gp photography

<p>My guess D3</p>

<p>I also went with the adapter that goes into the sb-800 battery slot and connects direct to the battery pack. I use NO AA's at all in my set up.</p>

<p>Ross I found the same issue when I owned a couple of the Nikon Battery packs in the beginning. I sold them as soon as I could. You also run into never knowing when they are going to die in the field.<br>

I went with a Quantum 1 Plus (lowest cost) battery pack. I love it and even now own 2 for using with a 2 light on-site set up with my sb-800's. The lights tell me how much charge I have left and I have never run out of juice on a job in over 2 years now.<br>

Today, if I were to do it again, or when these do end up dying, I would go with one of turbo units but the 1 plus unit has been great for me.<br>

http://<a href="http://www.qtm.com">www.qtm.com</a><br>

Gary</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Studio Prop, Underwater Prop (for those that do underwater Senior Photography) are a few thoughts.</p>

<p>It's my understanding, it's the same camera with the few extra things (like the video, dual Card, etc..)added. Nothing changed in the DSLR camera itself.<br>

I have the D200, D300 and D700. I would go D700, but I would also wait till the end of the month and see what the new stuff coming out is going to be and watch the D700 price to see if it goes down, if you still want it over the newer released models.<br>

G.<br>

</p>

<p>I have the D200, D300 and the D700. Shoot HS and College Sports. My vote > D700 hands down. Current setup is my D200 stays in my studio, the D300 is on my shoulder as backup on the sidelines and the D700 is my main. (I'm finding that I do not use my backup that much in my HS shooting) Next year I will upgrade to the D3, have the D700 as backup. Turn the D300 into my Studio Camera and and pass along the D200 to a young upcoming Photographer. </p>

<p>Here in Dallas my friend charges about what you were told for him to clean it for you, but has a much lower cost for a one time training of how you can do it yourself under his watchful eye. Then once you do it in training you feel better in the future doing it yourself. You might ask the camera repair shop if they provide the same one time training. I was in his shop yesterday and he was returning a D200 to a customer that tried on his own with out any instruction the first time and messed some internal stuff up in the process and ws paying a 400.00 repair bill. Be careful if it's just not your bag to clean your own. </p>

<p>I have a friend that owns a Camera repair store, his Dad owned it before him (20-30 yrs in business). He claims that Cannon has a internal focus issue and they know about it but won't amit to it. He says that if you push them on it they will correct it. Cannon Friends that have heard this have pushed Cannon on the issue or sent their cameras to 3rd party repair have seen the results. You might look into this as well. I know my NIKON gear has always provided me sharp images and I have seen differences with my Cannon friends photos from mine, but getting the internal focus issue resolved has helped them. </p>

<p>I own the D200, D300 and D700. I STILL use my handheld Meter. </p>

<p>Still get OK, better than most photos even in High School Stadium lighting using it, but would like to have the f-stops back, providing lower ISO needs. I'm looking for a 300 f2.8 or 400 f2.8 now. Until then, my Editors are happy with my work in our small market newspapers. </p>

<p>I've used in Alamo Dome in San Antonio lighting on my 70-200 the NIKON 1.7 TC on the D700. SP-@ SS 1000, auto ISO.</p><div></div>

<p>I've used in Alamo Dome in San Antonio lighting on my 70-200 the NIKON 1.7 TC on the D700. SP-@ SS 1000, auto ISO.</p>

<p>Check out ><br>

<a href="http://www.DTownTV.com">www.DTownTV.com</a><br>

for FREE NIKON TRAINING and it is great information.<br>

Also <a href="http://www.kelbytraining.com/">http://www.kelbytraining.com/</a> has online classes for cost, but they cover NIKON Cameras in detail.<br>

Gary<br>

D200, D300 and D700 Owner</p>

 

<p>I have two of the chargers pluged into my AC/DC converter in my truck for my D200, D300 and D700 cameras and have never had an issue over the last two years.<br>

G.</p>

 

<p>Hey Allan,<br>

If you like the 8a, (I had 2 of them and sold them both) have you looked at the Quantum Battery 1+ units? Just a little more money, but they have been SOOOO much better for me. Knowing how much juice you have left at all times from the lights and ease of re-charging made me through a party when I was able to dump the AA's from my work load. No AA's in my SB-800's either. <br>

Gary</p>

 

<p>Thanks Matt! I'm looking at the UPCR20L unit first, I already have the wireless setup for it, and then the 8x10 unit after that. Can you email me direct, I have some questions if you have some time. <a href="mailto:Gary@GaryPuckettPhotography.com">Gary@GaryPuckettPhotography.com</a><br>

Thanks,<br>

Gary</p>

 

<p>OK, I can see your point on time and ink prices. I have been researching the Dry-Sub printers (Sony) that print a 5x7 for about 50 cents each (paper roll & ink). Looking to invest for a 5x7 and an 8x10 unit and run the wireless multi camera system from it. The reason for my desire, I have been having issues with people not ordering as much or at all, if I run the proof, print and deliver after the event system. They get busy and end up not ordering if time passes. I want to try the shoot, pay, deliver on site system this year.<br>

Thanks for the feedback,<br>

Gary </p>

<p>Steven,<br>

I am looking at onsite printing this year myself. Did you use a drysub printer or photo inkjet?<br>

Thanks,<br>

Gary</p>

 

<p>Steven,<br>

Have you thought about on-site printing?<br>

Gary</p>

<p>Hey Marko, email me direct and I will point you to a friend that has owned a repair shop for many many years and he can tell you the facts...He was a Nikon and Canon person. I do know this...just the tools and training for NIKON, you beter have a BIG bank account.<br>

<a href="mailto:Gary@GaryPuckettPhotography.com">Gary@GaryPuckettPhotography.com</a><br>

</p>

<p>Cindi, Can't give you a tech answer, but I find with my D700 when I shoot church stage photography with all of their hi-tech lighting, I get the best results when I take a reading off one of the Praise Team Members faces, not dark clothes then set my camera to manual mode to hold that exposure where the face is not blown out. If on SP, your F/stop will continue to bounse around based on the lighting changes on stage. (Spot Stage Lighting) Also, I find because of the stage lighting being bright, H1 ISO is way to hi (25K +). It may be dark where you are sitting/standing, but the lighting on stage is bright and effects your exposure a lot in the end photograph. My 2 cents....Shoot a few test shots, changing your settings around, ISO for sure, find one that is working, set camera to manual at those settings.<br>

G.<br>

</p>

Joseph,

 

I sold mine LOCAL. I find that services are going to buy low, so they can make money. It's better to sell on your own.

 

Gary

I sold my 17-55 f/2.8 DX for $1000.00 right after I bought my D700 and then purchased the 24-70 f/2.8 FX

I own the D200, D300 and the D700. For night time sports or low light basketball gyms, D700 hands down because of the High ISO with very very low nosie issues. I shot a game last night in a very low lighted gym. At H1 on the D700, 70-200 f/2.8, SS was around 800. Email me and I'll shoot you an image. Gary@GaryPuckettPhotography.com

Hey Danny,

 

What are you looking for...better photos? The BETTER is in the lens. The 17-55 which I owned before I sold mine, but have a friend still selling his, (we both upgraded to the D700 and the 24-70 f2.8) is TACK SHARP. It was my go to lens (stayed on my D200 & D300 all the time). It's a great lens and worth the money, find one used in GREAT shape and I'm sure you will be happy witht he outcome.

 

Gary