dpassmore

<p>Have you loaded the latest firmware? I recall that a later version fixed some lens communication problems giving Err99.</p>

<p>There is the 200mm f2.8 L that may be within your budget. </p>

<p>I have used the 70-200 f4 non-IS for the last 1.5 years with no problems on my 40D. Love it! I shoot mostly my kids soccer and hockey games and love it for the fast focus and sharpness even at f4. </p>

<p>I am considering getting the 85 f1.8 or 100 f2 to supplement the zoom for the indoor hockey where the f4 is slightly limiting my shutter speed, and for nice portrait type shots. Those 2 primes are relatively inexpensive and have great reviews. Both are USM and similar build.</p>

<p>You said you tried your existing lens at f8 and you weren't getting sharp photos - perhaps the f4 constant aperture would help that by increasing your shutter speed 4x (2 stops) to get the crisp pics.</p>

<p>I would keep your existing zoom and supplement it with a 85 or 100 mm prime for the times when you need the higher SS in darker locations.</p>

<p>Other option is to look at a third-party lens like Sigma, with their HSM, keeping up with sports shouldn't be too difficult and cost could be more in line with your budget. I've contemplated their 50-150mm f2.8 zoom a couple times but always wonder about the front/back focus issues lots of people complain about.</p>

<p>Like Jos said, Canon and Nikon don't feel the need to bring out a camera with in-body stabilization until they start loosing sales. I'm sure they both have the technology sitting on a shelf waiting for the right time. Just like Canon has a 50MP sensor on the shelf ready to go in the 1Ds MarkV ;)</p>

<p>Canon could easily implement an in-body stabilization feature that would automatically turn off when it sensed a stabilized lens was attached. The two systems cannot co-exist simultaneously as one would counter-act the other.</p>

<p>No matter what others say, I would love stabilization on my 50mm prime!</p>

<p>Hi Ramunas,</p>

<p>I use a crop camera myself so have no personal experience with full frame, but from what I understand:</p>

<p>Canon crop is 1.6x. So, taking the 10-22mm lens as an example, 10x1.6=16 and 22x1.6=35, so the field of view of the 10-22mm lens on your crop camera will be exactly the same as the 16-35mm lens on a full frame camera. You will see no difference between 10mm on your 350D and 16mm on the 5DMII.</p>

<p>BTW, the 16-35mm lens is f/2.8 whereas the 17-40 is f/4.0, that is the main reason why the huge price differential between the two.</p>

 

<p>I think your questions have been answered, but to reiterate and throw in my 2 cents: I would get option #2 if those are your only choices. I use a 40D and love it but it does not produce "significantly" better IQ than the XSi - I chose it mainly for the better handling and speed. The reason then for recommending the XSi option is because of the lenses included in the kits. The 28-135mm is just not wide enough for landscape and interior architecture shots. Most of these shots are taken in the 15-25mm range on a cropped sensor camera.</p>

<p>Your second question regarding disabling the flash, if you use P, Av, Tv, or M modes, the flash will not fire unless you manually pop it up. As suggested, if you've been using Auto or the Basic zone settings, you need to move into the Creative side. Start by using P mode, then graduate into Av and Tv once you get a better understanding of how aperture, shutter speed and ISO are related to getting the proper exposure and depth of field you are looking for.</p>

<p>Again, as stated, the best lens generally for landscapes and architecture is one in the10-24mm range - either the Canon 10-22 or Sigma 10-22 are given high marks in a lot of reviews (I don't own either).</p>

I own the 70-200 and love every photo I take with it. It is sharp with good colour, contrast, and bokeh. It's focus is fast and silent - great in AI Servo for shots of the always moving kids.

 

I've never used any of the other telephoto lenses mentioned but from the reviews it seems you can't really go wrong with any of the 3 (55-250, 70-200 or 70-300). For your vacation, you may want to consider the white lens factor and the attention it attracts - in that regard, the 55-250 would be the better choice for travel in crowded places.

 

IMO, the 70-200 would be the best choice if you want to freeze subject movement and for long portraits (constant aperture and fast focusing), however the 55-250 and 70-300 both have IS with the differences between the 2 being the better build quality and full frame capability of the 70-300 if a future upgrade in camera body is forseen.

 

In summary, your choice is a difficult one, but I'm sure you will enjoy any of these lenses. Like someone else mentioned, maybe you should wait and see if the new 18-200 is available before your trip and only take the one lens.

In the first pic, the model's torso looks nice and sharp, so perhaps that is where the camera focused on (centre

focus point used?). Then with f/4 the depth of field is maybe small enough to put her feet and head slightly out

of focus. Her right leg (the one on the left in the pic) is soft - looks like the model moved during the

relatively slow 1/15 sec. shutter speed.

 

I do like the location with the lighted stairs and that light shining upwards onto her legs. I would echo some

of the other posters comments and try shooting on a tripod, at a faster shutter speed(1/200 or 1/250 to sync

flash, or 1/125 without flash), and close the lens down to f/8 or f/11. This of course means either bumping the

ISO or more light. Doing this would also eliminate some of the soft corners inherent in most wide angle zooms.

 

Overall, I like the pics.

The 17-85 is an OK walk-around, get-you-started lens - especially with the kit. I got the same kit to start and it has work fine for me - got some good pics. I agree the lens is pricey if bought seperately, but I think a good deal in the kit. A lot of reviews of the lens mention it downsides (CA, distortion at 17mm) but if you shoot RAW and use the latest version of DPP for processing, those can be eliminated/minimized. Couple the kit with the excellent bang for the buck 70-200 f4 (non-IS) for a great starter package and double your rebate! (at least in Canada) I do wish for a faster lens but you get what you can within your budget - especially if you aren't making money with your camera.

I have just recently purchased my first dslr and debated between XSi (450D) and 40D. IQ and button pushing was a wash to me personally so the only criteria was hands-on ergonomics (considered the rebel only because of lower $). After holding the XSi for 10 min in the store my hand was already starting to cramp (I'm 6'1" - larger hands). Thought I'd try it with the grip - hated it! It feels great in the portrait position but terrible horizontal (normal).

 

In the end I chose the 40D due to comfort holding it for long periods of time, and rebates on right now made the decision easier. I did not get a grip at this time.

 

I don't think there is that much difference between the 450D and 400D in terms of size.

 

Just my 2c.