apragmaticoptimist

<p>Thanks for the very helpful responses thus far. I have a lot to learn about flash photography. <br>

I forgot to mention that I also have the Raynox DCR-150 macro converter that I plan to use on the DA 55-300. This is my compromise to not having a true Macro lens just yet.<br>

I'll check out the 21mm you mention. I was thinking that I really would want a wider angle. <br>

Thanks much.... I look forward to any additional replies.</p>

<p >I'm heading to Costa Rica next month and need to get a flash for low light outdoor photography. This will be for wildlife as well as macro. It seems to me that having a swivel head may not really be that critical since I'm not likely to be trying to bounce light of a side wall... there won't be many walls outside ;-). However, I'm completely new to other than pop-up flash photography, so I could be missing something.<br>

I'm currently considering the following: <br /><br />Pentax AF-360 FGZ <br />Metz 48 AF-1 <br /></p>

<p >And I would also consider the Pentax AF-540FGZ if someone convinces me I really need that swivel head or if it is that much better than the others for additional reasons that would be relevant to my type of wildlife photography. I like to photograph birds and also insects and plant life.</p>

<p >I am also trying to keep my kit as lightweight as possible. I plan to have the following with me:</p>

<p >K20D <br />DA 55-300 <br />An older 28mm manual lens - Auto Chinon <br />Monopod (maybe tripod, but certainly my monopod) <br />Spare battery for K20D <br />A point and shoot camera just in case <br />And other bits and pieces like memory cards and such</p>

<p >Any feedback from fellow nature and macro photographers or any other photographers would be appreciated.<br>

Thank you!<br>

Andrea</p>

Shun, thanks for helping me understand the difference between the D60 and D80. I'm definitely leaning toward the Canon 40D. Will my 35-105mm 1:4.5-5.6 be useful for macro photography?

 

Thanks,

andrea

Out of curiosity, I have a Canon zoom lens EF 35-105mm 1:4.5-5.6. I believe I acquired this in the second half of '93 or early '94. Does anyone know anything about this lens? I got it when I got my Canon EOS Rebel S film camera. What would it be best suited for regarding nature photography?

 

Thanks!

Thanks, Abner. I'm leaning toward the 40D and the 100-400L, so it's good to hear that you're having good luck with that combination shooting birds.

 

Thanks,

Andrea

Hello all, thanks for the excellent info. I will have someone with me on my trip to CR so that will help. However, I still want to be practical and be able to carry as much as I can myself. Thank you, Cecelia, for the tips on securing the equipment while traveling including giving the airlines a heads up about wanting to stay with my equipment. As has been mentioned, this will be about some degree of compromise. So I should start with a set of lenses that will be useful to me me no matter what body I use as the years go by. And for starting out, I do think I should consider a lighter weight body and lens combo for the trip per Nolan's suggestion (and others). I have one question - Nikon D60 and D80 - what's the real difference between the two? Also, it appears they do not have Live View. Is that very important for bird photography? I almost always use the view finder now anyway. I do have a nice monopod, so the suggestion abut a Nikon D80 with 70-300 f4-5.6 VR + teleconverter sounds like a good idea. I would just like to understand the difference between the D60 and D80. The D300 is certainly heavier. Ultimately, I can definitely have a longer prime lens when I'm out doing local birding. We get great birds where we live (eagles, osprey, herons, egrets, storks, warblers, woodpeckers, the list goes on). I just need to compromise a bit on my trips abroad I think.

Thanks!

Nick,

I do have one Canon 35-105mm zoom lens, but that's all the Canon I have and that is no big deal. I have no Nikon lenses. I do indeed think the Pentax K20D looks like a great camera for the money. I do intend to consider it. The Nikon you mention is slightly heavier than all the rest I'm considering, though I don't know if it is enough to worry about. Many have said that Canon and Nikon are the top two used by serious bird photographers, so that's why I'm considering Canon. I imagine it's going to boil down to trade-offs in the end between weight and capabilities.

 

Thanks.

Thanks, everyone. Excellent information. One more thing: Other than following common sense, do you have any recommendations on securing such valuable equipment when traveling around Central America (or anywhere else for that matter) on birding trips? I generally travel very light, so I'm not used to having to secure anything larger than a passport and a point and click camera :-)

Rick, I love the hummer photo. I get ruby-throats every year. I'd love to get

a shot like that. Thanks for the feedback. Ilkka, thanks much for your

response. I do have some good binoculars, Gerry, but not the Pentax ones you

mention. I'm going to check out the Oly E-520 as soon as it's available. I'm

also considering the Pentax k20d and the Canon (40D or XSi). I don't think I

will bring Nikon into the fray just yet. Here is a link to a Barred Owl photo I

took in low light with my good old Oly C740 Ultra Zoom. The light was coming

from behind so I did have to lighten it up afterward.

http://picasaweb.google.com/andreabwilliams/BestOfStAugustine2008/photo?authkey=Be2P6xhSopQ#5212823460121560306

 

 

I've outgrown this camera but have had a lot of fun with it over the years.

 

Here is another shot of a Wood Stork:

http://picasaweb.google.com/andreabwilliams/BestOfStAugustine2008/photo?authkey=Be2P6xhSopQ#5212821421593619106

 

 

Imagine if I had had a real DSLR with me when that Wood Stork was being so

cooperative?

 

(Sorry if the links don't come over as links... Not sure how to do that on this

forum)

 

Thanks!

Thanks, Douglas. Intriguingly I had a Ritz camera employee tell me that their Nikon Rep said Pentax was laying lots of people off. So he was clearly trying to warn me about Pentax. He thinks they will be acquired down the road. Funny how a Nikon rep is saying stuff like that. I'm not ruling the Pentax out yet. I'm going to try to upload a couple of photos I took with my Olympus C740 Ultra Zoom. A fun little camera, but I've outgrown it.<div></div>

Greg S, thanks to you and Lannie for the feedback on the Canon's 300mm f/4. Joe

also mentioned a 300mm f/4. One B&H reviewer on the Canon lens said he was able

to shoot an osprey overhead as well as flowers and butterflies on the ground.

That seems pretty darn versatile. I have a very lightweight tripod, but might be

too "lightweight" in capabilities. I have a very nice Manfroto monopod, that I'm

very fond of. Thanks very much for the tips! Oh, from a weather resistant

standpoint, if one is careful, does a Canon EOS XSi or Canon 40D hold up ok in

Panama and Costa Rica (I'm planning to go to Panama the following year)? Seems

I read somewhere that the 40D does have some extra seals on the battery and

storage compartments. The 40D does have ISO 3200 as well, though I'm not sure

yet how critical that will be for me over the XSi given the XSi is lighter

weight (by slightly less than a pound, so not sure how big a deal that is either).

 

Sadly, I cannot find anywhere around me that rents camera equipment. So I won't

be able to seriously try before I buy unless I can find a local friend with

relevant equipment.

 

Thanks again folks. I love this forum.

Kurt, that's a stunning photo. Thanks for the tip about the Sunday Bird thread!

Thanks, Douglas, for the Pentax info and tips regarding Costa Rica (books, too- that's very helpful). The Pentax K20D looks interesting. I know getting birds in flight is going to take much practice, but on my last field trip I was getting better at it. If I have a good arrangement for carrying my equipment where I'm not putting uneven stress on my back, I think I will be generally ok. Thanks to all for the lens pointers and also the fact that the Canon cropped sensor with a teleconverter can provide excellent effective focal length. And thanks for the rainforest tips, too. The Pentax K20D is weather resistant. I think I saw a Canon that had a sealed battery and storage compartment, but not sure how weather resistant in general compared to the Pentax. I'll check into that. John, I'll try to avoid the seasickness part on boat trips and stick to having fun. :) I'm going to see about renting some equipment to get a feel for weight and my own limitations. Thanks everyone for all of the detailed advice!

Thanks very, very much for the detailed responses. I am going to look into options for renting a camera and long lens so that I can use in the field and get a better idea of my limitations and camera/lens capabilities. I do indeed need to consider the environment when I'm out. I live in a humid area and also tend to visit humid areas. However, going all out with a ruggedized body is going to certainly add weight that I probably need to avoid. So taking care with how I protect the equipment is going to be important. Field tests sound like an extremely wise move given my situation. I don't know that I will go greater than 8X10 any time soon, but who knows. Leandro, thanks for taking time to address each item in my post. Brent - thanks for the specs on your recent purchase. Thanks again to you all. I do appreciate your time and responses.

I'm posting here as well as in the Nature section. I am an avid birdwatcher and

love photographing my feathered friends, which can be very challenging. I'm

planning to purchase my first DSLR camera this year prior to a trip to Costa

Rica at the end of the year. I want to take my new purchase with me to

photograph wildlife in CR. So, the qualities I consider important are:

 

1. Weight - I have back issues and don't want to lug more weight around than

necessary. This is a VERY important factor for me since I will be outside

looking for birds on very long walks.

 

2. Sharpness/resolution - I don't think this will matter much among the cameras

Iﾒm considering, but since I'm shooting often faraway subjects, I want to be

able to take pictures that are as sharp as possible so that I can crop and get

the best results. The 4/3rds system appeals to me since I can take a 200mm lens

and get effectively 400mm out of it.

 

3. Action shots - I like taking photos of birds doing things rather than just

sitting around. Behavior is a lot more interesting to me than still shots.

 

4. I think that autofocus speed is important since the bird may not hang around

on the branch waiting for my camera to focus.

 

5. I do like macro photography as well - when the birds aren't around, I tend to

focus on the tiny things around me like insects, reptiles, or flowers.

 

6. Ruggedness - If I'm going to be traipsing around jungles and be outdoors in

general, I need a camera body as well as lens options that can take the "heat"

or, more importantly, the humidity.

 

7. Image Stabilization - Given I'm shooting birds, this would seem to be very

important. Is in-body IS better?

 

8. Price - I'm willing to shell out a pretty good sum for this camera. I'd like

it to be one that I can use for many years to come. I want to get into a system

that I can grow with and not need to start over again in a couple of years.

However, I'm not a professional photographer, so I guess I don't need to go

crazy with this purchase.

 

Is the Four Thirds system a good long-term investment? I've seen comments

related to the financial stability of the camera division of Olympus but haven't

found any confirmed sources to support that yet. It seems other bird

photography professionals are predominantly with Nikon or Canon. I do have one

Canon lens, but that doesn't mean I'm stuck on that brand.

 

I'm still a novice to serious photography, so I would also love to hear if I'm

missing out on any important considerations. Thanks!

Having a little trouble finding information on Olympus and their camera division as far as financial stability. I think it is a very valid point that I should research since I want to go down the right path while still giving lots of "weight" to the weight factor. (sorry, pun intended) Since Canon does have lighter weight bodies, this might make the most long-term sense.

To clarify my existing situation, the only modern lens I have is a Canon zoom

lens that I bought with my original Canon EOS Rebel 35 mm film camera. So I

really do not have a commitment to a brand with only one Canon lens. I'm

getting pretty serious about this hobby now. I seem to have a knack for it from

what I've been told. So that's why I want to be sure I buy into something that

will be a long-term investment. Good point about Olympus as far as company

stability goes. I will research that point and the lenses available with an

Olympus camera. Leica, Olympus and Sigma have compatible lenses in the market

for the Four Thirds system. Thanks!

Thanks, Don. Very good point on the lens consideration. So this makes me think that going Olympus is a good choice since (if I understand it correctly) the Four Thirds system would allow me to have a 300 mm focal length lens (so lighter weight than a 500mm) but would cover about the same angle of view as a 600 mm focal length lens for the 35 mm film standard. Does that seem logical or am I missing a critical point here? Thanks again for the quick response and advice on the lens factor.

I am an avid birdwatcher and love photographing my feathered friends, which can

be very challenging. I'm planning to purchase my first DSLR camera this year

prior to a trip to Costa Rica at the end of the year. I want to take my new

purchase with me to photograph wildlife in CR. So, the qualities I consider

important are:

 

1. Weight - I have back issues and don't want to lug more weight around than

necessary. This is a VERY important factor for me since I will be outside

looking for birds on very long walks.

2. Sharpness/resolution - I don't think this will matter much among the cameras

Iﾒm considering, but since I'm shooting often faraway subjects, I want to be

able to take pictures that are as sharp as possible so that I can crop and get

the best results. The 4/3rds system appeals to me since I can take a 200mm lens

and get effectively 400mm out of it.

3. Action shots - I like taking photos of birds doing things rather than just

sitting around. Behavior is a lot more interesting to me than still shots.

4. Autofocus speed is important since the bird may not hang around on the branch

waiting for my camera to focus.

5. I do like macro photography as well - when the birds aren't around, I tend to

focus on the tiny things around me like insects, reptiles, or flowers.

6. Ruggedness - If I'm going to be traipsing around jungles and be outdoors in

general, I need a camera body as well as lens options that can take the "heat"

or, more importantly, the humidity.

7. Image Stabilization - Given I'm shooting birds, this would seem to be very

important. Is in-body IS better?

8. Price - I'm willing to shell out a pretty good sum for this camera. I'd like

it to be one that I can use for many years to come. I want to get into a system

that I can grow with and not need to start over again in a couple of years.

However, I'm not a professional photographer, so I guess I don't need to go

crazy with this purchase.

 

I'm still a novice to serious photography, so I would love to hear if I'm

missing out on any important considerations in the list above.

 

So it seems the Pentax K200D (a bit weighty), the soon to be Olympus E-520, and

the Canon EOS Rebel Xti are likely candidates for me. However, I may be

shortchanging myself here... should I be stepping up to a more expensive,

serious camera? The weight factor led me to the Canon and Olympus choices. The

Pentax just seemed a good camera for the money since it had in-body IS, but it

is heavier.

 

I would appreciate any feedback/guidance to ensure I'm considering all of the

right qualities in a camera given my back problem and my intended subjects.

Many thanks.

I'm happy to report that the auto aperture on the Chinon lens seems to be working fine with the Fujica ST605. No over exposures in the film I developed. Thanks everyone for your advice.

 

Best,

Andrea

Thank you for all of the responses. I do have an exposure meter button on the Fujica ST605. When I set the Chinon lenses to Auto, the aperture is fully open. I can then use the meter button to set the appropriate shutter speed and aperture to the point where the needle in the viewfinder is centered. When I press the meter button, it definitely changes (darkens) the view in the view finder when the lens is in Auto mode. Once I have everything set per the meter, then I can take the photo. I haven't gotten the film developed yet, so we will see if these shots come out correctly exposed or overexposed. Then I will know if the Fujica is supporting the Auto mode of the Chinon lenses.

 

Thanks again!

Thanks, Tim. I do have that manual already, and it tells me all about the Fujica camera body. I should have been more specific in my post. That manual doesn't tell me how to use the A/M feature of the Auto Chinon lenses. So I'm not sure if the Fujica ST605 will work with Auto Aperture (assuming that's what it is) or how to properly use it if it will. Anyone know of any instructions on using the Auto Chinon lenses?

 

Thanks.

As posted previously, I have inherited a Fujica ST605 with an Auto Chinon 28 mm

and Auto Chinon 200mm. These lenses have a switch to go from M to A (manual to

auto I must assume). Forgive my ignorance of traditional cameras, but I'm

guessing this is auto exposure... is that correct? Are there any user manuals

for these lenses or any online instructions? I'm not sure how to take

advantage of the "auto" feature of these lenses with the Fujica body.

 

When I search photo.net I get tons of forum posts but I haven't found

instructions for this topic yet. I may not be using the best search terms to

find them if they are out there.

 

Thanks in advance for your help.

Thanks, Sparks! I'm planning to have lots of fun with them.

Rob, to your point, I do indeed plan to just use the Fujica for the bird rookery. I'm not going jump into the DSLR purchase just yet without some more research. I ordered a tripod last night, so armed with that and the trusty Fujica, I hope to get some good shots.

 

I will check out the m42 2x teleconverter. More reach at the rookery would probably be very handy. The wood storks and spoon bills are at the tops of some rather tall trees. Thanks for the suggestion!

 

Having all of these lenses got me thinking that it would be nice to find a DSLR body that would work for them, hence my original posting.

 

Frank, thanks for the Pentax suggestion.

 

Patrick, I discovered the 420 in my searches last night, and it really does look very impressive. I'm also looking at the Olympus E-510 because it has the in-body image stabilization.

 

This is a great forum - I really appreciate everyone's input.