doug_williams4

<p>Don,<br>

Thanks for the suggestions. I never thought of it but I think the music analogy is a good one.<br>

Doug</p>

<p>I have a later version 3.5f with the Planar lens. According to the repair man it has a 6 element lens. The other thing he told me was that the meter is difficult if not impossible to repair. So I would make sure that it is a later Planar version with a working meter. I have found that the meter works very well and is accurate once you learn how to use it.</p>

<p>This is really scary. I can see all kinds of possibilities for abuse by the police and governments not to mention my privacy. I really don't want to be tracked when I go shopping. At some point we are going to have to ask the question when are we in a public area and what rights to privacy do we have?</p>

<p>I tried to get it off the BBC website and it said that it was only available in the UK. To bad.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>I worked in a camera shop while at university and the Canon A-1 was just introduced. After the Canon rep finished giving us the demo I knew I had to have this camera. It wasn't until 25 years later that I finally got one. It was worth the wait.</p>

<p>Good point Colin.</p>

<p>Paulo, I was hoping you or someone else would say something like that. I agree that the image is what is most important and it matters little how you achieve getting what you want. One the other hand it is fun to use different cameras and processes and the joy of making the image is important also.</p>

<p>I would like to get back to the idea of film adding value. Do you think that it adds value because it is rare and more expensive to use or because the way one may use film is different than digital i.e. shooting less exposures?</p>

<p>Hasselblad did market a 35mm called the XPan and XPanII they were rebranded Fuji TX-1 and TX-2 cameras. These are no longer being produced but an interesting side note none the less.</p>

<p>Good point Gunnar, I too am surprised that Hasselblad has not been mentioned.</p>

<p>I have owned and used my Rolleiflex 3.5F for the last 36 years. The last time it was serviced was just before I purchased it. It works perfect except for the meter which I have to jiggle sometimes, it's been this way since I purchased it so I have always used a hand held meter. It is not the easiest camera to use but the quality makes using it a joy. It doesn't need a battery for the meter. The other camera I purchased at about the same time and finally gave up the ghost 4 years ago was a Canon TL QL. I purchased it when I started college and it was my workhorse camera for almost 30 years. I purchased an A-1 instead of repairing the TL QL.</p>

 

<p>Not bad ma fan. I took a look at the Sotheby's web site and found a similar auction. They were using a white background and I could see the shadow you were talking about. I think this would be easier on white if you can use it. I have been able to get similar lighting using natural light. The main light (either big window or open garage door) comes from the left at a 45 or 90 degree angle and I use just a reflector on the opposite side to even out the light without blowing out the shadow. You may be using to much lighting when less may work better. I only work with natural light so I am afraid I am only of limited help. Maybe use one large light on one side and just a reflector or much smaller light on the other so that you retain more of the shadow. I am not an expert in the studio but I hope this helps.<br>

By the way Louis, when I was in college I worked as an intern at Sotheby's in LA and we did not use professional photographers exclusively, more ofter than not I or someone else had to take pictures using very simple lighting.</p>

<p>For me the most important thing is to have even light so that the piece can be seen. People will not bid on things they can't see so don't get to creative. This is still catalog work.</p>

<p>I began by shooting in museums and galleries with an old Canon SLR 36 years ago, and my advice would be the same now. The most important thing is to hold the camera still, if you can't use a tripod use your viewfinder and brace the camera against your face, and firmly hold the camera still by setting your arms against your body and hold your breath when you shoot. This is very similar to shooting a rifle. </p>

Window reflection of MLK Library Washington DC<div></div>

<p>As you can see I was having problems getting my photo. I am using a Mac and tried to move the resized image from my desktop to the posting. Any help would be appreciated.</p>

<p>This was taken with a Rolleiflex 3.5F with Provia 100F film and scanned with a CanoScan 8800F (I guess I am one of the few that uses a Canon scanner). This is of the door of the Carlotta Fire Department in Northern California. As you can see they don't get many fires.</p>

 

 

file://localhost/Users/dougwilliams/Desktop/Carlotta%20FD%20Door.jpg

 

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<p>Bottom line is she is a public figure, if she didn't what to have her life photographed she should have married someone else. </p>

<p>Thanks for the correction Simon. Sometimes I don't know if I am in Athens or Rome. There is a very good Nova TV program on PBS that goes into an excellent explanation of how the Golden Rule is applied to the design of the Pantheon. I agree that the Greek mathematicians would be horrified. </p>

<p>I look at this in a more academic way. Performance art is music, dance, drama, street performance, or Performance Art that an artist performs. These are recorded and the recorded piece is art but not the performance itself. Because the print is permanent, even though it can be changed, it is not like a performance than can only be experienced once.</p>

<p>Well you can blame it on the Italian Renaissance when Greek mathematics, "The Golden Rule" or "Rule of Thirds", and the development of perspective, making a picture appear to have space, were developed. Most of the rules come from this period when modern painting started. Before that compositions were more centered and the pictures were flat. Does this matter? Just ask yourself if you like the Pantheon and does the design appear pleasing? It's design is entirely based on "The Golden Rule". Does this come naturally? I think so as some people have an eye for composition and do this without thinking. </p>

<p>Thanks everyone, it looks like if I want to use a 4/3 camera I would be better off going with a new M4/3 body or look into the NEX. The info about the focal distance Philip, this may be the reason I am having such a problem finding an adaptor. </p>

<p>I looked at the archives and could only find information on M4/3 converters. Does anyone have any experience using FD lenses on a 4/3 camera? I have a Panasonic DMC L-1 and would like to use my collection of FD lenses as back up, I have a 50mm f.1.4, 24mm, 135mm and an old 200mm. Image quality is very important to me so using a converter that degrades the image is counter productive. Any ideas? <br>

Thanks,<br>

Doug</p>

 

<p>I have had my FD cameras for over 30 years I got a TL QL which needs repair and an A-1 which is in excellent shape. I would not bother to fix the TL but the A-1 maybe. Neither have ever been repaired or serviced. I would agree that the only one that makes economic sence to fix is the F-1. One other thing to worry about is the increase cost of film and processing which may make using film an expensive labor of love.</p>