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btp
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Posts posted by btp
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I currently have an older Quantum Battery Pack (QB1) and it works perfectly
with my Vivitar 283. The part of the cord I have that fits into the Vivitar
Flash is square, obviously, and basically mimics in size and shape 4 AA
batteries. I'm now considering buying either a Sigma EF 500 DG Super or a
Pentax AF540FGZ Flash. My question is, assuming that the battery compartment
for the Sigma and Pentax both have a square configuration (I'm pretty sure that
the Sigma does, not so sure about the Pentax as I haven't actually held one in
my hands, please confirm)is there any reason not to assume that I would be able
to use the same pack for these units? The pack, obviously generates the same 6
volts as 4 AA's, so as long as the cord fits... it should be fine, right?
Thanks,
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Can I get off camera TTL with an AF-540FGZ flash and my *istDS? If so, what
accessories do I need? Will the Off Camera Shoe Adapter F, the Hot Shoe
Adapter FG and the F5P 3' Extension Cord (as pictured here) work the same for
my digital camera as for my film camera? I know this seems like an elementary
question, but I can't seem to find anyone who can confim it for me before I
make the investment.
Thanks
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I know that the D-BG1 vertical grip fits the ist D, but does anyone
know if it is compatible with the DS. I read that there is a small
change in the size of the body which keeps it from fitting a DS.
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As a subscriber, I have a photo.net personal webpage. This may
sound like a dumb question, but I last updated it some time ago and
had the url I needed to get to my webpage files bookmarked. I have
since had to flatten my computer and have lost all my bookmarks.
Can someone please advise me of the procedure in updateing or
creating my photo.net personal webpage?
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I'm considering buying a Nikon CP 5700. I'm wondering if anyone has
any experience in using it with studio strobes. I know it doesn't
have a PC socket, but I have a PC adapter for the hotshoe which will
solve that issue. I just want to find out if I'm likely to fry my
new camera with it. I'm using a Novatron 400 pack, and the adapter
is not a Safe-Sync. Is there anything I need to be concerned with?
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Here is the second image. I could only post one with each response.
cheers,
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I'm not sure if this will solve your problem, but generally speaking, to achieve pure white on a background, start with something that is white and apply one and one-third stops more light to the background than your subject. Believe it or not, this is all you need to achieve pure white. Of course, it is important that the light on your background is as even as possible. To achieve even lighting on the background, make sure you diffuse the light. You don't have to get fancy here, just some parchment paper over your lights, the kind they use in bakeries, will work fine and will not burn.
To achieve a black background, try to get your subject at least 6-7 feet away from it and make sure there is a three stop difference between the light on your subject and any light falling on your background. Using an umbrella, this will be difficult because it will tend to throw alot of light in all directions, but it is not impossible if you experiment.
Both of the attached images were created using the method I've just mentioned. The white background was just a plain white piece of muslin and the black was a roll of Thunder Grey seamless.
Good Luck.
Shallow DOF w/ flashes
in Lighting Equipment
Posted