emiliogtz

<p>Nikon F4, AI'd 135mm 2.8, Kodak Tri-X 400.</p><div></div>

<p>Just took a look at mine, and even though that looks slightly like the material the focusing screen is made of, I can't seem to find any resemblance to any part of it.</p>

<p>There's nothing inside the camera I could see that could include that part either. Did you get this camera used? Perhaps the previous owner have something to do with it. Is it working fine?</p>

<p>Hi Everyone, </p>

<p>Great submissions so far, that's an interesting capture <a href="/photodb/user?user_id=4130248">Simon Jenkins</a>.</p>

<p>Last week we went camping and I had the chance to do some long exposures trying to get some star trails. The sky was supposed to be clear but we had some clouds anyway which gave me some unexpected results. </p><div></div>

<p>Thanks for your kind comments <a href="/photodb/user?user_id=6224845">Chris Wick</a>, <a href="/photodb/user?user_id=3886578">Finlay Jolliffe</a> and <a href="/photodb/user?user_id=6506120">ralph oshiro</a>. I'm glad you liked my contribution!</p>

<p>Hi Everyone and happy Nikon Wednesday.</p>

<p>This was done using a D700 shooting through the focusing screen of a F4 with a 135mm 2.8.</p>

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<p>Yikes. That'd be like naming a new cruise ship Titanic.</p>

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<p> <br>

At least then we would have a hint as to where they are headed. =)</p>

<p>Looks more like a Coolpix to me.</p>

<p>Yes, I know the batteries have surely reached the end of their useful life, I will have to order one pretty soon. I'm happy, I got a lot out of them. The behavior I noticed seems to be normal then: the sharp drop in performance once the health condition reaches 3 on the meter. I will keep an eye on the other battery which still shows 0 on the health meter.</p>

<p>I was also getting about 2000 shots on each charge, even more when used on my D300 with the grip.</p>

<p>Frank, the count I'm referring to is the one you can see when you choose the <em>Battery info</em> option on the <em>Setup Menu</em>, there you can see your battery health and the number of shots taken since the last charge. You can take about 2000 pictures when using EN-EL4 batteries in D2/D3 and D300/D700 with grip.</p>

<p>Hi everyone,</p>

<p>I have a couple of EN-EL4 batteries I bought some years ago. Both were purchased within weeks from each other (one came with a camera, the other bought separately) and I'm pretty sure both have about the same mileage, since I have had them in rotation all the time.</p>

<p>Earlier this year, around April or May, I noticed one of them showing a value of 2 on the health meter. I did not know when the health meter for that battery changed since I don't check them frequently. I loaded the other battery and the meter read 0. I used the 'affected' battery and when time came to recharge it I also calibrated it. The health value remained at 2 but the performance of the battery seemed to be the same as always.</p>

<p>Now, after some more charges cycles, no more than 4, I believe, the health meter has gone to 3 and the battery died after just over 600 shots. Its sister battery still reads 0 on the health meter and is performing much better. </p>

<p>Is such different behaviour from two identical batteries to be expected or could it be there was something wrong with that battery since the beginning? Also, is it normal for the performance of these batteries to drop so sharply?</p>

<p>Here's my contribution for today.</p><div></div>

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<p>To the nikon fan boys, while Nikon does offer substantially more options than Canon, i hope it realises that Canikon are not the only game in town. M43 has really opened up another frontier.</p>

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<p> <br>

If I'm a fanboy, why should I care about what others brands do and/or offer?<br>

<br>

Fanboyism and the diversity of the market has nothing to do with using the right tool for the right job. You are a pro, you may want/have to use pro tools, regardless of brand. Customers might even demand you to do so.</p>

<p>It seems to me that the "DX prosumer" market is no longer. Nikon seems to want its "prosumer" clients to buy FX. </p>

<p>It has limitations on FX. Soft/dark corners and a fair amount of distortion, most diminish as you stop down and/or zoom in. Here's a bad scenario where you can see what I mention:</p>

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<p>I've used N90s/N8008 focusing screens interchangeably on both bodies, without a problem. </p>

<p>A D200 sounds like a good option then, I guess I could trade my D2x for a D200 and a 35mm f/2 and use both as a dedicated IR outfit.</p>

<p>I'm considering LifePixel as well, my main concern is precisely the lack of live view since I probably will not be able to have a lens calibrated for this particular application (LifePixel offers the service). And even though I will not be doing fast action with the converted camera, but mostly landscapes/cityscapes, shooting and reviewing in the D2X's awful LCD monitor might be a bit frustrating.</p>

<p>Thank you for the input, and those are great pics Michael.</p>

<p>I may be considering converting my old D2x to infrared. Has anyone around here done such thing? If so, how it went? Is it worth it?</p>

<p>Thanks.</p>

<p>Another vote for not taking many lenses. I've covered several ATV/Motocross events and my 80-200 2.8 and my 180 2.8 have served me very well. I usually carry a normal prime in my bag for portraits once the race os over. Tripods will usually slow you down, unless you can't move (which is not the case here, some events have designated areas for photographers).</p>

<p>I'd pair the D700 with the 180 and the D300 with the 35-70. Get ready to get a lot of dust on your gear though, so you may want to bring one of those rubber blowers and some microfiber cloth to clean up frequently, depending on your weather hand's sweat and dust make an unpleasant combination. If it's sunny, keep an eye for flares, I've had too many shot ruined by flares/ghosts because I got carried away panning trying to get some motion blur. Watch your step too, it's not nice when you stumble and fall while carrying expensive gear =)</p>

<p>And most important of all, have fun! </p>

<p>Try to use only one focus sensor and try to keep it over the subject. In my experience, when shooting kids with continuos focusing, you make it easier for the camera if you start your focusing when the kid's not moving, then, if you keep the shutter button half-pressed the camera can better track the subject when he/she starts moving around.</p>

<p>Also, due to building tolerances, sometimes (rarely though) particular lenses and cameras don't get along very well. My 80-200 2.8 and my D300 hate each other. It's very difficult for me to shoot a moving object in focus with that combination. That lens focuses much better on every one of my other bodies, including some very old film bodies I still have, and I've succesfully photographed my kids with it, regardless of the direction they move.</p>

<p>Do you have another body you could try your lens on?</p>

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<p>It really puzzles me why Canon USA is not completely hostile to gary market Canon products.</p>

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<p>Maybe it's just because Canon is a bigger and more diverse company, perhaps they can afford it and let the customers be, for the time being.</p>

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<p>What is its purpose?</p>

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<p>It gives character to your lens.</p>

<p>Many of those "problems" probably come from poor focusing techniques. Even the best auto-focus systems are not entirely perfect, but the Nikon ones are some of the best, in my experience.</p>

<p>It's probably your copy. My D300 has never been able to reliably keep focus on moving subjects, even slow-moving ones, I played around with the settings for a while and decided to give it up. Out of a series of 6-8 shots of my son riding his bicycle only one or two at most would be in focus. I tried shooting from several distances.</p>

<p>Also tried it with multiple lenses and they were all the same, AF and AF-S. Single frame focus on stationary subjects works perfectly. I guess it's just my copy, some people I know claim they get significantly better results.</p>

<p>Definitely.</p>

<p>I will probably continue using it after getting a D3.</p>

<p>I just re-glued the grips to the body. They are still in good condition, I don't feel like paying for a replacement just because Nikon decided to save a few pennies using an adhesive that is so obviously not up to the task.</p>

<p>This has happened to some of my other Nikon gear, such as the rubber cover on the head release button on the SB600 flash, and the rubber on the card cover on the D2x. Just glued them back as well.</p>

<p>My older gear still has the rubber grips perfectly attached after decades of use.</p>