h._cremers

<p>It is an interesting lens, lousy lens hood though.<br /> Also, the bokeh is rather different from other large aperture lenses. I also have to take mine out more often.<br /> You state in your OP that you'd like a D200 or D300 (i also have one), but of course that wouldn't change the field of view, being a DX camera just like your D80. Taking it out on your F100 seems like a great idea. I should do that as well, still have a bunch of film in the freezer to burn.</p>

<p>EDIT: nice pictures !</p>

<p>Ray,</p>

<p>The L is for lock and it indeed has something to do with it, if you press it, that is. Please read the manual for more details.</p>

<p>Can you set your camera to another WB temp manually? If that doesn't bring solution, than the only thing you loose is JPEG shooting with correct WB.</p>

<p>I would also emphasize to have a look at the WB value with another tool than ACR.</p>

<p>I agree about the "line" of the GND. By the way, that's another example where handholding can help. When you handhold the filter, you can move it during the exposure, softening the line, making it much less apparent. In case of mountains, twisting the filter can help, but this takes practice.</p>

<p>I, personally, find the typical HDR halos much more objectionable than the tell-tale darkening of mountain tops with GND.</p>

<p>Krita has no limitations in that area, it can actually handle files with a larger bit depth. The only thing is that the development of Krita drives towards it being a painting application. Therefore, the typical photo oriented tools are either not as obvious or not as extensive.</p>

<p>The krita forums offer quite a lot of help, though.</p>

<p>I use it sometimes, but quite frankly, i am using Bibble for RAW conversion and with their layers tools i can pretty much stay away from the post-processing tools.</p>

<p>Indeed Qtpfsgui is one, now also called Luminance HDR. Works quite well, but has a steep learning curve. Does HDR creation and tone mapping.<br>

Another one is Darktable, a RAW converter which offers (basic) HDR creation and tone mapping.<br>

Both of these are open source and free.</p>

<p>On top of that, there are some tools that can actually read the 32-bit per channel data to do the tone mapping and more extensive processing. Krita and Cinepaint offer this option. you'd have to create a HDR file first though.<br>

These are also open source and free.</p>

<p>The general rule of thumb mentioned is of course the general rule.</p>

<p>Depending on the film used and the subject matter, i have enlarged to 75x50 cm (roughly 30x20 inch). That was from Velvia 100F, properly exposed with not too much tiny detail (like small leaves in the distance), and quite some post-processing. In any circumstance, such an enlargement is not for up-close viewing.</p>

<p>By the way, i used an LS-5000 for that.</p>

<p>Hi, welcome to the forum!</p>

<p>Starting with DOF, i'd advise you to read up on it, either via the internet (there is a wealth of info about DOF there), or via old-fashioned books. Can't advise any books, as i've gotten my info off the internet. And "clear" is not the same as DOF (at least not in my book, though i'm not a native English speaker/writer).<br>

Basically, DOF is the illusion of sharpness across the depth of the scene you're photographing. This means that there is only a single plane of focus, but a certain area before and after the focus plane appears to be in focus.</p>

<p>Going to the "freezing" of the rain pipe waterfall, you would need a fast enough shutter speed to stop the water drops in their path down. This can either be achieved by choosing little DOF (low F-number) or by using flash.<br>

The way DOF interacts with shutter speed is explained in all the web pages and books about this subject.</p>

<p>If you show some pictures, we could help out case by case.</p>

<p>What Frank said.</p>

<p>But, you could start out by cleaning the contacts. Then, make sure the batteries are fully charged.</p>

<p>I have the same combination, but never had the problems you mention.</p>

<blockquote>

<p>Remember light changes in intensity by the square of the distance traveled, a 2 foot change is 4 times dimmer or brighter depending on which direction you are moving. This works for all lights whether its a light or reflector.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Also, the closer the light, the bigger the light source, the softer the light.<br /><br />Wrt to the tight space you're in, every inch you can get the model away from the background will help.</p>

<p>If it isn't the bracketing settings; can you wiggle the lenses in the mount? Do you have their aperture ring locked, are you perhaps accidentally moving it with your supporting hand?<br>

Plz. be sure to check all the bracketing settings, incl. the flash ones.</p>

<blockquote>

<p>

<p ><a href="http://www.photo.net/photodb/user?user_id=2110110">Simon T (Ireland)</a> <a href="http://www.photo.net/member-status-icons"></a>, Dec 05, 2010; 05:33 p.m.</p>

<p >Hhmm. I see. If it is to be a third party like Metz, would the 48 AF-1 or 36 AF-4 be a better choice then than the SB-28DX? Thanks</p>

</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Try a 2nd hand SB800 or SB600 if you cannot afford a new one (or SB900/SB700). You're crippling the D2H's possibilities otherwise.<br>

Even though the D2H still does work with the D-TTL mode, the results aren't the same.</p>

<p>I don't know this for a fact, but on the nikon usa page (<a href="http://support.nikonusa.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/14463/~/nikon-scan-4.0.3---windows-vista">http://support.nikonusa.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/14463/~/nikon-scan-4.0.3---windows-vista</a>), it is clearly stated that the scan 4.0.3 software is intended for Vista 32 bit: "<strong>*Only 32-bit Pre-installed versions supported</strong>", approx. halfway down the page.</p>

<p>Do you have the same problem using something like Vuescan?</p>

<p>I'd advise you to read up on the use of flash (other than straight on on the hot shoe). This will help you understand the topic and answer your own questions.<br>

Books from McNally etc. will help you, the internet is a very good source.</p>

<p>Dear C.C.,</p>

<p>I think Nikon has you where they want you, ready to buy a "higher level" camera, which does offer what you are looking for.<br>

Nikon is a commercial company and they are not likely going to offer all of the features in all of the cameras. That would get them out of business quickest.</p>

<p>Hi,<br>

You should not change the power settings on the flash itself. You should set it on your camera. That's why it's called wireless flash control.<br>

In the same E3 menu, you can indicate the power level of your flash, without touching the flash itself. The camera is going to communicate to the remote flash by pre-flashing with the onboard flash unit. Obviously, your flash should be set to remote, same channel setup as on camera.</p>

<p>Hi, I am not sure how you know the meter is two stops over. If you're shooting negatives and all is fine, i am confused.<br>

To really know, shoot a role of positives under controlled situation and see whether it really is a problem.<br>

In case he always shoots negatives and the prints come out fine, i'd be inclined to think he'd be just fine going on holiday with it.</p>

<p>Don't loose the SC-28, as this allows you to aim the SU-800 at the flash. McNally's book shows this multiple times.<br>

Exposure compensation on the body is a global compensation and 1 and 1 is not necessarily 2. McNally explains this as well in his book.<br>

You control the remote flash from your SU-800, set the flash to REMOTE. You can then only set the zoom level on the flash.<br>

To get the camera to react immediately (or as quick as it can), switch to A or M mode, choose your aperture (and shutter speed) and adjust the flash compensation with the SU-800. Set you body for rear-curtain flash (check the manual, but i think it's called rear or slow).</p>

<p>Like stated before, the depth of field depends on the focus distance.<br>

So, for macro shot, the focus distance is really short, very little DOF even with small aperture (high number). For portrait shot, the focus distance is rather long (compared to macro), so normal DOF calculation apply.<br>

This means you can really use this lens for portraiture, it is indeed very sharp. It does have a nice bokeh drawing. Whether or not you want to soften a portrait of women, is up to you, it's a style feature, not a lens feature.<br>

By the way, i have this lens. And if you're using it on a Nikon body, the body shows you the effective aperture. This reduces (higher number) when you focus closer, because effectively, you're adding extension to the lens (the front racks out when focusing closer). It is normal. By the way, it seems that Canon camera's show the physical aperture, not the effective aperture (just in case you're wondering).</p>

<p>Indeed more than 3 ft is no problem. I am doing this with SB800 and SB600s all the time. I am using a SU800 to trigger the flashes, by the way.</p>

<p>How to do it is in your SB900's manual.</p>

<p>James (the OP), you may want to read up on the performance on FX of your 70-200 VR, assuming it is not the new VRII you have.</p>

<p>This may be important to you.</p>

<p>Hi,</p>

<p>How about www.alienbees.com ??</p>

<p>Calibrating your monitor with the Spider (isn't it actually Spyder?), is the first step. Next, you need to make your image processing or viewing program (like Photoshop etc.) use the profile you've created.<br>

Then, you should see more of what you're expecting.</p>