purpose use.

July 2, 2012

Ken I don't think it's heat related. I just recently (1 week ago) got this EXACT same error with my own D40. I was using normally at a party and went outside for a stroll with my wife. Not at all unusually hot. Took a shot...got a black frame...then the same error message you got. It never responded after that and would have the error regardless of what I tried (lens remounts, cleaning contracts, battery pulls, two button reset...nothing worked). In my case I was at 41,209 on the shutter and am thinking it is simply old age and/or bad luck. I sent mine in to Nikon for an estimate just to see. Got a response this morning...$150 for repair. So in my case certainly not worth it. Better putting that money toward an upgraded body which I was very close to buying anyway. R.I.P D40. :( I may try to take it apart and do some of the things mentioned in those threads since I'm essentially write it off at this point anyway.

September 7, 2010

I always use hoods as well. As with some others, the reason is at least half for protection. I'm of the "no protective filters" school of thought so the hood takes over the duty. As a bonus the hood is about the simplest thing you can do to help keep out stray light that might diminish clarity and contrast.

I was outdoors this last Saturday at the Hampton Classic horse show. I had along just my D40 and 16-85 (with hood on!). As you might imagine I saw lots of people walking around with DSLR's....and almost NO ONE had hoods! This is in bright harsh midday sunlight where a hood is likely to do the MOST good....both for image quality AND protection.

August 20, 2010

I personally wish for a new AF-S 35mm f/1.4 Nano, ect. In fact I'm saving for it right now. Funny thing is I don't shoot FX, I shoot DX...AND I already have the 35 1.8! But I'd STILL get the new one even at 7 or 8 times the cost. :O

August 19, 2010

Yes Capture NX2 is nice....BUT..... VIEW NX 2 (just released) will remove both axial and lateral CA. For free!

July 9, 2010

Shun makes a good point. I started with an SB-400, and then got an SB-800. Both are iTTL flashes. I then added an SB-80DX later to use as an auxiliary flash off camera. SB-800 has more utility overall though because I can use it on camera with in iTTL mode.

July 9, 2010

I am assuming you want to use the flash OFF the camera for portraits? If so be aware that any old flash will not work with your cameras built in CLS commander. You would need SB-600, SB-800, or SB-900 for that. Now...having said that, there is no problem using an old flash off camera with your D90, you will simply need to set all power settings manually. This is not a problem for set up shots at home where you are not moving around much. I do this myself with a D40.

In order to make things easier I suggest you look for an SB-26, rather than an SB-24. You might also find an SB-80DX, but that might be more. The reason for the SB-26 or SB-80DX is that they have a built in optical slave. That makes it easy to trigger them using your pop up flash on the D90. You would need to set your D90's pop up to MANUAL power setting, starting with lowest power. Then when you turn on the"dumb" optical slave mode on the SB-26 it will fire when it sees the flash from your D90. Easy. Just remember you need to use all manual power settings on the flashes, but this is actually often preferable for set up portraits. PS- be aware the above mentioned old flashes are not iTTL and you cannot use them ON your camera and get nice TTL metering. I mentioned specifically for use OFF camera. If you want the versatility to use on camera iTTL and off camera with commander I'd strongly suggest you save and try to get an SB-600.

December 18, 2009

Nearly everything the average person runs is still 32-bit software. Which is sad if you think about how long there have been mainstream 64-bit Operating Systems. And there have been 64-bit CPU's for even longer than that. Maybe now that 64-bit OS's are finally becoming the norm software developers will ACTUALLY make 64-bit apps.

As has been said, MOST 32 bit software has no problem on the 64 bit OS's as they can run 32-bit apps. There are some things that won't, not many though. Usually the stuff that doesn't work is older 32-bit software that may still have some legacy 16-bit code in it. The 64 bit OS's won't execute any 16-bit code.

December 17, 2009

Well...really it's an update for the various fixes and whatnot. The 64-bit part is just a label change to make it officially supported. NX2 versions 2.2.0 and 2.2.3 ALREADY worked perfectly fine in Windows 7 64, cause that's what I've been running. Same goes for Vista 64 since that is what I was running before 7, and I've used NX2 on both.

December 10, 2009

This is same deal with the D40. While it certainly would have been sensible to have the IR receiver on both the front AND the back of the camera....I've gotten used just reaching around the front and triggering with the remote. Not too big a deal really.

You definitely wouldn't want it ONLY on the back either. I've used the remote a number of times for groups photos that I have been in. It's easy to do with the IR remote set on 2 sec delay. I can press the trigger in view of the camera, quickly drop my hand to hide the remote, smile, and get a decent shot. :)

November 18, 2009

I started with the SB-400 myself. I eventually got an SB-800 for more power and versatility. When I first got the SB-800 I thought I would sell the 400. Not so. I kept it and in fact use it MORE than the 800. I don't always bring my 800 in my camera bag...but I DO ALWAYS have my 400. No, it's not as versatile or powerful, but it is MUCH smaller and lighter, and that is it's advantage sometimes. It's great for quick fill flash outdoors, or just shooting around a casual social situation as the SB-400 looks far less intimidating. You can drop it into your pocket easily when not on camera.

Note that one doesn't have to restrict themselves to ceiling bounce only. I am fully aware of the SB-400's limitations, but even so I have successfully bounced it off things other than ceilings. Walls, doors, and people with white shirts next to me have all provided bounce surfaces when using my SB-400 in vertical orientation.

October 19, 2009

"only a slight twinkle of light on his wet nose allowed me to focus."

Note that he just said "focus." He didn't say autofocus. Perhaps he did autofocus, but we don't actually know. He might have manually focused.

September 1, 2009

Other have given some good suggestions but I'd just like to reiterate a point. I have a D40 and I also have both an SB-800 and SB-400. I use both with my D40...but for different purposes. The 600, 800, and 900 are "better" flashes than the 400 in that they are versitle and powerful. But they are not better than the 400 at being small, light, unobstrusive, and easy to take everywhere. The 400 has a different purpose than the others. I use in casual social settings when I'm just getting snapshots and I want something small and light and not indimidating to people. Even just the one directional bounce get you vastly better looking shots than direct flash.

The big flahes are when fast cycle, more power, and off camera use are needed. Having said that since you mention a spcific desire to use off camera I would suggest starting with at least the 600.

June 25, 2009

I'm going to jump in with these guys and say that....assuming the ceiling is not very high:

1) Check if there is flash exposure compensation set on the FLASH

2) Check if there is flash exposure compensation set on the CAMERA

3) Check if there is exposure compensation set on the CAMERA

Any of these three can affect your exposure, and they are all additive. If each of the above was set to -0.3EV, your total exposure would be 1 full stop underexposed.

June 16, 2009

Indeed, my Tamron 90 does the same. And as the poster above mentioned, many third party macros are very nice. My Tamron is very sharp. It does not focus internally, nor does it have VR, but it is very light weight. I get f/2.8 if I'm focused at about 12 feet and further out.

June 11, 2009

I think it's important to remember that the SB-400 is not a replacement for the 600, nor is the 600 a replacment for the 400. They are designed for two different purposes. I started with an SB-400 myself. Then I got an SB-800 and thouhgt I would sell the 400. I was wrong. I kept both and actually use the 400 even more often. Why? Because the purpose of the 400 is to SMALL and LIGHT, and SIMPLE...not to be flexible and powerful. When I need power and off camera use I use my 800 and 80DX. But the 400 is just perfect for casual snapshots and family get togethers. One of the best things is that its low profile is much less intimidating than a 600 or 800. It's also great to use for simple outdoors fill flash on sunny days instead of the pop up flash.

So consider that if you want something very small, simple, and light for casual snapshots the 400 may be just the thing. But ALSO consider the power and flexibility of the SB-600. Especially its ability to be used off camera with your D90's flash commander. That will open up a whole new world of possibilities!

June 10, 2009

Peter...yes that is exactly right. I have a D40 and trigger an SB-800 in SU-4 mode all the time using my pop up flash. All manual power on the SB-800 and the pop up flash on the D40 has to be set manual power as well, otherwise the TTL preflashes from the camera will trigger the SB-800 too early.

March 26, 2009

The Tamron SP AF90mm f/2.8 Macro is also a good choice. It is marketed as a macro/portrait lens, and it now comes in a version with a built in motor. I have one myself and it works perfectly on my D40. Its this one here:

<a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/330643-USA/Tamron_AF272N700_SP_90mm_f_2_8_Di.html">http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/330643-USA/Tamron_AF272N700_SP_90mm_f_2_8_Di.html</a>

March 10, 2009

Rob,

Consider that if you want to do a simple off camera flash setup WITHOUT CLS, and just manual power settings, you can simply get an older SB-26, SB-80DX, or even the newer SB-800. All these flashes have built in optical slaves. That means that all you need to trigger them is your pop-up flash set to manual and lowest power (so as to contribute little to no light depending on your aperture and distance to subject). I have both and SB-80DX and SB-800 and trigger them both off camera with my D40's flash. It works quite well!

March 3, 2009

I just recently got a Sigma "Dirty Thirty" for my D40...that is to say the 30mm f/1.4. I am falling head over heals for it. I am putting on the camera every chance I get. The focal length is perfect, especially for casul use indoors with no flash. It is sharp and the bokeh...the bokeh is just magnificent and smooth. My initial impressions are just so good that it is easily my favorite....for now at least!

1/30 @ f/1.8 <img src="http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s224/ccjb100/Sigma%20Dirty%2030/CPIceSkating201.jpg" alt="" />

January 29, 2009

Franklin,

To a certain extent, yes it's trial and error. But over time you can get a feel for the flash power setting as it relates to your working aperture, ISO, and the flash distance to subject. I am still gaining experience with this myself, but with experience you will be able to "guess" the settings you need pretty close on the first try. And with a few test shots you can get it dialed in.

Really it's more than just guessing though. For example: Lets just say you do some tests with an SB-800 and your camera and you figure out that with the flash 5ft from your subject, at F/5.6, and ISO 200 you need 1/4 power on the flash to give you a good exposure. Once you know that you will be able to calculate changes pretty easily. Lets say you want to use F/8 instead and keep all else the same? That is one stop less light, thus you need 1 stop more flash power...change the flash from 1/4 to 1/2 power and your back to the same exposure. Or lets say you decide to increase your ISO from 200 to 400, that’s one stop MORE sensitive to light...thus you need to drop your flash power from 1/4 to 1/8 to keep the same exposure. And if you make multiple changes just add them up: Lets say you move the flash from 5ft away to 10ft away (1 stop less light from the distance increase), you change your aperture from F/5.6 to F/2.8 (2 stops more light), and you change your ISO to 400 (1 stop more light). You have +3 stops and -1 stop for +2 stops more light total...therefore drop your flash power from 1/4 to 1/16 (2 stops less) and you end up with the same exposure as when you started. See? So even though you are manually setting your exposure and flash power, once you get the feel of it you can make pretty good estimations of what you need, even without a flash meter!

Now of course there is a lot more to this. For example...note that I do not mention shutter speed changes above. That is because your shutter speed has no effect on flash exposure! But shutter speed WILL affect how much ambient light/continuous light you get, which adds another dimension to your lighting possibilities. There is also the effect the distance between light source and subject has on the quality of the light...not just its intensity. Moving light closer increases it's apparent size, and makes the light softer while moving farther away does the opposite.

My single biggest suggestion to you, if you have not yet done it, is go to the Strobist blog, and read every single thing in the Lighting 101 series. I learned a LOT from that and had a number of epiphanies along the way. Once a lot of those basics sink in using flash will become much easier and more intuitive, even working all manually!

<a href="http://strobist.blogspot.com/2006/03/lighting-101.html">http://strobist.blogspot.com/2006/03/lighting-101.html</a>

January 26, 2009

No. The SB-600 does not have a built optical slave like the SB-800. However, you could buy a little add-on optical slave which attaches to the shoe of the SB-600 to trigger it. Something like this:

<a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/163363-REG/Hama_HA_6967_Hot_Shoe_Slave.html">http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/163363-REG/Hama_HA_6967_Hot_Shoe_Slave.html</a>

January 22, 2009

Yes Franklin, that is exactly right. In iTTL mode the flash sends out a series of quick pre flashes which reflect off the scence and come back Through The Lens of the camera (that is what TTL stands for) and is metered by the camera. The camera uses this info to set the appropriate power level for the flash automatically.

That won't be available if you trigger it with the D40 flash. The D70, D80, D90 and up cameras all have a built in commander mode. Those cameras CAN remotely command the SB-600, 800, or 900 and still have TTL ability. That is Nikon's CLS system. But yes, you can still set the power manually on the SB-800, and as long as the SB-800 is in SU-4 mode is will trigger whener it sees ANY flash. So in fact any camera with a flash or even other flash units going off will trigger it in this mode.

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Posts posted by chris_brandstrom