eric_l._tillman

<p>Using a UV/protective filter is a (very) personal choice - some people swear by them, some swear AT them and some people, like me, use them when needed.<br>

As with any filter, quality is key, and , like lenses, top quality commands top dollar. There are thousands of forum threads devoted to this topic, with opinions covering the spectrum - never use 'em, always use 'em, can't live without 'em. ect.<br>

Like Adrian K. I will use one in bad conditions - salt spray, blowing sand - but , in truth, the protective filter only sees the light of day once or twice a year.<br>

As to what to look for: Brand name ( B&W, Heliopan, Hoya, Marumi ) and MULTICOATING! Like the multicoating on your lens, the MC on the filter helps reduce reflections and <br>

increase light transmission.<br>

Price - expensive. Top brands are $30 - $80 USD and up, though you should be able to find one for $30 - $50 from Adorama, B&H photo/video, Calumet, and other trusted online retailers ( i have dealt with the three I mentioned for many years, and recommend them ).<br>

My advice - return the "Crystal Optics" set, do alot more research, and , if you decide you do wnat a protective filter, spen the money on a high quality, name brand filter from a reputable dealer.<br>

Hope this helps you.<br>

Regards, Eric</p>

<p>The 1nHS has a fixed reflex mirror - it does not flip up during exposure, allowing<br>

the camera to operate at up to 10 fps. The "battery grip" is not removable, IIRC.</p>

<p>according to the manual, only the L-758cine displays footcandles and lux.<br>

Quantum makes several dedicated footcandle and lux meters - about $250 to $550, IIRC.</p>

<p>For a flash/ambi meter, I would go with the Sekonic 308 - easy to use and durable.<br>

Available used for $50 - 100</p>

<p>Your "odd" PW may be a european model that works on a different radio frequency - email<br>

Pocket Wizard w/ the serial # (on label in battery compartment). <br>

Also, onside of each unit should be an FCC ID # and Canadian IC# -<br>

IF there is some other info on one, they're on two different freqs.</p>

<p>Good luck on sorting this,<br>

Eric</p>

<p>Your "odd" PW may be a european model that works on a different radio frequency - email<br /> Pocket Wizard w/ the serial # (on label in battery compartment). <br /> Also, onside of each unit should be an FCC ID # and Canadian IC# -<br /> IF there is some other info on one, they're on two different freqs.<br>

Good luck on sorting this,<br /> Eric</p>

<p>PS  sorry all, for the multiple post - my server is acting wonky!<br>

Cheers!</p>

When you compare different monolights, look at guide number in feet, not wattseconds.

The guide number will give you a better idea of the true output of the light.

The Calumet Genesis lights are a good value - I just purchased a set of

Interfit StellarX monolights from B&H and am very pleased with them, might be another

option?

Good luck,

Eric

The IS on the super-teles is tripod sensing - I leave mine on for most applications.

However, as others have noted, you must give the system time to "spool up" -

approx 1 sec. The lenses mentioned in the link Ryan provided are not equipped

with tripod sensing tech, so IS should be turned off with those lenses.

I keep the shutter release half pressed like Bill does - and always carry

extra batteries- the IS can eat up the power fast.

Hi, all.

Got my refurb from Adorama - price was 200 - 400$ less than

Ex+ used cameras I had been looking at.

As i said earlier, I'm VERY happy!

Good luck in you search.

Regards,

Eric

I purchased a refurb 1DM3 a week ago and I am 100% happy with it.

Functionally and cosmetically perfect out of the box - it even smelled

new!

Hope you have the same experience.

Regards,

Eric

Just to throw out another option - sell both the 24-70 and the 50L, buy 24L,50f1.4, and

85f1.8 . I will agree with John and Antonio about the 24-70, I would add the 85 (or 100f2, my fave)

but your scheme may work better for you.

I agree with Brian - I have never gotten an "L" lens that was soft (7 and counting).

When I have gotten a less than stellar image, I have found it to be user

error, not the lenses or cameras fault. No one I know who has the 24-70

(including myself) has had a problem with this lens.

Fabi, I have to agree with the recommendations of Dan and Gil - those kits will be cover

your needs for the near future - I would choose the Tamron 17-50 for the larger max

aperture. Or pick up a 50 1.8 for low light use.

Hi, Martin

At this time there seem to be a few glitches when using Leopard and a tethered 5D, but

other than that it works just like 10.4+.

As to the compactflash card, it is not that the Extreme 4 cards are "too fast"- the 5D's

transfer rate is just slower than the card's max speed - no sense paying for extra speed

you can't benefit from - though the Extreme 4 cards will work just fine.

I would agree w/ the idea of a fast prime - 85/1.8 or 100/2.0 are excellent

choices(personally I like the 100/2.0) but I do find that I use either the 24-70 or 24-105

quite frequently for portraits.

I have found the Lenscoat products to be well made - be prepared to spend 15-30 mins.

putting the lenscoat on the 500 (mounting foot must be removed/reattached)

Also, be ready for strange comments - Who are you spying on? Are you looking for

terrorists-can we help?(from two 8 yr old boys as I was shooting sandhill cranes in a rural

park.