jim_higgins4

<p>Yes, I know about Adorma and B&H but sometimes I am looking for a CF card on the run and<br>

it is slim pickins. I will stick to San Disk and Kingston.</p>

<p>There are few CF cards these days, it seems, at Frys and other local outlets.<br>

I have noticed a new brand, MONSTER. Anyone have experience with these CF cards?</p>

 

<p>I am going to Alaska in June with my 5-year old D-300 and several lenses (70-300, 11-16, 18-200). I want to buy a second body so I am not switching out lenses in a hurry. I wonder if the body quality is as important as the quality of the lens. I can buy a D3100 for $345 at Sams or a D-7000 for $700 at ibcart,com. I honestly don't think I will need a second body after Alaska but I am hesitant to rent a body. So, if I have good glass (Tokina 11-16, Nikon 18-200, Tamron 70-300 and a 50mm 1.2 old Nikon lens), does the body matter than much? </p>

<p> </p>

<p>I received two slightly different batteries with my new Nikon D-300 three years ago but have noticed one<br>

battery drains fast---4 or 5 shots on a full charge and than it is spent. That is the BP-EL3e (7.4V, 2100mAh) However, the other battery pack---EN-EL3e (7.4V, 1500mAh) holds up for a long run of maybe 300 or more pictures. I had not noticed that the batteries had different mAh until recently. Could be the higher mAh was discharges faster. Not sure the reason but I will be replacing the 1500mAh pack and pitching the other one.<br>

Where is the best place to buy replacement battery packs?</p>

<p>Jim</p>

<p>My wife is looking to upgrade from her Canon Elph to a Nikon P100.<br>

I have compared the P100 vs P500 and do not understand why the P500 is LESS than<br>

the P100. I know the P100 has a 2.8 vs. 3.5 but not sure the cost differential is worth it.<br>

I shoot with a D300 and my wife wants to experiment with greater zoom ranges and more<br>

creativity than her current Elph allows. I can't think of a good reason to choose the P100 over the<br>

cheaper but longer zoom range P500. Any thoughts?<br>

BTW: She had looked at a Canon SX230HS but likes the longer zoom range.</p>

<p>The camera is a D-300 w/18-200mm VR lens.<br>

I became aware of moving the focusing ring at one point and put it back to infinity.<br>

I have since learned that 170-200mm is where I have the focusing problem.<br>

If I pull out to 150, I am okay.<br>

Not low light situations. Mostly shots from a cruise ship to structures on shore at great distance.<br>

Mode is usally P for those shot though I did try M to see if that helps. It did not.<br>

I use mostly P and A but don't think I left it on A priority when shooting long telephoto.<br>

Metering mode is mostly Matrix (center option). AF-On I jump back and forth as I am not clear on this button.<br>

Focus mode is usually Continuous.<br>

I think the focus ring may have been the culprit though with AF, is that really an issue?<br>

Appreciate all your input. I plan to experiment at various focal lengths and mode settings to solve this<br>

problem before my next trip.</p>

 

<p>Recently, I noticed that focusing at 200mm on my 18-200 is a problem.<br />Whereas I used to be able to pinpoint an object at 200mm and see it focus in, I now try to focus at 200 and rather than see a clear image focused, I see an image that is out of focus. I pull out a bit and all is in focus. I am thinking that I inadvertently toggled one of the controls. Or perhaps it is something else.</p>

<p>I have a D300 and SB-600 and was thinking of purchasing a Blue Crane Digital video on both pieces of equipment.<br>

I know the manual covers the same territory but I learn best from watching. Can anyone either recommend this series<br>

or another one?</p>

<p>Jim</p>

<p>Shot a group photo this week and noticed I had 3 different photos in one frame. What did I toggle in error<br>

on my D300 with SB-600 to create this multiple exposure? I did not intend to do it.</p>

<p>Explorer 46</p>

<p> </p>

<p>What is the difference in quality and verstatility of the two similar Tamron 28-75 2.8 lenses for Nikoon DSLRs?</p>

 

<p>I thought I had a focusing problem with my D300 w/ 18-200 VR (3.5) but I think it is something else, something that got inadvertently toggled awhile back and I can't figure it out. When I am shooting w/flash (SB-600) a simple 3-person shot or a CU of a performer, I press down on the shutter but it does not respond. Not a focus issue as I believe I am in focus. Yesterday, at a Jerry Jeff Walker concert (night with flash) I had multiple incidents of the shutter refusing to fire. I had to keep turning the camera on and off quickly and maybe got one or two bursts off before same thing happened. I have been in both Continuous and Single mode but same thing. Is this similar to the focusing problem others are having?</p>

<p>Jim Higgins</p>

<p>I have an older (35mm film) Sigma 28-70 2.8 with Nikon mount. If there is a similar Sigma lens exclusively for digital SLR (D300), what am I losing by using the older film lens on my D300?</p>

<p>Jim H</p>

<p>I have one with a Minolta mount but now shoot Nikons. I would love to find a way to convert it to my Nikon D300. I would hate to give it up and may buy a roll of film and shoot something with my older Minolta. It is a great lens.</p>

<p>I have a 1970s era Vivitar Series 1 90mm 2.5 Macro on my old Minolta camera.<br>

Can it be converted to a Nikon mount to use with my D300 or is it a paper weight?</p>

<p>Jim</p>

<p>Lately, my D300 shutter will not release when I focus in on a subject. Even using an external flash with plenty of light, I depress the shutter and it does not respond. Camera does not seem to have a focusing problem but maybe I inadvertently toggled something off. Any ideas? I was using my 18-200 3.5 with ASA at 800 and using a flash, too.</p>

<p>Jim</p>

<p>I have a D300 and noticed recently that often when I shoot, the camera has trouble finding a focus point and the shutter will not release despite me holding it down for several interminable seconds. What is going on here? I know, I need to reread the manual but surely someone knows this issue well.<br>

Jim</p>

 

<p>Found it. Thanks guys.</p>

<p>I can't find the serial number on my Nikon VR 18-200 3.5 bought from Abe's of Maine last September.<br>

I am going on a trip and wanted to insure my camera and lens. I have read forum posts from two years ago but there is no engraving on my lens barrel, ring or elsewhere. I give up. Where is it hiding? Maybe it is gray market and has no#</p>

<p>Jim</p>

<p>Thanks for knocking some sense into me. The D300 is going on the cruise. Besides the 18-200 walking around lens, I can bring one other AF lens with me and it will probably be my 50mm 1.4.</p>

<p>I plan to take my D300 with 18-200 VR 3.5 on a two week trans Atlantic cruise in April (Galveston-Bermuda-Azores-Cork-Cherbourg-Southampton).While I don't plan on taking many photos on board, I wonder about protection from the salt air when I do go on deck. A more philosophical question concerns the photo opportunities in the various ports (all daylight shooting)and whether I would be better just taking along a point and shoot digital (my Canon G3) for on board and save the D300 for land shots. Or, maybe leave the D300 at home and stick with the G3 as most ports of call leave little time for photo adventures.<br>

Jim</p>

 

At the suggestion of this forum, I bought an SB-600 to go on my borrowed D-70.

I am shooting a friend's second wedding (small service, shots from my seat

mostly, some posed

with wedding party) with a borrowed D-70 w/18-70mm 3.5 lens. I have no camera

bracket so I have to shoot the flash on the camera. One suggestion was I bring

along my 50mm 1.4, and shoot available light, but for shots from my seat as

they move down and out the aisle, I think zoom gives me best options. Am I

crazy? Is this doable with a slower 3.5 or 4.5 lens? As I cannot change lenses

for the entrance/exit, I can choose the best lens for the set-up shots. Should I

go with the

50mm 1.4 for those OR stick with the kit lens (18-70mm 3.5) and flash? Also, do

I need to make any mode or + and - adjustments on my SB-600 or just go with the

flow? I am a novice at wedding photography but am doing this with no great

expectations on the part of the friend who understands my lack of experience.

 

Jim Higgins

I feel like Frozen Caveman Photographer. Let me see if I understand your ways.

The discussion recently about the 50mm 1.4 vs. 1.8 was about the lens I already own---AF 50mm 1.4 used previously on my Nikon 8008. Since most of the discussion in the forum is around digital lenses and cameras, I assumed there was a parallel universe and a 50mm digital lenses lived there. So, if I understand correctly, I have the 50mm lense that I need on my D70 or D300. All my other AF lenses are fully functional on a digital body but with the 1.5 cropping issue understood. So, now my search has narrowed to a good wide angle and a good long telephoto because I can use all my AF lenses (28, 85, 50, 70-210, 105) on my borrowed D70 and soon to purchase D300. I think I get it now,

 

Jim "Caveman" Higgins

Recent discussion about the Nikon 50mm (1.4 vs 1.8) has me confused as to

whether we are talking about a digital lens or film lens. If a film lens, then

isn't it closer to a 75mm? I own a 50mm 1.4 AF lens that I assume if I put on my

D300 or D70 will "become" a 75mm lens and thus lose that fixed

50mm. But if I want a true 50mm lens on a D300, I have to buy the digital

version of the 50mm. Is that correct?

 

Jim Higgins

I am using a friends D-70 with a Nikkor 18-70 3.5 lens to shoot a small wedding

(second time around for both) for another friend gratis.

I have an old SB-25 flash but I thought I read where it will only

work in Manual or Program with the D-70. I recall shooting a large group inside

with the D70 and this same flash face forward and everyone was burned in white.

So, I am nervous about doing the same thing again. I do have some other Nikon

and Sigma 35mm lenses---70-210mm 4.5, 28mm, 85mm 1.8, 50mm 1.4, 28-70 2.8---but

think I should stick with the 18-70mm kit lens that came with the D70. I can't

go out and buy an SB-600 or 800 for this event.

 

What would be a safe setting on the SB-25 (Auto, Manual, TTL) to work with the D70?

And what setting should I use on the D70---M or P?

 

Jim Higgins

Doh! Talk about feeling stupid.

It was the push/pull zoom. It had been a long time since I used it. Thanks for all the help. You are right about it not being a true 315mm. I went to a nearby Wolf/Ritz Camera

and tried it on the D300 and voila!

 

 

Jim