martynas_kundrotas1

<p>Thank you for all of your responses.<br>

Matt Laur - I shoot in SRGB and when I open it in Photoshop it's set by default to AdobeRGB as the color profile. Well, I tried every other profile with no change at all. My display is not calibrated, but it's showing up with these colors in camera as well. I'm working with Lightroom mostly, but it looks the same in Camera Raw as well. I'm fine that the colors are not vibrant, I understand that you need to bring them out with editing, that's what RAW is for. But it doesn't look like something from a FLAT profile, it seems like it's something else.<br>

Nick Sanyal - Since I'm shooting RAW I don't think the Picture Controls matter, you basically change them when opening them with your RAW editor.<br>

Matthew Currie - Ok, I shot a blank wall, what should I look for in the Histogram?<br>

Mag Miksch - Yes it is underexposed, but that shouldn't destroy the colors this way.</p>

<p>The funny thing is that I have the same problem with the new camera as with the old one. So maybe it's not the camera? Could be it be lenses? Cards? Raw settings? I'm shooting in 12 bit RAW by the way.<br>

Martynas</p>

<p>Thank you for all of your responses.<br>

Matt Laur - I shoot in SRGB and when I open it in Photoshop it's set by default to AdobeRGB as the color profile. Well, I tried every other profile with no change at all. My display is not calibrated, but it's showing up with these colors in camera as well. I'm working with Lightroom mostly, but it looks the same in Camera Raw as well. I'm fine that the colors are not vibrant, I understand that you need to bring them out with editing, that's what RAW is for. But it doesn't look like something from a FLAT profile, it seems like it's something else.<br>

Nick Sanyal - Since I'm shooting RAW I don't think the Picture Controls matter, you basically change them when opening them with your RAW editor.<br>

Matthew Currie - Ok, I shot a blank wall, what should I look for in the Histogram?<br>

Mag Miksch - Yes it is underexposed, but that shouldn't destroy the colors this way.</p>

<p>The funny thing is that I have the same problem with the new camera as with the old one. So maybe it's not the camera? Could be it be lenses? Cards? Raw settings? I'm shooting in 12 bit RAW by the way.<br>

Martynas</p>

<p>Hello everyone,<br>

I recently purchased a Nikon D750 and in certain conditions I noticed the colors are so off that I can't seem to recover them. It's as if some colors are missing completely, I mostly noticed this in scenes with a lot of green. Curiously enough I had a D7000 prior to this camera and I started having the same problem a while ago. I shoot only RAW and when I play with the TINT slider I get it to look ok, but still not completely right. So is this a software issue that can be solved or something more serious?<br>

Here is an example of what I mean: https://www.dropbox.com/s/qm1ige0cq1s2im7/DSC_9254.jpg?dl=0<br>

The JPG is saved in Adobe Standard profile, I can upload the RAW file if needed. Thank you for your help.<br>

Martynas</p>

<p> </p><div></div>

<p>I just tried it on another display, it's exactly the same, i don't think there is much left to think about. I'm pretty sure it's broken. Yes i've ran the diagnostics tool, it says it's fine, but i've read alot of posts, that that doesn't mean anything. And yes i've tried to set it to factory defaults too, the same thing happened on another pc with another display. Well, i guess you can't buy these things used :) I hope i'll get my money back. Thanks Andrew for your suggestions.</p>

<p>Yes, i've tried it in photoshop too, it looks the same. About the brightness, i meant that it doesn't get to 90cd, because the highest it does is 85, my target was 140, after calibration it said that it couldn't reach 140. I really appreciate your help. Just a thought, the calibrator is Gretagmacbeth not xrite, as far as i understand it's exactly the same puck, or could there be differences?</p>

<p>Rodney > yes i know that, and i used firefox which is color managed, but the point is my whole desktop looks like that, it's just completely wrong.<br>

I just used the spectraview software, and the results are the same, i still get a green desktop, the colors are way way off, and it can't even reach 90cd of brightness. Am i still doing something wrong?</p>

<p>Hello,<br>

I finally purchased a calibrator puck for my NEC P221W. I read some tutorials on calibration and such, but either i'm doing something tottaly wrong or i've got a broken puck.<br>

With the imatch supplied software i'm getting all kinds of goofs. First of all i tried the easy mode, at first look it seems to do ok, but then when i look at my pictures, or open any webpage the colors are absolutely wrong, not slightly, but completely different. Then i tried the Advanced mode. When it measures the contrast, i pretty much can get a desired result, ant 63 percent. Then when it gets to the Luminance measurement, it only reads that my Luminance is 80cd, though i've got the brightness set to a 100% (my target being 90cd). Then when i finnally get to the RGB configuration, after measuring all of the sliders are in the corner positions and it measures my current temperature being 1800, which is absurd. When i try to adjust the sliders through my OSD controls, the sliders in the imatch software don't move no matter what i do. I tried to get it to my target which is 5000, but it turns out green, not like a slight tint, but everyhthing is completely green (menus, photos, everything).<br>

Then i tried the Basiccolor software, i set my targets accordingly (5000, 90, 2.2 gamma). But when i get to the RGB controls, and it ask me to adjust the sliders, it measures 1800 as the current temperature, adjusted it's awfully green. And in the end, when it is calculating the profile, it takes forever, it just hangs there.<br>

Another question, how do i get to the Hardware LUT. Since i live in europe, i purchased Basiccolor, which i've heard should access the internal LUT of my monitor, since it's bundled here with this specific software.<br>

I'm using Windows 7 64bit, and yes i have the newest drivers which come with the iMatch 3.6.2 software.<br>

Any help would be gladly appreciated!</p>

<p>Hmm, that's a bit more like it, the clarity is way too much for my taste though. Did you get these kind of colors only with the clarity slider? They look alot better and that's what i'm looking for.</p>

<p>I completely agree with you Tim, i also don't think it's possible to get such an image naturally. There's heavy processing involved, but still it's very well controlled and thought out. About the presets, i think it's quite wise to try some lightroom presets, because you see exactly what has been done, what sliders were manipulated. The problem is, you have to pay for most of them :)</p>

<p>Thanks for thorough response :) Well, i completely agree that first of all you have to to shoot the picture well, then tune it with photoshop. And by highly controlled lighting you mean he waited for a specific time of day to shoot those pictures? If yes then everything is more or less clear how these images look as they look :) Apart from this i don't see any other light sources, apart from maybe some reflectors in some of the pictures. Is that what you mean?</p>

<p>Well, i still think it has some kind of color cast and certainly doesn't look as good as in the link i posted. It's not even close.</p>

<p>For example.</p><div></div>

<p>I always shoot raw.</p>

<p>Hi, i'm sorry if this was poster before, but i couldn't find an exactly similar post. <em></em>Since i began shooting, i shot black and white, either i desaturated the images or later used monochrome film. Now that i'm shooting digital for assignments, i can't get away with grayscaling all of the images. It's mostly ok under artificial, colored light, since it doesn't really matter how correct the photos look, you just do them the way it pleases you. But it's a different story under natural lighting, i get weird color casts, muted colors and so on. I want to learn and understand how to get pictures like these <a href="http://www.jusufoto.lt/klientai/2010/zivile+arunas.html">http://www.jusufoto.lt/klientai/2010/zivile+arunas.html</a>. Is it mainly the editing? I understand the lenses are sharp and maybe he uses a camera with better noise control, but what else? Everything is so sharp, clear and the colors are bright. How do you get something like this? I understand that lighting is the essence of photography, but i never ever get these kind of colors under overcast days for example. By the way i'm using a Nikon D80 + Nikkor 50mm 1.8f + Tokina 12-24 f4. Thanks</p>

<p>Weinberg><br>

The bottom. When i look at some other images that have this kind of problem, it's always at the bottom.</p>

<p>Thanks for the responses, i only wanted to find out if that's normal or not with the sun getting out at times, i won't have to worry about it then. And about the brighter side, come to think of it, it could be that it only happens on a specific shutter speed, probably the fast ones, since on sunny days they are always 1/1000 and up. I'll have to check my negatives, thanks!</p>

<p>The sun going out of the negative :)</p><div></div>

<p>Hello, i've been getting negatives with a brighter side on some frames. It seems to occur only when i shoot on sunny days, or any place with huge amounts of light. Since i don't shoot that many rolls and i mostly take pictures on rainy, overcast days, it didn't strike me as a problem. And recently i developed my last film roll, and as you see from the photo, the sun is out of the frame. Why is this happening? It even seems to affect the other frames as well.</p><div></div>

<p>I have a Nikon FM2 camera with a 50mm 1.8 and a 28mm 2.8 AIS. While i'm quite happy with the quality of both, i really hate the distortion of the 28mm. I'm talking about barrel distortion and edge distortion, what other alternatives are there? I really like to put things, people at the edges, so that's kind of an issue, and i often shoot urban landscapes which includes alot of straight of lines. I wouldn't want to go anywhere narrower than 28mm. I also was looking at medium format, the Mamiya c330, but i can't really find any info about the lenses, how much better do they perform? Thanks</p>

<p>I bought the Nec P221W monitor. Now after a week of use i started to notice uneven brightness. The bottom of the screen seems to be darker than the top, especially the right corner. Is it tweakable with settings, calibration? Or do i simply have a defective screen?</p>

<p>Well, thanks for the responses :) It seems i can't get away without a calibrator :/</p>

<p>Well, actually no, the colors still aren't right, they aren't as saturated as before, they seem awkward now and washed out :/ I don't understand a thing...</p>

<p>When in windows 7 i set the color profile to SRGB, none of the so called color managed apps correct the colors. When i change it to adobeRGB for example, then i can clearly see the difference, between color managed and not. In firefox when i enable color management, they seem about right. Is this the correct way? Until i get a calibrator that is.</p>

<p>Well as far as i know windows 7 is color managed. The problem is i have no idea how to get those normal colors, should i create a profile myself?</p>

<p>I just switched from a crt monitor to a wide gamut NEC P221W. Now i read about wide gamut displays before buying, but i kinda thought it wouldn't be that bad. I also read about color managed apps, liek firefox, photoshop and such, but i don't see any difference between color managed or not. Everything looks wrong, colors are too intensive, especially red. Any idea what am i doing wrong? I don't have a calibrator yet...</p>