roger_gerbig1

<p>I've shot several rolls with a Kodak Monitor 620, with a 105mm lens. At 1/100 & 1/200th sec, I have no problem getting a sharp image. At 1/50th sec, I might get 1 sharp image in 5.<br>

Should note that I use this camera handheld and fire the shutter with a cable release because the shutter button linkage doesn't work on the camera.</p>

<p>FWIW, switching from Nikonscan to Vuescan was a revelation for me, especially when I started saving my scans as RAW .dng files.<br>

I've scanned a lot of Kodachrome, which really required a lot of image manipulation in Photoshop to produce anything resembling nice. Vuescan reduces the amount of imaging doctoring by more than half. Easily.</p>

<p>I have 3 120 backs, though I only take two with me most of the time. Typically, they're loaded with different types/speeds of B&W film. I bought the 3rd back for color reversal film. I was waffling on whether to get an A24 because the color films I use are still available in 220 and processing is much cheaper. I made an intentionally low maximum bid on a really nice A12 back, thinking I'd lose the auction for sure, which would convince me to buy an even cheaper A24.</p>

<p>Needless to say, I won the auction. I'm happy I got an excellent bargain, but am still considering an A24 for color. I keep telling myself that someday I actually won't need to buy any more accessories, but haven't set a target date for obvious reasons.</p>

<p>Sorry to have caused a misunderstanding, David. I was replying from memory on a computer far away from my receipt. I just wanted to point out that you can have a camera professionally unjammed and fixed for far less than the price quoted in the original post. Camera's working great now.</p>

 

<p>Earlier this year I managed to jam my 500c/m and 80mm CF -- while preparing to ship the camera body off for a CLA. As I was planning to ship it to David Odess (USA), I emailed him first to ask for advice. I couldn't get the lens off the body, so I shipped them both.<br>

He unjammed the lens and peformed the CLA for about $220. The lens was not damaged and no parts needed to be replaced on the camera either. Since the CLA costs a standard $150, the addtional labor required to unjam the camera and remove the lens cost about $70. Works perfectly now.<br>

Roger</p>

<p>I use a Hasselblad on a Manfrotto carbon fiber tripod that most would probably consider too flimsy for medium format. However, I hang the camera bag from the tripod to add weight and never shoot a frame without prereleasing the camera (mirror lockup). This works fine for me, and I don't have to lug a heavy tripod around when hiking.</p>

<p>I photographed exactly one wedding with a Hasselblad. All handheld except for the formal portraits. The wedding was outdoors on a sunny day; used a flash for all of the reception shots. Probably 80% of the photos were with the 120mm lens.</p>

<p>I didn't have any focusing problems. In retrospect, I think the key to accurate focusing was using the quick focusing handle.</p>

 

<p>I photographed exactly one wedding with a Hasselblad. All handheld except for the formal portraits. The wedding was outdoors on a sunny day; used a flash for all of the reception shots. Probably 80% of the photos were with the 120mm lens.</p>

<p>I didn't have any focusing problems. In retrospect, I think the key to accurate focusing was using the quick focusing handle.</p>

 

<p>I purchased a Gossen Luna Star F2 back in 1995 when they cost about $350 new from a big NYC dealer. That was about $300 more than I had to spend at the time. However, after 14 years of use, I consider it to be the single best photo accessory investment that I ever made.<br>

At various times, I've used the flash meter, the Cine setting, even the 5-degree "spot" attachment for zone system purposes.<br>

It's a brilliant, versatile, and durable piece of equipment.</p>

I think locking up the mirror is the most important technique to obtain better sharpness. Especially with a Hasselblad. Because I have a CF lens with no timer, I always use a cable release in conjunction with "prereleasing the shutter" as Hasselblad calls it.

 

With my EOS 3 SLR, I set the mirror lockup and the 2-second timer for tripod shots. Indespensible, as you can't use a classic cable release with this camera.

Try looking at the prices at KEH camera:

 

www.keh.com

 

and then convert to Euros.

 

They are a camera dealer, and have many Hasselblad lenses & camera bodies, in different conditions, in stock. It sounds like the camera you are looking at is being sold by an individual, so you should be to offer 10-30% less for each item than KEH charges, because they have to include their profit margin.

 

I'd also research European auction prices, because the original Hasselblad pricing was determined by their regional sales divisions. I've always heard that Hasselblad USA charged a higher price than other regions. (This may or may not affect resale prices, but it's always good to do thorough research.)

I suspect that 120 will be with us for a long time to come. Look at Super-8 film, they still make that, and there hasn't

been a new camera manufactured in 25 years. The variety of films available is limited, and once they killed off

Kodachrome 40, I knew I was done.

 

I think we're looking at a similiar scenario for 120. It will be here for many years to come (after all, you can still buy

new MF cameras), but the variety of film and paper will become more limited.

 

I also believe that at some point, film's going to become "cool" again. Right now we're in the thick of a "film is

obsolete" holocaust at the hands of digital. Of course, film will never return to the top of the sales charts, but there

will be enough folks in the "cool" camp to keep some manufacturers interested.

A few things:

 

1. You probably won't have to worry about draining the battery during long exposures. All camera operations are mechanical, no power needed.

 

2. If you're using the camera on a tripod for a landscape, or other non-moving subject, pre-release the camera before tripping the shutter. This eliminates the potentail for vibration from the reflex mirror and baffles opening. The prerelease control is a slider on the right side of the camera underneath the winding crank. Reading the manual will make this seem much more obvious.

 

3. This is the important one -- always advance the film right after you've taken a picture. This ensures that the lens is cocked, the reflex mirror is lowered, the baffle closed and the film advanced to the next frame. Although not advancing the film immediately won't cause the camera to jam, it does create a situation where an inexperienced user can (all too easily) jam the camera accidently. Trust me, I've been that inexperienced user. Now, I make it a point to advance the film immediately as a best practice. Haven't had any problems since.

I'm only interested in using 58mm filters on the 80mm CF and the 150 CF. Vignetting with

this size filter on a wide-angle lens seems like a foregone conclusion to me.

Hi,

 

Have you had success using a B60 to 58mm step-down ring on your Hasselblad? Mostly, do you

experience vignetting when using 80mm and longer focal lengths?

 

I know that the 67mm step up ring is a better solution, but have a number of B+W 58mm filters that I'd

prefer not to buy again in a larger size, hence my desire to try using a B60 to 58mm adapter.

 

Thanks!