zaakiy_siddiqui

Agree with you Mark, or any kind of manipulation for that matter. Looking at Bruce's second link, there seems to be more colour noise in 12 bit than there is in 14 bit.

If you have ever tried making corrections to closely cropped pics (i.e., meaning that colour noise artifacts are showing) that you will understand that every bit of extra "pure" pixel colour and lighting will help in creating a better result.

See <a

hre="http://www.bythom.com/nikond300review.htm">http://www.bythom.com/nikond300review.htm</a>.<br/><br/>

Quote below:<br/><br/>

Even with my trained eyes it took me awhile before I could consistently see the modest difference 14-bit makes....

Same

answer: for most of you, no, it doesn't matter. If you're really trying to get "optimal data" then you'll not shoot

Compressed NEF nor 12-bit.

Odd that you can only upload jpegs, in that case save as highest quality jpegs in photoshop.

Experiment with uploading png, it might just work!

Stacey, you will lose the benefits of PNG and will see the compression artifacts of JPG.

Garrison, PNG is different to DNG. DNG is adobe raw (I believe), which is not natively compatible with all browsers across all platforms, whereas PNG is.

PNG file format beats both JPG and GIF. PNG is readable by all browsers on all platforms.

It is not lossy compression like JPG, and does not skimp on colours like GIF does.

To summarise: (1) it compresses decently; (2) it retains all colours; and (3) it uses lossless compression so that your text doesn't end up looking "mushy".

I'm having the same problem, so I plan to archive my Large JPG & RAW images to DVD, and store small JPGs

copies (<1MB) on my hard disk.<br/><br/>

Photoshop does this well in File > Automate > Batch (it might be different depending on your version of

Photoshop).<br/><br/>

I am also thinking of buying this portable drive (along with a 320GB hard drive) so that when I am travelling, I dont

have to use my notebook as the primary storage, and can use it for direct backups:<br/>

<a href="http://www.hyperdrive.com/HyperDrive-COLORSPACE-O-Casing-Only-p/hdcso-

000.htm">http://www.hyperdrive.com/HyperDrive-COLORSPACE-O-Casing-Only-p/hdcso-000.htm</a><br/><br/>

It supoprts the following RAW formats also:<br/>

<a href="http://www.hyperdrive.com/HyperDrive-COLORSPACE-O-Supported-RAW-Formats-

s/46.htm">http://www.hyperdrive.com/HyperDrive-COLORSPACE-O-Supported-RAW-Formats-

s/46.htm</a><br/><br/>

Also recommended elsewhere on Photo.net:<br/>

<a href="http://www.photo.net/digital-darkroom-forum/00PzTe">http://www.photo.net/digital-darkroom-

forum/00PzTe</a><br/><br/>

Whatever you do, make sure you store 2 copies of every original in 2 separate locations in case something goes

wrong.<br/><br/>

Also, when they are operational, make sure you use them on a cool environment. I also recommend that you place

the drive(s) on something soft like a mouse-mat or a thick wad of paper to help absorb the vibrations. The softer the

better.<br/><br/>

Also, I start to feel a little uncomfortable when a hard disk starts to get older than 18 months to 2 years. Mainly

because I have experienced enough failures to make me very suspicious of their durability after an extended period of

time.<br/><br/>

When you carry an external hard disk with you outside, make sure it is stored and used such that not vulnerable to

shocks (i.e., soft padding helps). Also, NEVER place it next to your notebook charger. The transformer inside has a

magnetic field. <br/><br/>

Hard Disks are sensitive to this. It is unlikely that yout notebook transformer has been engineered so that the

casing is smaller than the magnetic field, but it's a case of better safe than sorry.<br/><br/>

Same goes with headphones, big or small, even the small earphone ones -- I never let them get within 6 inches of a

hard drive.<br/><br/>

I know it's a longer answer than you asked for, but I sincerely hope it helps you and others. Apologies if it is too long

winded.<br/><br/>

Zaakiy

To reiterate, I would rather spend that effort in learning a new skill. And I did. Now I take passport portraits for my household. And that, my friend, saves time because we don't have to waste time/money (and I value both) at the pharmacy doing it.

Edward, when you stop wasting time nitpicking about how you think I should live my life, perhaps you will find that you will have the time to focus on something better yourself.

I'm in Australia, I know what you are going through!<br/><br/>

You can do this quite easily in Photoshop (using Free Transform and dragging the corner whilst holding down

SHIFT), but it is just as easy, if not simpler, with Microsoft Word. It is the best and fastest way to get something

printed at the size you want.<br/><br/>

Make sure the Ruler is visible (View Menu I think). Then you can resize and crop to your hearts delight. <br/><br/>

One major piece of advice (from my experience with getting the passport accepted) is that rather than aiming for the

smaller size (35x45mm) or

the larger size (40x50mm), try to go for something just under the larger size (i.e., <b>a fraction smaller than

40x50mm</b>), and so that the face from chin to crown (i.e. top of head without hair) is <b>exactly 34mm

high</b>.<br/><br/>

Also, check out this website if you have not already done so:<br/><br/>

<a

href="https://www.passports.gov.au/Web/Requirements/Photos.aspx">https://www.passports.gov.au/Web/Requireme

nts/Photos.aspx</a>

#1 seems to retain the detail of the thinnest lines in the best way. However #2 does provide better volume and

fill.<br/><br/>

If you have a high quality image, I would say #1 is better. However I supect that #1 would highlight false detail on a

lower quality image, in which case #2 would be better.<br/><br/>

It would be good if you could post the original image so that we can compare. <b>However if I had to spend money

on a program right now without knowing anything more, I would without a doubt definitely go with #1.</b>

Use the Extract filter in Photoshop.<br/><br/>

Goto <a href="http://www.russellbrown.com/tips_tech.html">http://www.russellbrown.com/tips_tech.html</a> and download the video titled "Extracting Monster Backgrounds"

Do you mean sepia? If so, try this: <a href="http://www.photoshopsupport.com/tutorials/jennifer/sepia-

tone.html">http://www.photoshopsupport.com/tutorials/jennifer/sepia-tone.html</a>

So long as you, throughout the prost-production process (i.e., in Photoshop or elsewhere), maintain the same resolution and DPI (dots per inch) that the film was scanned as, then your output resolution after Photoshop "enhancements" (whatever they may be) will be the same.

One simple concept to appreciate is that your output resolution cannot be bigger than your input resolution (well, maybe it can, but let's not go there, as there are all sorts of caveats with respect to reduction of quality).

Deer is not in high enough resolution to get a realistic effect.

Also, once you have a higher resolution deer, blur it ever so slightly to get the correct depth of field effect

Rene, you crack me up!

I live in the southern hemispehere, and as a result I have to turn my D70 upside down to get the same quality pics as

you guys.

Only kidding! (Please everyone, I hope my joke does not offend - I hate to make jokes at other people's expense!)

Zaakiy

If you want quality perspective shift, I haven't done that so I'm not in a position to give advice.

However if a software fix will suffice, then you could use Photoshop or DxO Optics.

See <a href="http://www.photo.net/digital-camera-shopping-forum/00CkeO">http://www.photo.net/digital-camera-shopping-forum/00CkeO</a>.<br/><br/>

I love the idea of using bulb mode (or slowest shutter speed if your camera doesn't support bulb) with a black card to cover the lens during intervals between the fireworks. One person here also suggests using the lens cap (don't like that idea myself though - prefer the black card - but I suppose it's good as a last resort).<br/><br/>

Yesterday I tried this technique from the link I mentioned earlier:

http://www.photo.net/nikon-camera-forum/00Lqds

But the green light, which indicates that the camera can "see" the card, did not turn on until the card was all the way in.

I was not courageous enough to try and experiment any further though. Even if it does work, I does seem risky to put the card in halfway. Not trying this again. I don't want to risk messing things up further.

Zaakiy

Kate,

Assuming nothing is wrong with the camera, it sounds like the shutter is open for an inordinate amount of time. Try setting the dial on the left hand side to "P" and taking a pic.

Also, change the preview folder in the menu settings so that it displays "all" folders, and not just the current one (I don't have a d100, just D70, but I aassume there might be a similar setting).

Also check that the picture counter (showing approx number of pics remaining) acutally counts down the more pictures you take.

Zaakiy

<b>Quick Question:</b> If I have installed the NEF driver update from Nikon, do I still need to install the Adobe one?

<br/><br/>

<i>(only just starting to shoot RAW)</i>

<br/><br/>

Zaakiy

I have been living with this problem for over 12 months now, with it occurring once every 5-10 uses or so (as a rough

guide).<br/><br/>

I had a 1GB SanDisk Ultra II, and encountered corruption on the card. One minute I would be taking pictures and

reviewing them without any problems, and the next minute when I tried to review the pictures again it would do one of

the following:<br/>

<ol>

<li>CHA message (FYI I have read the "CHA" posts on the photo.net Nikon forum)</li>

<li>Card full message (when it was not)</li>

<li>No pictures in this folder message (or something like that)</li>

</ol>

<br/>

The same problems were occurring after I switched to a brand new SanDisk Ultra II 2GB card, so it's not a card

problem. <br/><br/>

Problems still occurred after I upgrade the A and B BIOS's on the camera about a month ago. <br/><br/>

I will attempt to get this resolved using this notice that I found on Nikon Australia's website: <a href=

"http://ww2.nikon.com.au/service/notice/d70.html">http://ww2.nikon.com.au/service/notice/d70.html</a>.<br/><br/>

(PS: Have a look at the post from Joe Manna here about pushing the card in halfway: <a href="http://www.photo.net/nikon-

camera-forum/00Lqds">http://www.photo.net/nikon-camera-forum/00Lqds</a> ....just saw it myself, haven't tried it but I

will from now until I send the camera in for repair. Let us know if it helps.