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oleg_lempert2

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Posts posted by oleg_lempert2

  1. <p>Hi, I'd like to know your opinion if I should upgrade to 5D. My criteria is solely IQ, i.e. would IQ improve if I shoot the same scene with 5D with all other parameters being the same. What I mean is same time,same lens, same RAW camera settings. Then dispalying on same LCD monitor/printing same printer using same photo size (30D @ 8MB vs 5D @ 8MB ), not cropped or changed in PP in any fashion.<br>

    Essentialy, my question is "does 5D image sensor produces better IQ and sharpness than 30D sensor"?<br>

    I know there're many features in 5D that are not in 30D but my discussion is solely about IQ at this point.<br>

    Thanks for you input.</p>

     

  2. <p>I want to try to blend multiple exposures using HDR software. It seems so easy to get the input images: set camera on tripod, set +/- 2 stop bracketing and shoot 3 shots. In practice, there are many questions:<br>

    First, what if 3 shots do not cover exposure range and I need , say, 5 images. My Canon 30D can shoot 3 frames in sequence, not 5. Also, lets say the dynamic range is 6 stops, but my camera only covers the range of 4 stops: from +2 to -2. Is there a way to do it with 30D? I am sure people have figured some ways to work around these limitations. Thanks for your advice</p>

     

  3. <p>Hi,<br>

    Has anyone been to Upper Antelope Canyon in the beginning of October? My trip to this place last May was a sheer disaster. Went with photo tour, paid over $50, got no pictures. It was so crowded that I had place to put the tripod.<br>

    I will be in Page area again on October 1 and 2nd. I wonder if I should attempt it again. I read somewhere that crowds are thinner at that time of the year. But how about a beam? Will it still be there?<br>

    I got nice pics from Lower canyon back in May. No crowds. Easy and fun. However, no light beam.<br>

    Thanks</p>

  4. <p>Good morning,<br />I am planning my 3rd photo-trip to Southwest in the end of September. I want to include mysterious Canyon X in my plans. Has anyone been there? What was your impression? Specifically, how does it compare with Upper Antelope canyon? I mean, not just crowds vs no crowds aspect (this is clear), but how is the light quality for photography? is there a light beam in Canyon X, similar to the one in Antelope canyon? If I go I will be there October 1 st or 2 nd? Is it too late into a year for good light?<br />As always, I appreciate your valuable advice. Oleg</p>
  5. <p>Good morning,<br>

    I am planning my 3rd photo-trip to Southwest in the end of September. I want to include mysterious Canyon X in my plans. Has anyone been there? What was your impression? Specifically, how does it compare with Upper Antelope canyon? I mean, not just crowds vs no crowds aspect (this is clear), but how is the light quality for photography? is there a light beam in Canyon X, similar to the one in Antelope canyon? If I go I will be there October 1 st or 2 nd? Is it too late into a year for good light?<br>

    As always, I appreciate your valuable advice. Oleg</p>

  6. Bueh,

    Thanks for GREAT answer. Let me start by saying I did not mean to say it was a great shot. I meant to ask how to achieve the specific effect. I never thought about shutter speed around 1 sec. I thought it was much longer, but obviously you set me right. Another important thing that you told me the picture was taken at dusk, not at night. I will attempt this the way you suggested, BUT...the biggest problem here is people at the scene. I am not sure if you've been to Times Square - it is ALWAYS crowded. Especially in the evening. I may have a better chance at late night hours. Or may be forced to use longer shutter speed to eliminate people.

  7. This is what I thought. I will have to bracket heavily. Fortunately, this is one of those few lucky cases when a photographer has a luxury to come back any day, any time. And I am surely looking to eliminate pedestrians from the shot. Thanks for your responses and ideas.
  8. Hello,

    I own Hitech GND filter system but I am thninking about upgrading to Singh Ray GND filters. Please help me

    determine if benefit will outweigh the cost.

    Many say Singh Ray filters are of "higher quality". In what way is the quality higher?

    1. Are images produced by Singh Ray SHARPER than with Hitech?

    2. Do they provide better color rendition?

    3. Do Singh Ray are of better build quality (e.g. scratch less than Hitech) ?

     

    It would be very help to hear from those who has had experience with both.

    Essentially, this forum will make my decision: to stay with Hitech or switch to SR ?

  9. There're many approaches to post-processing and every photographer developed his / her own approach. I always shoot RAW. As I stated in previous post, the only things I change in RAW converter: Exposure, White Balance. Very seldom I use Fill Light and Recovery. I never touch Brightness,Contrast,Saturation,Vibrance, etc in RAW converter. Photoshop employs such sophisticated tools as Levels, Curves, Selective Saturation and Selective Colors. As for sharpening, this is my approach: I use both Smart Sharpen and High Pass. I have automatic scripts for 3 types of sharpening: 1) Capture, 2) Creative, 3) Output. Steps 1 and 2 use Smart Sharpen. Step 3 uses High Pass.

    ****

    1) Capture

    Up till now I used Capture sharpening to restore sharpening lost due to digitation. It is gental sharpening, hardly visible without knowing it is done. I intend to bypass this step in the future and keep RAW converter sharpening default (25). When I did Capture step I always put it to zero. Capture sharpening is done at the beginning of processing flow.

    ****

    2) Creative

    I use this plug-in to remove haze and to brush-in selective sharpening in image areas that can benefit most from it.

    ****

    3) Output

    This step is done in the very end, after final resizing.

    All scripts work in non-destructive manner, creating layers and allow adjustments to layer opacity, etc via Blend If control

  10. I apply Creative Sharpening to accentuate specific features in an image. It is followed by Output Sharpening with High Pass filter. I'd like the initial Sharpening step - Capture Sharpening - replaced with ACR default sharpening settings (25). Why? Because Capture sharpening, as Ronald pointed out, "is to only regain the sharpness lost thru digitation". ACR default sharpening settings seems to do just that - sort of 'gental' sharpening.
  11. I always use some form of post-processing. But the only things I adjust in RAW converter (if needed) is Exposure. On rare occasion I can use Fill Light. Most of my post-processing is done in Photoshop using Levels and Curves, as well as Saturation and Sharpening. I apply Creative Sharpening to accentuate specific features in an image. It is followed by Output Sharpening with High Pass filter.

    You can see the initial Sharpening step - Capture Sharpening - is missing. What am trying to do is to replace it with ACR default sharpening (25).

  12. Canon 30D Picture Style "LANDSCAPE" applies +7 sharpening factor. If I shoot RAW, is this sharpening applied to

    the photo? If yes why everyone is saying "when shoot RAW no camera settings applied"? Thanks for clarification

  13. I 'd like to ask if anyone had this problem. I started using the technique of combining two exposures in Photoshop.

    I use method described here http://www.luminous-landscape.com/tutorials/digital-blending.shtml . When the blending

    is completed I can see ugly hallos around objects sticking into the sky (such as tree branches, chimneys,polls,etc).

    These hallos are visible when the sky is background. I tried all settings for Gaussian Blur - from very low 5 to high 53 -

    nothing helps. I do not know what to do. I started using this method for my landscape pics because I don't like to

    place GND filter plastic to my expensive lens. But now it seems I have to do just that.

    What am I doing wrong? Please help.

  14. I often have to take separate exposure readings for my landscape shots. For example, one reading from bright sky,

    the other from shadowed foreground. Sometimes I have to zoom to include either only sky portion or only foreground.

    If I do not zoom I wouldn't be able to isolate that part of the scene. My meter mode is "evaluative" (Canon 30D).

    If I were able to frame the same part of the scene without zooming, would the exposure values change?

    Thanks

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