suchismit1

<p>For White Balance. If I take 500 pictures , say over a weekend trip to somewhere, I don't want to piddle with White Balance on the computer. I prefer them to be ready for sharing straight out of the camera.</p>

<p>FYI.. I upgraded to a new 5D Mark II last year which has none of the problems of the original 5D. It's the best camera ever !</p>

<p>The D200 is a fantastic camera for portraits. I don't use it as much since getting a 5D which I prefer, but here are some samples from <a href="http://www.pbase.com/yp8/">Yves P.</a> to make the point.<br>

<img src="http://ic2.pbase.com/o6/49/288349/1/79847337.DXLiGv3m.YP7_5348.jpg" alt="" /><br>

<img src="http://i.pbase.com/o6/49/288349/1/72772782.kogt4dAX.YP7_4770.jpg" alt="" /><br>

<img src="http://i.pbase.com/o6/49/288349/1/71547144.qVFiNSMP.YP7_4679.jpg" alt="" /><br>

<img src="http://ic2.pbase.com/o5/49/288349/1/68421549.ej8qys0n.YP7_1836.jpg" alt="" /></p>

 

<p>>>Remember your nose will touch the screen :)<br>

Good point. After a photo shoot I don't want to end up "Rudolph, the magenta...."</p>

<p>Excellent idea. I could try coloring the screen lightly with a magenta dry erase marker. Or permanent, if I get the shade right.</p>

<p>Peter, thanks for the link. I just upgraded to 1.1.1 but unfortunately it's still as green as ever.</p>

<p>1.1.0</p>

<p>I got a used 5D recently, but unfortunately it's one of the earlier models (1XXX...) and suffers from the nasty yellowish green cast on its display. The only remedies suggested that I have read are to a) return it for a later model (don't want to), b) have it fixed by Canon for a few hundred $$$ (don't want to), or c) tinker with the LCD's brightness to make the cast less bothersome (not effective).<br>

I am wondering if anybody has a tried a fourth option, which is to create a custom LCD protector/cover with a slight magenta cast to offset the green. A dirty but not so quick way could be as follows (all inside a color managed work flow)<br>

1. With custom WB set on the 5D, take a picture of a neutral subject (eg white wall). The wall appears greenish on the display.</p>

<p>2. With another camera also set to custom WB, shoot a close up of the LCD.</p>

<p>3. Import second image into Photoshop and apply curves to make it neutral. Save the curves.</p>

<p>4. Now apply the curves to a new image with just a white background. This results in a magenta bias.</p>

<p>5. Print onto a sheet of clear plastic that you intend to use as LCD protector for your 5D.</p>

<p>6. Cut out the plastic and attach to the 5D's display with the printed side on the inside.</p>

<p>How does that sound ? Of course it won't be accurate and will require some trial and error, but at least you won't have to look at the "vomity green" (Ken Rockwell's words) LCD again.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Zuiko 90mm f/2 on a Canon 20D</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Get an EOS body. Zuiko lenses loooove Canon EOS ! I use my Zuiko 90/2 on a Canon 20d with a $12 adapter I got from eBay. The results speak for themselves. As an added benefit you will still have automatic metering which you wouldn't on a Nikon body.</p>

<p>Ken Rockwell is the Rush Limbaugh of photography gear.</p>

<p>Use a flash.</p>

I am glad I found this thread. Mine broke too but unfortunately I don't have the receipt from B&H from 6 years back. I

will see what Nikon has to say.

Don't believe anyone who says there is no difference between the 20d and D70 image qualities(Cant comment on the 10d because I have no experience). I had deluded myself into thinking the D70 was the ultimate APS camera for over two years, until I also acquired a used 20d a month ago. The 20d is light years ahead of the Nikon in terms of color, autowhite balance and noise. Since I own both cameras and have no reason to be biased toward one over the other (if anything I should be biased toward Nikon as I own a whole nikon system and only a solitary 20d) I have done side by side comparisons between the same shots taken with similar lenses. Nikon cannot get skin tones right, no matter what you do and what WB you set it to. With Canon skin tones are DEAD ON even with AWB. Same goes for most other colors. One truly remarkable thing about the Canon is how it can maintain good color accuracy under poor artificial light if you choose a custom white balance. I did a lot of tests and in each one the colors came out spot on. Bravo Canon! Everything about the Canon is superior - Noise, white balance, color accuracy. Of course to the casual eye they may look the same - in reality they are anything but.

 

I am also discovering that Canon's ergonomocs are superior and the control placements (including the thumbwheel) are a joy to use. I have no experience with the D200, but from what I have heard color quality/accuracy is not a huge leap over the D70.

I scanned a 4x5 slide that I shot during a recent trip to Monument Valley ( view from Hunt's Mesa at dawn) using my 9950F and then made a 13x19 print at 480 ppi (2880 dpi) on my epson 1280.

 

I am just bowled over by the amount of detail the scanner captured ( and the printer was able to print)..especially the surface texture of the buttes and mesas. I am sure the Epsons are fine too but this scanner is fantastic! A drum scan may yield still better scans, but the difference is likely to be subtle rather than dramatic.

Dan, are you the author of 'Da Vinci Code ' ?

An entire series of Zuiko Large Format lenses. Starting with a110/5.6, 75/5.6 ...

If you buy nice OM lenses you can quite easily mount them on EOS digital bodies, so OM is a good choice.

 

Decent light kit - OM-4, 50/1.8 , 35/2 or OM-4,35-70/3.6 I wouldn't recommend buying anything older than the OM-4, its the most (relatively) modern reliable body thats affordable and has great metering.

I own the 35/2. For manual focus cameras buy the brightest you can afford, no questions. Optical quality by mid aperture is about the same.

<i> I feel that the correct way to get for consistent colour (ie so that the monitor colour matches the printed output) is to turn Nikon Colour Management off, and when opening the file in Photoshop (it will have no embedded scanner profile), select my calibrated monitor profile in the dialog box (ie, not Adobe RGB 1998) and check the box for convert to Adobe RGB for working space.</i><p>

 

Wayne, first of all let me heartily recommended the book 'Real World Color Management' by Bruce Fraser, to help you understand the basics of Color Management. You won't find a better book on the subject. I have studied it and I am all the better for it. The goal of color management is quite simple -- to let *COLORS* remains consistent as you move files from device to device by fudging the numerical *VALUES* (RGB, etc) in the files. I will leave the details to the book which you must read. <p>

 

Having said that, the surest way to get poor colors from your cs5000 is turn off color management! Nikon Color Management is quite good and it is there for a reason. The purpose is to embed profiles in scans that lets other applications/device interpret its colors. Remember all devices see/produce color differently and without an embedded profile or a tag, an image file is at best a poor approximation of the original capture. To make a long story short, you absolutely NEED to have the Nikon ADOBE-RGB profile embedded to get true colors later on.

The simplest way is to have Nikon scan do that for you, or else you can later *assign* that profile manually in PS(Assigning a profile is quite different from Converting to a profile) If you assign any other profile but this one, your original colors (from the slide) will be lost. You can however CONVERT to any other profile in PhotoShop, but your starting profile must again always be Nikon Adobe RGB (assuming thats the color space you are scanning in). And finally when you are ready to print just convert to your printer/paper's colors pace after you are done editing. <p>

 

Once again- when you are converting from one color space to another, you are not changing the colors themselves (thats the whole point!), you are merely changing the RGB values so that in the new space the new numbers preserve the same colors.

The auction was won by sniping. No doubt that the item will appear for sale at lensandrepro.com in a short period of time.

Good question. See my response <a href= 'http://largeformatphotography.info/lfforum/topic/500721.html'>here </a>

Don't overlook the Shen Hao..superb build, made of solid teak and looks gorgeous. AFAIK it offers more movement than the Tach, but then you might not need that much movement when starting out. I have been very happy with mine.

 

Badgergraphic.com sells both the Shen Hao and the Tach. Consider also the Osaka(rebadged Tach )if you are leaning toward the Tachihara. KEH had a used one in good condition for $399, not sure if its still there.

OK, I finally got it this morning. It came with a Wista lens board and its a bit bigger and heavier than I thought it would be. But on the bright side it fit on my Shen Hao without a problem. It doesn't seem like I will need bag bellows for it either. <p>

 

I might add that the front standard of the Shen Hao seems strong enough to be able to support a lens at least twice its weight.

Hugh, what kind of device are you talking about ?