brian_sullivan1

<p>OK -- figured it out. I had the flash set to CMD/Commander mode. Setting it to TTL seems to make it work the way I want with proper exposure.</p>

<p>So it <em><strong>was</strong> </em>a brainfart/operator problem (what I expected).</p>

<p>I am not expecting perfection. I realize that using the built in flash is not often the best external lighting choice.<br>

But as I said I put this strategy to good use on my D50. I see no reason why it should not work with the D7000 at least as well.<br>

Sometimes I do not carry the external flash -- sometimes there is not time to do anything but pop up the flash and shoot.</p>

<p>I am having an issue with the built in flash on my D7000.</p>

<p>When in P mode, deploying the built in flash produces pictures that are underexposed. With my old D50 this is a strategy that I often used when I made a decision that fill was need or that the situation otherwise warranted flash. External flash seems to work as expected as well.</p>

<p>Using AUTO or scene modes though, all seems to be well. This implies in my mind that the flash is working as designed but there is something in settings causing my woes.</p>

<p>Any ideas why I am seeing what I am seeing and how to correct it?</p>

<p>I have that lens -- it works on my D50. Can't speak for the D80 though -- but I am thinking there is a better than good chance that it would work there as well.</p>

<p>If you think you will run into wildlife and want pictures wouldn't something long be in order? Maybe a 70/75-300 something with stabilization?</p>

<p>Is the ISO auto setting on ? What are the ISO settings of the pictures in question. On my camera (Nikon D50) I think the ISO is adjusted even in manual mode if set to ISO auto.</p>

<p>Things I would have on the list that are less than $80 (assuming you are not already equipped with them):</p>

<ul>

<li>polarizing filter for at least on of your lenses</li>

<li>camera strap</li>

<li>more SD memory</li>

<li>rechargeable batteries/charger for flash</li>

<li>extra camera battery</li>

<li>sensor cleaning kit</li>

</ul>

<p>Lately I have been shooting pictures with another photographer intended for use in the same final (digital) eLearning production. Two different manufacturers (and lenses), two different flashes and multiple locations in a building (sometimes the same for both cameras, sometimes different). Locations are outside, inside -- the inside ones often have wildly varying lighting.</p>

<p>We want to minimize the visible colour/white balance and exposure differences straight off the cameras and minimize potential post processing.</p>

<p>I am a loss as to how to approach this problem. Any ideas?</p>

<p><a href="http://www.tamron.com/assets/pdfs/200500mm.pdf">http://www.tamron.com/assets/pdfs/200500mm.pdf</a></p>

I have a couple of these as well. The big thing I have against them is that (contrary to your statement) are rather big

and bulky. It makes fitting the camera into any sort of fitted case impossible. Also they tend to be less durable than

you think -- being just a piece of rubber glued to a plastic ring. Any sort of pressure can cause the two pieces to

separate.

 

Nothing beats a proper custom reversible hood if it is available for the lens (the lenses I use them for are old and

custom hoods were no longer available when I looked)

Strangely enough I also have an older Sigma 28-70 2.8. Got both the 28-70 and 70-210 on Ebay at a bargain

I do have that lens as well bought off Ebay -- unfortunately (for you not me) mine works.

 

I don't have a lot of information about this lens though. Any idea what era this is from?

 

Sorry I can't help you with the parts problem.