adam_friedberg

schneider lists: 72deg @ f22; 780 grams; 110mm filter (90mm rear

thread); 400mm i.c.; 4 element 4 component for 1:2 to 2:1.

<p>

distortion is not good (+- 1%) beyond 50deg from 1:inf to 1:3 (no

distortion @ 1:1)

years ago i had a deardorff 8x10 and kept it in the mf1420. i remember

being able to put in 3 lenses and a meter. you could put 2 filmholders

in the outside pocket. the bp1420 uses the same shell but has more

pockets/storage capability - it would be a better solution.

i have an 8x10 and 4x5 sinar p. the sinar pan tilt is the best head to

use with sinar cameras. also i use the 1504 gitzo and can recommend it

for your needs.

what are "practical aspects" if weight and price are not factors? have

you handled either the apo symmar or sironar? they are roughly the size

and weight of the 210 super angulon. both are outstanding lenses

designed for low reproduction ratios. the apo symmar takes 105 mm

filters, the sironar 112 (lee makes a 105mm adapter ring, a 112mm ring

might be a special order item). the images circles are both 500mm. the

apo symmar's flange focal distance is 455.2mm, the sironar's 452mm.

it's a toss-up. i'd be surprised if too many 4x5 shooters have, much

less use, either lens. the apo ronar would be more practical and still

yield excellent results. its smaller i.c. (396mm) would present less of

a chance for bellows flare.

i have had several linhof super screens over the past couple years and

while none has actually warped i have noticed they all bowed at various

times under differing conditions if the long sides were not supported.

putting match sticks or plastic q-tip shafts in as support does work

but they can fall out easily so they need to be checked frequently. i

switched back to the normal linhof g.g. and fresnel combo and find this

to be much better for almost all applications (lenses as wide as 72). i

kept the super screens (with matchsticks) as backups in case i break a

g.g. while travelling.

i have a similar problem with the front cap of my 150xl. the s.n. (or

some number) easily touches the front element. i was lucky there was no

permanent mark. now i use a new microfiber cloth as a barrier between

the cap and the lens. still it is annoying.

<p>

the front cap of the 210xl should be the standard for expensive, large

diameter lens caps.

"but wide open at f/4.5 I found the image soft enough to make focussing

difficult."

yes, english is mutable. nevertheless i am interested in where this

spelling comes from and who uses it as i've not seen it before, here or

in england.

please tell me why "adds" is an acceptable contraction of

advertisements and where this comes from. also i'd like to know why

contractions cannot be incorrectly spelled. at what point is it no

longer acceptable to add extra "d"'s to this particular contraction?

gitzo 1509

but if you can afford it get a foba stand

get it. it's the sharpest 8x10 lens i've used. i haven't run out of

coverage yet. i got the center filter for extreme shifts but 95% of the

time i don't need it. i've used it on a toyo with a recessed board and

normal bellows but would have preferred a normal board and bag bellows.

it is sporadically used on fashion shoots, when it is in fashion of

course. i've never heard a fashion or advertising client specifically

ask for it, though (except for 8x10 polaroid). avedon shoots 8x10 color

commercially. i know some portrait photogs who shoot it for editorial

and advertising work. the film houses in nyc stock and sell it mostly

to still life shooters (jewelry). it is not common.

i'll assume you were joking but it is fluorescent. and there is nothing

wrong with fluoridate or fluoridation - adding fluoride to something,

like toothpaste, exactly as fluorinate is adding of fluorine. i don't

know what flouridate or flourinate could mean.

i live about 2.5 miles north of the wtc. i spent tues morning on my

roof watching the whole thing. each day it sinks in a little more but

i'm not sure i can really comprehend what has happened.

dan,

<p>

when one buys a photoflex changing room new there is a printed warning

advising the product is not guaranteed to be light tight. this is one

of the many reasons i use shadow boxes. a great many people use the

photoflex without problems, though.

david,

<p>

the loading method you describe is the same as the book/instructor

taught method. you are just positionong the holder with the flap toward

you rather than away from you as you load.

you should call sinar bron. they are very helpful. removing rubber

strips may be the wrong answer - there's a good chance sinar meant them

to be there. when you speak with them ask about the proper technique to

use the shutter. i have seen a lot of people do it wrong and think the

shutter was broken until they learned. the way you press the cable

release is very important. thousands of top pros use this shutter

successfully with no vibration problems and have been doing so for

decades. actually this is the first time i've heard a complaint about

shutter vibration without being specifically about multiple exposures.

<p>

by the way, what is a better solution, regardless of timing, than a

mechanical (or electronic) shutter?

the cheaper tents (photoflex,calumet) are not guaranteed to be light

tight. if you get one test it. don't use in bright light or leave your

film out in them until you're sure. some people i know who use them

always drape a heavy black cloth over it. harrison and shadow box tents

are much better but much more expensive.

the 4x5 bellows frames aren't the same so i'd think the 8x10's aren't

either. used toyo 8x10 bags are very scarce but they do come up on ebay

once in a while (i've seen two in the last yearwithout specifically

looking for them). toyo stuff is much cheaper in japan if you can find

a contact. also look into robert white in the u.k. you might pay the

same for a new bag as a used one would cost in the u.s.