paul_langmead1

<p>This seems like a lot of trouble to me. I'd like to be able to use an intervalometer with my ELX for a composite of 25+ shots and the idea of removing the back for each one seems onerous. Is there any way to maybe disengage the winding gear temporarily (even if it means modifying a back)?</p>

<p>For the body:<br /><br /><a rel="nofollow" href="http://www.eserviceinfo.com/download.php?fileid=25977">www.eserviceinfo.com/download.php?fileid=25977</a><br /><a rel="nofollow" href="http://www.eserviceinfo.com/download.php?fileid=25978">www.eserviceinfo.com/download.php?fileid=25978</a><br /><br /></p>

<p>Or try this one for free:</p>

<p>http://www.tmax100.com/photo/pdf/hasselblad.pdf</p>

 

 

 

<p>

<p>Douglas,</p>

<p>My understanding that is that a linear Polariser will work correctly with a Pentax LX, BUT... Only if the shutter dial is set to automatic. The LX uses an off-the-film plane meter that is active DURING the exposure, with the shutter being closed only after sufficient light has reached the film.</p>

<p>Therefore, a linear polariser will render the viewfinder information offered by the LX inaccurate (as the beam-splitter is delivering light to the meter at the base of the mirror box - the LX has no meter in the prism), but the final exposure should be fine, as the mirror and beam splitter no longer comes into play.</p>

<p>The OM and F3 (as well as the Pentax super A) as far as I'm aware don't meter during the exposure, so a CP is needed.</p>

<p>This is of course pure speculation on my part...</p>

<p>You could also use an incident meter and work in manual mode (which is far more accurate than reflectance anyway), just don't forget to compensate for the 2.3-2.8 stop difference the TOP-POL costs you.</p>

<p>P</p>

 

</p>

 

 

<p>Check the film door seal first, then...</p>

<p>I had the same problem with my Polaroid back. The problem was that the Dark Flap had 'jumped a tooth' on it's gearing mechanism and wasn't closing fully. I popped it back one or two teeth till it closed properlt and the problem was fixed.</p>

 

<p>@<a href="http://www.photo.net/photodb/user?user_id=2091445">Russ Britt</a><br>

Kowa's don't use dark slides, so it won't be that.</p>

<p>My guess is the side panel seals. The mirror and dark flap mechanism on the non winder side of the camera protrudes through the side of the mirror box. If the seals are done, light spills onto the film, but not onto the frame edges. Light can get in around the strap lug mounts as they are not well sealed. Also check the seals at the top and bottom of the film door, although it's not likely the cause in this instance.</p>

<p>You can easily remove the side cover to check the state of the seals. These cameras seem fairly simple inside, so don't be afraid to pop the sides off to check on things. I would avoid doing so with the Super66 though, it's a bit more complicated.</p>

<p>P</p>

Hi Pat,

 

I too would like a copy of the book if you still have it.

 

I have a kowa six that is occasionally winding through extra frames after firing (and

doesn't stop at all in the cold). I've opened the camera before to fix it, but don't

understand the film transport/advance mechanism.

 

I tried to get your email through this site, but there seems to be a problem.

 

Thanks in advance

 

Paul ->palangmead <at> gmail.com

I have a whole pile of Kowa stuff (1 super, 2 backs, polaroid back, 55/85/150, T1/T2/T3, 45deg prism, L

grip, various screens and WLFs and a Six with a second 55), and rarely have any problems with any of it.

 

On a recent trip to the US I used the camera in extremely cold conditions and the camera would just wind

the whole roll off every time (the mirror retraction seemed really slow and sloppy too). On returning the

camera to room temp all seemed to return to normal. At this point I assumed it was a temperature issue,

gears shrinking etc.

 

Recently though my six sometimes advances through a frame rather than stopping, though it usually only

skips a single frame. It feels as if it will stop (you can hear the mechanism skip) and then seems to just go

that little bit to far, then winds through to the next stop point.

 

Is this a terminal problem, or can the camera be repaired (I'm not afraid to open the camera, I've done it a

few times already)?

 

P

My jams have never been like this. mainly because my jams were complete - meaning the

lens wont come off either, lens ring won't rotate past the stop pin.

 

To Un-jam is pretty easy:

 

Take the left side of the camera off (the one without the winder.

Manually pull back the stop pin for the lens ring. It's somewhere near the release button.

Remove the lens and wind through until cocked and you have un-jammed the camera.

 

I have had this happen twice (on a super) and both times it was a faulty lens that wouldn't

cock, so keep your lenses serviced. I have done this and been up and shooting again in 15

minutes (with a different lens of course).

 

People say that Kowas jam because of poor quality, They jam because of the auto dark flap

mechanism, which cannot allow anything to be removed from the camera unless it is

wound.

 

To the poster: I ALWAYS leave my cameras wound, sometimes for months at a time and

have never had a jam as you described. I suggest you have the mirror lifting spring

checked as I have had jams on release resulting form poor tension on this spring (in a SIX).

 

P (Super 66 and Six)