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cano_maga_a

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Posts posted by cano_maga_a

  1. <p> Well, after all, we can all give an opinon about what works for us, but I guess it´s all depending on your type of photography, and the camera you will use for travelling (Assuming you don't use both). <br>

    I agree that working with 28 or even 24mm is fine for most ppl with FF, and it may work well for you unless you're into landscapes and architecture in your travels, or you're travellig with the small sensor, because it won't be that "wide". Maybe using ultra wides would work well as you suggest, just make sure you can use your lenses on both cameras (I'm not sure if ultra wides designed for DX would work on Full Frame) I travelled for a while with DX format and my tokina 12-24, what a beauty to travell with !!!<br>

    Peace !</p>

    <p> Cano</p>

  2. <p> Well Down, first of all I liked your pic of the flower, and I have two questions, First of all, what are you photographing the most, just insects and flowers ? I hear ppl telling you the 50 or the 60 mm is too short, without even knowing you're up for little creatures or coins or what ?--- The second will be if you really need the 2.8 lens ? Because it costs a lot ! In case you're seriously getting into macro, and have money ok; in case you're not, I'd recommend other more versatile and cheap lens (you decide the focal) so you can even save money for a camera body upgrade later. <br>

    I may sound totally unconventional, but try an older <strong>Nikon 28-105mm f/3.5-4.5 AF-D</strong> lt can focus nicely, it's very cheap, has great sharpness and can get to 1:2 when you need it. I know it's not a "real" macro, but you're not photographing flat subjects are you ? The convinience of that lens is that it is a very good lens that can do it all. Just try it, it may work for you.</p>

    <p> Cano<br>

    </p>

  3. <p> As far as I know the D40 shares sensor with the D50, and bothe are 6.1MP. I have the D50. The D200 is the same sensor as the D80.<br>

    I guess for crop sensors, the 50 mm is fine, especially for someone with not much money and with a camera that requires motorized lenses to autofocus (of course U'd have to focus manually). If U could go for the more expensive lenses with built in motor, that could be great.<br>

    On the other side, longer optics could work fine, but it would be difficult and more expensive to find the ones that work with the D40's autofocus.<br>

    Peace</p>

  4. <p> As far as I know the D40 shares sensor with the D50, and bothe are 6.1MP. I have the D50. The D200 is the same sensor as the D80.<br>

    I guess for crop sensors, the 50 mm is fine, especially for someone with not much money and with a camera that requires motorized lenses to autofocus (of course U'd have to focus manually). If U could go for the more expensive lenses with built in motor, that could be great.<br>

    On the other side, longer optics could work fine, but it would be difficult and more expensive to find the ones that work with the D40's autofocus.<br>

    Peace</p>

  5. <p> I have that little marvel and love it !!! <br>

    I know it's only 6 MP but I don't need more, even to go beyond 8x10". I've printed 20x24" with no trouble and the little camera is just doing fine. I love how small and light it is compared to some other monsters. I've used it with big, fast glass and I can't get a better value for the money. It does great in low light, and performs well with all my nikon glass without the usual issues with the D40/D60...<br>

    I even heard nikon discontinued it when they realised it was a mistake to have such a nice and cheap thing that performs so well with even older lenses, so they kicked more megapixels in the D40 and made the D40x., then the D60, then the D5000. Not bad cameras, but since the old optics don't fit, their user is forced to buy the newer motorized glass at a newer price too... a good marketing trick !<br>

    Well, what to say ? Great camera, great price and an entry level thing that can deliver awesome pics in the right hands.</p>

    <p> </p>

  6. <p> Dear Mohammed, as Frank points out, in the D50 and most SLR cameras, using the green mode, the camera decides for you. Answering to your question "How can i force a flash shot while i am in the auto mode?" You can't, just because the auto mode does everything, without letting you decide.<br>

    I guess you should learn to shoot in P or A and learn how to ( and how not to) use the flash. That way you can use the flash and the features of the camera to your convenience.<br>

    Cano</p>

  7. <p> I sould consider getting an extra shoulder if U are going to be carryin all that equipment. LOL !</p>

    <p> Seriously, I'd get only 3 lenses and a digital body like a D50, D80 or something like that. U don't need more than 10 MP to go and to be honest, it's better to enjoy the place while travelling light.</p>

    <p> Cannis</p>

  8. <p> Hey, don't get so jumpy man, it seems like U got it personal. I also said</p>

    <blockquote>

    <p> "No meaning to offend or start war, but I guess what makes us better photographers is the ability to have exceptional pictures with ordinary gear instead of the other way around." </p>

    </blockquote>

    <p> So I guess the point is, Congrats for your new baby. YOU GOT IT, NOW LEARN HOW TO GET THE BEST RESULTS WITH IT. and that takes practice...</p>

    <p> </p>

  9. <p>Well, i have been reading this thread for half the day, and now I think I got the whole issue, so I got some thoughts. I think that Bela got misunderstood and I have only a few things to say...<br>

    1. As many of U pointed out, all lenses are prone to flare. The thing is that if all of them flare under some conditions we need to concentrate more in how to make my lenses work better (as Lex shows) and not trying to demonstrate that"my lens flares a lot".<br>

    2 Most wideangles and ultrawide angles (I have a sigma 10-20 myself) are not walkaround lenses, because of the distortion, the angle (logical) and because some of them are too fancy and expensiveto be the usual workhorse (trying to keep a low profile too).<br>

    3 It's better to try to learn how to use the toys than to have the nicest and most exotic toys. I mean, I can not start shooting with the most advanced and expensive gear without knowing how to use it !!! It seems like many of the questions here are like "what lens is better A or B ?" instead of " I have (or want) this lens... how can I get a better use of it, and what are the best advantages of it ?".<br>

    4 No meaning to offend or start war, but I guess what makes us better photographers is the ability to have exceptional pictures with ordinary gear instead of the other way around... Sorry I have no pictures available to show with my sigma 10-20 but I'm at the office.<br>

    Peace</p>

    <p> Cano</p>

  10. <p> Well, call me lucky or adventurous, but last December I travelled solo from Mexico to Panama. I 'd say Guatemala 's towns are very fotogenic, and I loved them. I did a lot of photography in there with no incidents (I avoided Guatemala City as much as i could). I have a small D50 but was always carrying some gear (sigma 10-20, 24-70 f 2.8, and 70-300) in my backpack. Being from Mexico, I speak spanish, but still people could tell I wasn't local because of my accent so I wanted to be safe with my equipment because it took me years of saving to get my stuff and I wouldn't replace it easily if it got stolen or broken.<br>

    I travel on a shoestring, so I had no other choice than chickenbuses. At first I was frightened to death, but I started to take it easy and try to keep an open mind. I don't really travel that much and that often, so I try to get as much as I can, but always kept my eyes and ears open. I guess Antigua and Chichi were very nice, as well as the places near Atitlan Lake. My best advise is to smile to locals and never took pictures without taking a quick look around and behind.<br>

    I travel with a waist bag to keep my camera near me all the times (always inside the bag), and my small (all black) backpack has a different place the lenses near the bottom, with a side opening, so it becomes like a double bottom bag. At the top I keep my stuff and a small windbreaker so the bottom of the pack is not visible. If I have to take a bus I'd sit with my backpack over the waistbag to make it "disapear". Finally, I'd say, the worst things we can do is to look all psyched up about our equipment. Act normally, but safe, take few but good pics, enjoy the places and smile. After all, the trip and the pictures are all worth it. If we can not do that, why are we travelling ?<br>

    Cano</p><div>00S6fm-105105784.jpg.55895a4da2cb616a52c82c7c430bfab1.jpg</div>

  11. As a man it's the same thing. Be confortable first, then do your job and then care about how U look. When I shoot weddings, I fix an interview with the couple first and among all the details we talk about, I tell them that I'm not there to party and look good, I just do my job. They pretty much get the point. I wear nice shoes (not the ones with leather but rubber soles), black jeans, dark shirt and matching tie. looks nice and it's confortable. I suggest unless U're at a very strict church, to never wear skirts.

     

     

     

     

    Regards.

  12. I have a D 50 and it's remarkably sharp. I know it's not a pro camera but if it gives great results with 8x10's for sure it's going to be fine with your needs. I'd go for better glass instead in the wide angle side (not a real need for portraits, but for general use) and a good tripoid. Good luck !
  13. Try an older third party lens. I got a second hand 180 SIGMA f 5.6 ) in Mexico for about 100 USD ( I know it's slow but for macro still lifes I use f 16 or smaller), and it's so a great piece of glass, inexpensive, light, sharp and with a great ratio. 1:2 with film, still better with digital... f 5.6 is not bad unless U want an ultra expensive 3.5 or 2.8. My 2 cents and greets from Mexico City.
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