chris_adams11

<p>f/2.8 for sure. the last thing you want is to not have enough light and not be able to get the shot.</p>

<p>I own both and have thought about getting rid of one but they each have their purpose. Actually I realized the other day that I have 3 overlapping lenses.<br />24-70L, 17-40L, 35L<br>

To be honest none can do what the others can etc. The 24-70 is a good walk around lens or studio lens, the 35L is great for those low light shots at night or when you want to travel light, the 17-40 is for wide angle but @ f/4 so bring the flash. All of these lenses cover 35mm but do it very differently.<br>

If I had to keep only one it would be th 24-70 hands down, but if given the choice all three serve their purpose quite well.</p>

<p>I like DPP because it is designed by the company that makes the camera. It will also maintain any sharpness, color or other settings you set when you took the shot. In ACR it gives you pretty much a blank slate, although this may have changed as their newest release had quite a few upgrades.<br>

Either way it's a matter of personal preference and what you are comfortable with, either one will get the job done and do it well.</p>

<p>Send it to Canon! It's new and as long as they can get it back to you before Africa that is the best move. I wouldnt mess with it too much.</p>

I think the black 135L will be much better choice. With the other primes you have you can always pop the 50mm on when you are in small markets etc. The 70-200 will be large, heavy and obvious. Just my 2 cents.

It is faster likely because of the wider aperture. The 35 L is a nice indoor wedding lens.

This message goes out to all the bird photographers in Wisconsin!

 

We've started a forum for all the midwestern bird enthusiasts and want to get some more folks in there. We hope the

forum will provide info for all the wisconsin area bird photographers to chat.

 

We have shooters from a wide span of the midwest checking in to answer any questions about where the birds are

and their latest shots. If you have a free minute please check it out.

 

Chris

 

http://www.birdingwisconsin.com

Walk away!

Yeah the only way to go for birds is the 500. For small birds you need all the reach you can get.

http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=277475&highlight=35L

 

Here is a link to a long thread just for this lens. I own it as well and think it is useable a 1.4, but to call it super sharp would be a mistake. I dont think anything is super sharp wide open at such apertures. I've heard the 85 1.2 L is pretty sharp wide open but dont have the nerve to spend that kind of moola.

 

Chris

As has been said its really your call. I use the vertical grip all the time and it is the only way to go when shooting vertical with 2lb lenses and heavier. As for controls I use the main dial to switch af points on the fly and can reach in either position. These are all my reasons but it needs to work for you. Good luck in the decision making.

Not sure why my previous post just says link. Its a link to a canon forum with software to check this.

http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=284571&highlight=1d+shutter+count+software

It does sound a lot like the XTi camera. Of course the speed it too fast to be an XTi though. Personally I think the 40d sounds nicer.

Yes that is normal. It is smooth because it doesnt actually connect to any mechanical parts like most other manual focus systems. It is fly by wire as mentioned so being all digital the camera just reads the movement and then starts the focus. You can probably tell that sometimes the manual focus is a little slower as well because of this.

Something else you could do is shoot full res jpegs which would give you more pixels to crop from.

That does sounds strange. I've never heard of anything like this from any photographer. Send it to Canon

I will almost always pick my focus point and move it around depending on where the subject is. With the 9 point autofocus on there is no telling what the camera is focusing on. If there is something in the backround with a little more contrast it might pick that up. I would stick to using a single point and your results should be better.

Have you customized what buttons start the IS. In the custom functions you can change it so that a half press on the shutter doesnt activate IS. If you haven't messed with the default settings though you likely shouldn't have this issue. You might try setting the camera back to default as well just for troubleshooting sake.

I thought some of Tamron's newer lenses with the Internal Focusing were faster. I've not used one of the newer lenses but might test my theory at the local camera shop when I am there later today.