jerry_schuler

<p>After thinking some more. The museum security would probably classify that as a monopod. I'll have to come up with something else.</p>

<p>Apparently, because of the length of my neck, McNally’s DaGrip was problems for me. So, experimenting, I came up with a solution for DaGrip that seems to work. I put an old ball head tripod head on the bottom of my camera. Now I can rest/press the camera on my shoulder. I have yet to see if this will pass museum security as acceptable. ps. Those aren't scratches on my LCD. Thats a rubbery screen screen protector.</p><div></div>

<p>I just watched the "Joe McNally - Da Grip" video in the links that Robert K. provided. That has done wonders for me instantly. Using the left eye, holding the camera from underneath wtih the left arm and pressing the left arm against the body. Resting the camera against my left shoulder. But my neck must me longer than Joe McNally's, I had to put a pad between my shoulder and camera to support the camera with my shoulder. <em>I wonder if they allow shoulder pads in museums?</em> A 1/4 second exposure now seems about as good as my 1/60 sec exposure right eyed and holding the camera in front of me. I may amend this statement after more experience. I thought it not possible. Thank you.</p>

<p>Do you have any other photos we can screw up?</p>

<p>Bob, I was using my AIS lenses because I could do a F2.8 with them. I have to experment to see what is better in low light F2.8 AIS or F4 or F5 VR Lens. Here's my submission of Ryan's Photo with a bit of Photoshop applied to it.</p><div></div>

<p>James, Your better off buying a new lens. You will anyway after you throw those extension tubes in the trash. That's what I did.</p>

<p>One solution for those of us without D700 or D3s is underexpose and then fix it in photoshop. It's not the best solution but in a dark museum that's about all I can come up with other than trying to be walking tripod. The before and afters photos are below. D60 MicroNikkor F2.8 1/60 sec ISO 800. I might add, that I'm not one to spend $10,000 for equpment to take photos of things like this.</p><div></div>

<p>Ok Bob, How do you hold a camera still for 1/8 second with out camera shake? I only confident at 1/60th of a second.</p>

<p>I took this photo at the Minneapolis Art Institute. They did not allow me to use my monopod with out a permit. Tripods and monopods are the same thing to them. Odd, I can get a tripod permit and they say it takes about 3 days to get approved. And I must put a specific time and date to be there. But that hardly seemed worth the effort for monopod. Does anybody have some insight into the mentality of museum security? Do they do criminal checks for people with tripods or monopods and put into a database of known monopod felons? Are they afraid somebody might get a good picture of their displays? Will they outlaw high ISO cameras in museums someday? Anyway, I used my Nikkor-Micro 55mm AIS at f2.8 and 1/60^th of sec. ISO 800. That’s about as longest shutter speed I can do with out camera shake. The images I got were underexposed but I photoshopped some light into them.</p>

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<p>After thinking some more, on objects a bit bigger than what we consider macro, I use my 18-105 VR. Minimum focus is 12 inches through out the zoom range. It's sharp.</p>

<p>I do a lot of product orientated macro shots. The best and easiest I've found is using a Coolpix 990 or 4500. The optics and images from these cameras a superb. And you have your depth of field. They are still available on eBay for a couple of hundred of dollars or less. I think Nikon quite making these cameras because nobody wanted to spend over $1000.00 for a point and shoot.</p>

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Geese gathering for their migration in a Minneapolis city lake.<div></div>

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<p><em>So you can use a non-DX lens on a DX sensor Nikon, but you have to remember to multiply the stated lens focal lengths by 1.5X so you know the true working focal length in effect when you take pictures. But since a DX lens is designed up front to match a DX sensor, you don’t have to do mental gymnastics. The focal length stated on the lens is in fact what you should see when you use it on a DX sensor camera But since a DX lens is designed up front to match a DX sensor, you don’t have to do mental gymnastics. The focal length stated on the lens is in fact what you should see when you use it on a DX sensor camera.</em><br /><br />Who gives a damn? I prefer to take the ZEN approach. What I see in the viewfinder when composing my shot is what I get.</p>

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<p>"It is a communist country but that does not means they will rob you or kill you"</p>

<p>A number of years ago I recall the Premier of one the communist country coming to Washington D.C. and making a public speech. That's exactly what he said he was going to do to us.</p>

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I've wanted to show somebody this dive bombing buzzard but I got him

out of focus.<div></div>

Some of the magic of digital is that you can fix most anything with editing software.<div></div>

Wouter, I was being kind about the temperture readout. I've read a number of posts where the people (I won't mention who) were explaining the diffuculties of adjusting white balance in a jpg. It was obvious that they didn't know where the white balance adjustment was in the program. They were jerking around with red green blue color curves trying to fix the white balance.