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barb_white

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Posts posted by barb_white

  1. <p>thank you Howard - I knew you could do that if you started with a jpeg and saved it in iPhoto, but I usually save it elsewhere and leave the original in iPhoto - I started a folder on my hard drive where I save a psd and jpg of each photo after I work on it in RAW. This leads to multiple copies of my photos (takes up a lot of space!) - however, when I re-open the original from iPhoto again, it opens with the changes I made the first time I processed it. I'll try reverting to original to see what happens.</p>
  2. <p>thanks so much - I think part of the problem then is that I have a Mac and I really like iPhoto for storage so I open from iPhoto - for some odd reason I cannot access a photo from iPhoto directly through Bridge (or I just don't understand Bridge because I haven't used it much). Another one of those annoying things, so I've recently decided to just upload photos to Bridge and learn to like it. <br>

    Thanks again, this is very helpful! This is the 2nd and 3rd time someone recommended Real World Camera Raw so I guess I should get it. :-)</p>

    <p>Barb</p>

  3. <p>I started shooting in the RAW format about 9 months ago and as I learn more, I sometimes want to go back and reprocess a photo that didn't turn out as well as I'd like. How do you open a photo in Camera RAW and "start over?" Do you have to manually change everything back or is there a "one click" way to bring the photo back to the way it was shot? I know the original file is preserved but I don't know how to start fresh with the original image. I also recently upgraded to CS4 so there is a lot more to work with than was in the Elements Camera RAW workspace. I'd also love to know what books you might recommend for learning more about processing photos in CS4's Camera RAW.<br>

    Thanks for any feedback you can give me! </p>

  4. <p>thank you both for your replies. I may be fooling myself shooting in Manual mode. What have I been doing all these months, making sure the exposure level indicator is centered? Wow - I need to play around more. I'm taking a class again this summer so I will learn about Manual mode and spot metering. My previous camera did not have spot metering, so now I can play with that feature and can do as you suggested, Puppy Face.</p>

    <p>Thank you, Bob! I checked and I do have it set to 1/2 stop. I changed it to 1/3 stops and that appears to have corrected the problem. </p>

  5. <p>I recently purchased the Canon Rebel T1i - I think it's a great camera so far, however, I'm frustrated with the exposure level indicator - rather than a single bar, there is usually a double bar that moves back and forth to just under perfect exposure or just above perfect exposure as I'm holding down the shutter button. I'm shooting in manual but when I change aperture or shutter speed, it still moves back and forth, but rarely stops in the middle. When the exposure is as it should be, there is a single bar that stops in the middle, however it doesn't go to the center very often so my photos are being taken at slightly under exposed or over exposed. What's the deal with the double bar and why is my exposure more often than not either under or above the center exposure level? Is there a setting in the camera I can change? It's frustrating the heck out of me. My Rebel 300D did not do this. I hope I explained this well enough. <br>

    Thanks for any help you can give me. I may be calling Canon tomorrow - this just doesn't seem right to me.</p>

  6. <p>hi Hana - I'm curious if you've made your purchase yet? I just upgraded from the 350D Rebel to the T1i and I love it. I bought the 350D used 4 years ago and it's been a great camera but I needed to upgrade - I was frustrated with the 1" LCD screen, especially since I need reading glasses now! The T1i's screen is amazing, you can see it in daylight and I can shoot without my glasses because it's so large and bright - I did make one video and it turned out pretty well. That was not a major factor for me though, as I have the S5IS that takes video. I debated getting a 40D or 50D but decided to stick with the smaller body for its weight. It does take RAW files and also has a RAW + jpg mode. One thing I am frustrated with is that neither Adobe Elements nor iPhoto recognize the RAW files so I had to get the Adobe dng converter until they come out with a plug in for Elements. There is a Camera RAW plug in already available for CS3 and CS4 though. Not sure if or when iPhoto will have an upgrade to recognize the new RAW files. I hope they do. </p>
  7. Dan, thanks for the recommendations - I called a local camera shop this morning and he charges $38. It seems like it's not a big deal but if you guys are a bit intimidated by it, then I guess I should be, too. My manual says not to use a brush blower.

     

    Flickr is very nice, your photos are excellent - I was looking at them last week. It has a really nice slideshow feature compared to Webshots. I get very frustrated with Webshots occasionally, but I like the community they have there, and they have weekly photo challenges that I enjoy. But I'll check into using Flickr as well.

     

    I will also look at the filters you recommended. thanks!

  8. I got my new 24-105L lens and went out to play with it today - I noticed some

    spots on my photos (not all of them but several) that I'm wondering about - is

    this a scratch on the lens, or dirt on the lens or something else in my camera

    that needs to be cleaned? My sensor? Mind you I was just playing, so these

    aren't the greatest photos subject wise - but these two photos are nearly

    identical (first one taken 1/400 shutter speed, F10, second one F11) - but the

    first photo has very, very faint half moon mark just above and to the left of

    the last buoy on the right and the second photo it's very noticeable (if you see

    them in full size - click on the + sign) - also there are four smudges up in the

    upper right corner. Help please? I'd really appreciate it. How could this be?

    Two photos taken back to back - one f stop higher on the 2nd, plus I probably

    refocused.

     

    http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2677888120101908715PVIrGl

     

    Barb

     

    P.S. Haven't gotten a filter yet - is it absolutely necessary if for no other

    reason than protecting the lens? I was thinking I might just get the Tiffen Haze-1

  9. Hi Mark, thanks for your comments. I'm not too worried about 28mm not being very wide as I don't often shoot at that length anyway. I'm always more happy zooming in. I'm not expecting to get much if any improvement for concerts, however, I have gotten some awesome shots with my 75-300mm lens, even with 5.6 aperture. I took this shot with it, and several others in this album.

     

    http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2557721910101908715oBLCSl

     

    I was actually quite shocked to get some of the photos that I did with that lens. I think I just got lucky. The lighting was pretty good, and most concerts don't have that kind of lighting. But I wont get my hopes up that I'll get anything like it with this lens. I still plan to buy the 100mm F2.0 in the future if I decide I need it.

     

    I ordered the lens Wednesday from Adorama, so I'll come back and let you know how I like it. I think I'm going to love it!

  10. you're right, Mark, I really haven't said what I do with my photography - one of my favorite things is concert photography, however, it's just for my own pleasure and occasionally an artist will like my photos and put them on their website. I did have one photo published in a jazz fest magazine. But mainly, I do nature photography and play around with macro shots of flowers, love taking sunset photos, and of course the occasional family gathering. I'm taking a nature photography class this summer because I've been yearning to challenge myself.

     

    I have finally settled on getting the Canon 24-105L F4.0 lens and am just shopping around for the right price. I've found it for $1059 at both Adorama and B&H - did an online search and found it for much cheaper at some scam places - so glad I checked into them before proceeding. I'm also still debating just buying it at a local Seattle photography shop to keep my money local. There's one on Ebay for $975.00, but a bit reluctant to do that, too. What do you guys recommend?

  11. I will keep the 100mm 2.0 in my sight for future purchase, and for right now I think I need to choose between the EFS 17-55mm F2.8 or the L series 24-105mm F4.0 - I'm thinking since I have the 50mm and am missing the 35-105mm that I should go with the 24-105mm but am just a bit concerned that it's only an F4.0. I need to sleep on it. What to do, what to do! I'm asking myself, what IS the right lens for the majority of my shooting?

     

    thanks so much for all of your input and suggestions. I've learned a few things (never heard of the 1.6x crop factor before - interesting). I love photography, but don't really understand the workings of the camera as much as I'd like, so that was very helpful. I just take my photos and my ego always wants them to be better, sharper, etc.

  12. thanks so much for all your responses, now I'm even more confused. LOL It looks like the EF-S 17-55mm f/2.8 IS USM may be the way to go after reading reviews on it and its comparison to the L series 24-70mm. As far as sharpness goes, I took the photo below with my 75-300mm zoom - great shot, but not very sharp. I can only get one lens right now, so I'll have to wait to get either the 85mm or 100mm for concerts. But if this shot could be sharper, I would ecstatic. The artist was impressed enough when he saw my photos to request putting some of them on his website. Somehow this pic never made it to the site, which is too bad - it's my favorite

     

    http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2166813600101908715LzCeUL

     

    Feel free to look at the whole album starting here:

     

    http://good-times.webshots.com/album/560172802Xqalnc

     

    I just read a review on here of the 100mm by Steve Mirarchi - I may actually be able to get the two lenses after seeing the price and his review has me convinced that's the lens I should get for concerts.

  13. hello everyone - I have been wanting to add another lens to my collection and am

    not sure what to do. I currently have a Canon EOS Digital Rebel that I bought

    in 2005 - it came with an EFS 18-55 that I'm not too impressed with, I don't use

    it much. I don't think it's very sharp. I have a 50mm 1.8 and 75-300mm 4-5.6

    that is a great lens though of course not very fast. I broke my 35-105mm a

    while ago. It came with my Canon film Rebel that I bought in 1991.

     

    So.... I was thinking of getting an L series zoom, but have decided to be more

    practical. however, I have the same hope that most photographers have - I want

    sharper photos. I am looking at either a EF 28-135mm f3.5-5.6 IS USM to replace

    the broken 35-105mm, or one of those 100mm or 85mm that I see some people raving

    about on here. What would be your suggestion? I do some concert photography,

    though not a lot.

     

    Has anyone bought lenses/cameras at Costco? I sometimes wonder if Costco

    doesn't get slightly defective product.

     

    Thanks for your input, I'm hoping to decide in the next few days.

     

    Barb

  14. I know a man who does a lot of concerts and he uses a fast 100 mm lens often. I also take photos at a lot of concerts and have used my 70-300mm and am looking for another lens to use - I have the 50 mm but I don't use it at concerts because I love to zoom in for extreme close ups like this one:

     

    http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2557721910101908715oBLCSl

     

    it's not very sharp at full size, but I love the shot and expression on his face. I am still debating what to do as far as what lens to add to my collection. The L series lenses are a bit out of my price range right now. You can rent them for not a bad price if you want to try it out. That's what I plan to do for my next concert.

     

    Good luck with the internship, sounds like an awesome opportunity.

     

    Barb

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