djolk

<p>I have great memories of a place called Meer's island I think. Find someone with a boat, and they can take you to Meer's Island, or whatever its called. It was 10 + years ago, but if Meer's island doesn't make sense to anyone there was a tree on this island called the hanging garden tree. Its one of the smaller islands in the Bay that didn't get logged. Ever. Its muddy, there is a board walk and a hiking trail, but well worth the adventure.</p>

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<p>I love my Bronica! I don't use it much, because its so expensive for me to get film developed - even to the point where I think about selling it, but when I use it I want to keep it.<br /><br />What's the difference between the SQ-A and SQ-Ai?</p>

<p>Without having used the Tamaron lens - I really recommend the Nikkor 105 AF-S. Its the lens most often on my camera... I quite enjoy the focal length on a DX body as a walk around lens - though it takes a bit of getting used to. I've also found it quite useful for shooting moving things (its fast enough, though AF is not speediest - but again you can compensate) particularly inside small rooms. I train dogs and our indoor, winter space is not that large so this lens is the perfect focal length to get tight face and dog shots without getting too close. <br>

Its also wonderfully sharp, and macro is fun - but what was said before, a tripod is very handy, one thing to consider depending on what you are shooting - I often have the camera hanging upside off the bottom of the tripod (reverse the centre post) for macro work of small things on the ground...</p>

<p>Maybe incremental improvements to existing models. I am not sure who the poster was but it makes no sense (from a marketing/economics perspective) for Nikon to increase the buffer of the D7100, or improve the AF of the D610. It seems like Nikon doesn't want to compete with itself anymore.<br /><br />I have a D7100, don't get me wrong, it would be nice to have a few more shots in the buffer, but other then that I can't see this Camera needing to do anymore then it does for awhile (for me - I don't shoot video...). Its my thought that Nikon, and Canon, and whoever else have almost gotten themselves into this place where they can't keep making new cameras that are 'better enough' to justify new models so frequently - and maybe they will need to change their release model, but then they will need to make cameras that last longer...</p>

<p>D7100 is cheaper, has better AF, way better AF coverage, gives you a bit more reach (sort of).<br>

D610 is full frame, better in low light (how much I don't know - never used one) you can go wider, with shallower DOF. Full frame lenses are more expensive...</p>

<p>Get the D7100 if you want to shoot things that move in OK light, from far away. Get the D610 if you want to use wide angles, or shoot in lower light, or want to spend more money, or having a full frame sensor is important to you.</p>

<p>I switched from a D7000, to a D7100 almost as soon as the D7100 became available. I am not sure I notice a lot of difference in sharpness. Maybe if I look really hard, but then again maybe that's because I am looking so hard. I do notice differences with AF, card write speed, locking mode dial, and AUTO iso controls. I would say upgrade if things like that are important to you...</p>

<p>I have used Photorec pretty successfully in a similar circumstance. It really depends on how the camera formatted the card. Generally its a 'soft' format and the date is still there..</p>

<p>Darktable? Its open source and runs on *nix...</p>

<p>Can you get non-Nikon EN-EL15s? How many shots are you planning on taking on this trip? Maybe you can get by on EN-EL15s, save buying the grip. However, the grip is nice if you take vertical shots...</p>

<p>Does it work if you don't fiddle with AF fine tune?</p>

<p>My feeling is if you aren't sure, you don't need a d800. The d610 (or even d600) will save you a ton of money and you likely won't notice the difference.</p>

<p>I live Whitehorse, Yukon, which experiences approximately the same light levels as mainland AK. I think you will be surprised - the period of day when the sun does shine has some of the nicest light of the year, dawn and dusk are incredibly long as well, so you have quite the window for sunrise/sunset shots. Northern Lights are fairly hit or miss. There are a couple websites that post predictions, there is also a Whitehorse Aurora' watchers facebook page, where people will update when and where they are seeing the Aurora. There should be something like this for the AK as well.<br>

Staying in mountainous, deep valleys is really going to further limit your light, also with the sun so low, light conditions change fast, a magically light shot can wander into deep shadows really fast. So don't wait!</p>

<p>I'm pretty on top of most of my camera settings. However there are a couple things that I do. Like previously mentioned, have a 'rest position' and get in to the habit of returning the camera to that state. Custom settings banks are great for this but there are couple things that aren't affected (on my D7100), by changing the U1/U2 settings. There is an option to save camera settings, in addition to custom settings, that includes less dynamic settings which you can quickly return to with a two button reset, and from that point adjust from there.</p>

<p>I hardly ever change metering mode, but it depends on your camera, my D7100 is fairly adept at adapting its meter to most situations, particularly if I use the dynamic AF modes - it will bias its meter based on on whats under the AF point I've selected. I think the message here is learning to really understand what your camera can do for you, how well it can do that, and understanding what you need to change. Definitely use a checklist if you need to though! </p>

<p>The other habit that is helpful for me is using the info screen, which displays most of the information you are considering in your checklist.</p>

<p>Depth of field is pretty narrow at F2.2. How does it work out with larger apertures?</p>

<p>I have an SB-600 - if you can find you one, as Ryan mentioned, used its a good flash for not too much money. What about the SB400 (or whatever it has been replaced with...)?</p>

<p>Where did you do your research? I'm not really well versed in the world of MF, but I know that it is hard enough to find a 6x6 or 645 with autofocus and/or AE that is usable and not exceedingly expensive, much less the larger formats. Just learn to take pictures without it...</p>

<p>I've got a few favourites - the 105 AF-S VR macro lens, I bought this lens to do macro work and discovered that I really like to shoot at this focal length. Also, my 300mm f4 af-d, I bought a barely used version for 700 dollars, I just can't believe the value in this lens. Great tele, well built, fairly light and small for its focal length...</p>

<p>I also have a Zenza PS 110 macro for my Bronica that I love, and don't use often enough.</p>

<p>I've used a Nikon D80, D7000, and D7100 at -40C. I live in Whitehorse, Yukon, so we get those kinds of temperatures every winter. I generally just use a pair of wool liner gloves to handle the camera, take on and off my over gloves a lot. I must say the plastic bodied D80 was the most comfortable to hold in the cold.<br /><br />I've never worried too, too much about the camera and the cold. I leave them in my car, I've winter camped with them and they don't seem to be bothered by freezing. I just take the batteries out when I am not using and as mentioned before, you have to watch for condensation going from temperature extremes. I doubt its that bad for the camera, you just can't take pictures for a bit.</p>

<p>These temperatures are outside the specified operating temperatures, so you might not get your warranty, and things do get brittle...<br /><br />I have had more problems with tripods in the cold, then cameras.</p>

<p>I also use AF-C, and 9 or 21 point AF, I'm using a d7100.</p>

<p>Anyone ever had any success with the new 3d mode?</p>

<p>I'm going to use it with Canon lenses - I am sure canon lens compatibility is going to be a feature.</p>

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<p>What's more, if a little independently designed RAW processor like GIMP's UFRAW plugin can manage to open <em>all</em> RAW formats without any issue, then why can't expensive commercial software be more universal?</p>

 

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<p>I believe its because these pieces of software don't apply processing information from the camera - ie if you have your camera set to take raw files, but with vivid picture control, you still get a very neutral raw file. I do at least, using any of the open source tools. I think the thing is, raw files are just a bunch of information, there's no reason expensive proprietary software can't open them, they just can't be opened the way people expect them to be, and Nikon (and everyone else) is weirdly possessive of their proprietary stuff.</p>

<p>If you are going to use UV filters to protect your lens, don't be tempted to buy cheap ones. I do occasionally leave UV filters on to protect lenses - i often leave my camera on the seat of a dusty work truck for days and days, or have it out in the snow, or stick it in silly places, and UV filters are a bit of an assurance. But there is no sense putting an inferior piece of glass, that all light in an image transfers through, in front of your nice lens. The last UV filter I bought cost me $160.</p>

<p>I second Wouter's unsolicited advice - 50mm is a bit long on an APS-C camera. If you like that, go for it, but make sure you think about it first.</p>

<p>I'm happy I upgraded. Not sure if it was entirely necessary, but the d7100 has features that made it just attractive enough.</p>

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<p><br /><br />The D7100 is a pixel upgrade, not a performance upgrade. If you want performance you should be looking at another model in another system, like Canon's 7D or the promisingly-spec'd new Pentax K-3.</p>

 

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<p>When I decided to buy a d7100 I could take or leave the additional pixels, and the missing AA filter. I like them now. I like the pictures I take with the d7100 a lot more then the d7000, though maybe I am subconsciously trying to justify NAS, and there is no difference. What really attracted me to the d7100 was the autofocus system, which is in my mind is worth the upgrade - if you need it. I also really like the lock button on the mode switch, finer grained Auto-ISO controls and a few other small things. <br /><br />The buffer is still small, fast cards help - there have been dozens of threads about this, I shoot with San Disk Extreme Pros or whatever and I don't run into it too often. <br /><br />No regrets, but is it worth it? I can't really answer that for you.</p>

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<p>That one is actually very easy. Just permanently glue to the top of the D7100's viewfinder shut so that the flash cannot pop up, and then you change the label on the AF-L/AE-L button to AF-On and only use it for AF-On. The hitch is that you lose the AF-L function.</p>

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<p><br />I was actually thinking I could saw the whole thing off? I don't actually own any PC lenses, but I imagine it probably gets in their way...<br /><br /></p>

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<p>I don't recall using the pop-up flash even once on the two D7100 I have used, but as they say, we all use perhaps 10% of the functions on each camera body; the problem is that everybody uses a different 10%. (Please don't take the 10% figure literally.)</p>

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<p>My post was mostly sarcastic - these are things that I would like to see in a camera, but I don't really expect Nikon to cater to my exact needs. Or for that matter, maintaining product niches through perpetuity..</p>

<p>Oh gosh another one of THESE threads...<br /><br />I want a d7100 without a pop-up flash, and an AF-ON button.</p>