rubo

<p>Bought an XSi & a 60D, both refurb. Not a single problem.<br>

If you are concerned about the warranty, you can always buy an extended service contract.<br>

I think I paid around $80 for a 3 year, for the XSi, didn't even bother getting one for the 60D.</p>

<p>Well, if you want to compare "same generation" cameras with different pixel density, you should compare 1Dx to 5D III.<br>

Guess which will have better high ISO performance?</p>

<p>Here's a link:<br>

<a href="http://the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/ISO-12233-Sample-Crops.aspx?Lens=458&Camera=673&Sample=0&FLI=0&API=7&LensComp=458&CameraComp=479&SampleComp=0&FLIComp=0&APIComp=7">http://the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/ISO-12233-Sample-Crops.aspx?Lens=458&Camera=673&Sample=0&FLI=0&API=7&LensComp=458&CameraComp=479&SampleComp=0&FLIComp=0&APIComp=7</a></p>

<p>It's not a 7D to 20D, it's a 7D to 5D Mkii.<br>

Same lens, EF 200mm f/2.0 L IS USM @ f/16</p>

<p>You can play with different lenses & cameras on this page to see the difference.</p>

<p>Guys, play nice :-)<br>

I actualy learned something from both of you, so hate to see this thread become useless.</p>

<p>Well Scott, that pretty much answered my question :-)</p>

<p>Michael, i agree, "who does that?" :-). i honnestly don't remember the last time i printed any of my images myself, but my friends sometime do.</p>

<p>This is just a hobby for me and something i like to do when i am finaly able to get out of NYC when fishing, hiking, camping etc.<br>

I wish i could make a living doing this, but so far i have to found a way to do so :-)</p>

<p>Michael,<br>

i see what you are saying about small format film.</p>

<p>BUT what do you think of something like 8x10 view camera @ f/64 ?<br>

Surely Ansel Adams and the rest of group f/64 weren't fools for shooting @ those appertures.<br>

I know even with the biggest digital back today we are no were near that, and lugging around a view camera is not a very practical solution, but i can dream, right :-)</p>

<blockquote>

<p>As you increase the sensor resolution beyond the diffraction blur, all that happens is that the sharpness stops improving. It's like hitting a blur wall which is the next weakest link in the chain. If that is what you mean by "apparent" then the answer would be yes.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>That's exactly what i mean :-)<br /> With the 60D + 28-135mm on a very good tripod, focused using live view, using remote release and mirror lockup, i'm starting to see a progressive drop in sharpness when going past f/11. Past f/16 "diffraction blur" is "apparent" enough for me not to shoot @ those appertures.<br /> When i had Rebel XTi (using the same lens, same scene, same composition) the resulting images @ f/16 (although not as sharp as @ f/11) did not "appear" to be as affected by a "difrraction blur" and look much shrper.</p>

<p>I know the anti-aliasing filter on the 60D is stronger compared to XTi, but again shooting @ f/8 the images look almost indistinguishable from the two bodies.</p>

<p>Ty,<br>

That's exactly what i do :-)<br>

Conditions permiting, i always try to shoot between f/8 and f/11, when i shoot landscapes.</p>

<p>But some times you need more DoF than that and that's when i start to think i may need to get an MF film camera, but don't have enough $ to do that right now :-)</p>

<p>Ok, let's see if i car word it correctly.<br /> The higher the pixel density/MP count for a given sensor size, the more "visibly apparent" become the effect of a "diffraction blur" for a given apperture (past a certain apperture).</p>

<p>Would this be a correct way to word it?</p>

<p>If you will be shooting mostly past f/8 the regular 70-300mm and the DO are both very good opticaly, what you gaing with the L is an amaisingly fast and accurate focus, one stop better IS(compared to the regular), weather sealing and build quality (it's litteraly built like a tank).</p>

<p>If you want to shoot wide open the L is much, much sharper than the other two. Don't know if it's worth 3x the price over the regulat, it's for you to decide.</p>

<p>John,<br>

I remember when i just started learning photography in the 80's with an old russian Zenith SLR and an old russian Leica knock off, the lenses had a lot more detailed information on them.<br>

But on the lenses i have now the info is pretty basic, so if i need a critical focus i just go to Live View @ 10x magnification :-)</p>

<p>Ty,<br>

You are correct, but it's irelevant to what i'm talking about.<br>

It does not matter what kind of lens you put on 60D, past f/11 the image is losing sharpnes. Once you get past f/16 it's already too soft for my taste.<br>

I have tested this with Canon 10-22mm, 15-85mm, 24-105mm L, 28-135mm, Sigma 30mm, Sigma 150mm Macro, Sigma 70-200. With all of them the smaller the aperture (past f/11) the softer the resulting image.</p>

<p>Scott and G Dan,<br>

we are esentialy saying the same thing, just because of my english (it not being my native language) we are not CLEARLY understanding each other :-)</p>

<p>John,<br>

i understand the theory, but how would i do it in practice?<br>

on my 24-105mm the longest distance marked is 20ft then a little space |___ and the infinity sign and the lens has room past the sign also.<br>

So how would i set the focus for lets say 470ft?</p>

<p>Michael,<br>

not sure if i agree with the amout of detail lost after "diffracion blur" becomes apparent, but i do agree it starts to blur the shot significantly & it looks "fuzzy".</p>

<p>Thank again, every day i learn something new :-)</p>

<p>John,<br>

About the first link, while the main calculations seem to be correct, i'm having a hard time understanding the "hyperfocal distance" and the recomended focusing distance.<br>

How are you suppose to use that in real life?</p>

<p>G Dan,<br>

But isn't the "diffraction blur" more pronounced the higher the pixel density of the sensor (i.e. the higher the resolution)?<br>

So, for a 12MP 5D you would start to notice the effects of the "diffraction blur" @ f/13, while for a 21/22MP 5D Mkii/5D Mkiii it would be around f/10.<br>

Or am i missing something?</p>

<p>I know for a fact, a picture taken with 60D is visualy softer (viewing at 100% magniffication on a computer screen) @ f/16 compared to the same picture @ f/8, does not matter which lens i use.</p>

<p>Thanks, everyone.<br>

I know full well how the "diffraction limit" of f/6.9 for 60D does not mean "don't shoot" at smaller f-stops.<br>

All that is happening the sharpness gradualy decreases after that and i for myself find the loss in sharpness after f/11 to be tad too much of a trade of.<br>

I'm not saying the images are useless after that, just not good enough for me. i have shot past f/11 if i want to have a certain look or effect or feel or what ever you want to call it, but it's not something i will do if i can avoid it :-)</p>

<p>Scott,<br>

that was very interesting, i had not come accross the article before. Now my head is even more messed up :-)</p>

<p>Thanks again, everyone :-)</p>

<p>Hi all,<br>

my math is a little rusty on the subject, so i need your help.</p>

<p>Right now i have a 60D.<br>

When i'm shooting landscapes i mostly keep the lenses @ f/8-11, more than that diffraction blur tends to become obvious.</p>

<p>So here is my question:<br>

After i get the 5d Mkiii, what would be the right f/stop to get the same DoF i'm getting right now lets say @ f/8 on a 60D, assuming the framing is the same , so instead of 30mm on a 60D (which is 48mm equivalent on FF) it would be 50mm?</p>

<p>Thanks for any help.</p>

<p>Thanks Bob, that makes sense.<br />Still, this is the first time i'm seriously thinking of going FF.<br>

Two of my main gripes with 5D MkII have been addressed (slow FPS and anemic AF), better weather sealing was just an icing on the cake :-) <br>

I'll wait untill fall for the prices to settle a bit, maybe make myself a present for my b-day :-)</p>

<p>I'll have to trade in my Sigma 30mm for the 50mm when i do.</p>

<p>Bob, i'm curious, how is 1Dx weather sealing better then 5D MkIII?<br>

Aren't they both sealed to the level of the old 1V?</p>

<p>WOW!<br>

I'm also curious about autofocus in video.<br>

Think i'll finaly shell out the $$$ and go full frame :-)</p>

<p>Welcome,<br /> Just one question, do you want 50mm because of the "normal" FOV or you need 50mm?<br /> If it's for the "normal" FOV, than i would suggest a different focal length, because 50mm on 7D has 80mm equivalent FOV on a film/full-frame camera.<br /> "Normal" FOV on a 7D would be 28mm (44.8mm), 30mm (48mm), 35mm (56mm).</p>

<p>Sorry don't have experience with either, so can't give any adivce.</p>

<p>Just my $.02</p>

<p>I second Bueh B.<br>

Sigma 30mm f/1.4 is simply amaizing. Very sharp wide open, painfully sharp from f/2.0 up.<br>

Focus is very fast, accurate, quite and with my copy it is spot on.<br>

Blows away my EF-S 15-85mm in every aspect, except not being a zoom :-)</p>

<p>Just my $.02</p>

<p>OP, you have "Micro Focus Adjustment" - use it to callibrate the lens to your 50D.<br>

It looks like it does front focus a little, but you should be able to adjust for it in camera.</p>

<p>MFA is the main reason i decided to get 7D instead of the 60D (altho i must say, playing with it at the Canon Expo, it is A LOT of camera for a little over $1000, IMHO the only thing missing is the MFA).<br>

My XSi if front focusing with every lens i have used on it (to a different degree, but it's always off). My old 28-135mm was dead on on my XTi, never looked sharp after i got the XSi.<br>

Thinking there must be some thing wrong with the lens i got the new 15-85mm. it's a little better, but still not very sharp.</p>

<p>I was adjusting my friend's 50D with he's lenses (including my old 28-135mm) and most of them were dead on on the 50D, only 2 of them needed adjustment. The same lenses on my XSi are missfocused.</p>

<p>I came to a conclusion - next time, get a camera with MFA in whatever price range you are.<br>

If i can't afford 7D when i'm ready to buy, i'll just get a 50D. Thought it's an older camera, but at leas i'll know that when i focus on some thing it will be focused correctly. And if the picture is still not sharp or is out focus, than it's not the camera/lens problem but the idiot behined it :-)<br>

Just my $.02</p>

<p>I was at the Expo too and the 4K camera they had was increadible.<br>

It didn't have a battery nor a recording medium (was hooked up to a cable going somewhere), but the resolution and the zoom range (7-140mm) were awe insipiring.<br>

There was a lot of cool stuff there. Can't wait to see some of it come to life :)</p>