stacy_f

I bought the Tamron 17-50/2.8 at the end of last year. It is a great lens. The sharpness of the lens is fantastic. At 2.8, results are good. Stop down a 1/2 stop or more and the results are hard to beat. Look at the reviews, most rave about the sharpness.

 

The build quality is decent, but it is nothing like good, expensive "L" lenses.

 

I have the Canon 24mm for my 10D and my XTi, and it was just not wide enough. The 17mm the Tamron has is the way to go.

 

Get a telephoto or a longer, quality zoom to compliment this lens and you will be set.

Thanks Andy for explaining how the mirror lockup worked on the 10d, I was not sure. It sure is different than my Canon EF (fd version).

 

When I press the shutter button on my eos 5, I can see the aperture blades close (@ f22 for example) and they will remain in that position for 10-20 seconds, and this is with fast shutter speeds.

 

Hitting the shutter button again clears it up and the aperture blades return to normal.

 

The 10d is operating normally now after I switched off the mirror lockup custom function.

I cleaned the contacts on my 50mm which did not seem to fix it. All the lenses seem to fit well on the eos 5. I suppose I could have a tech look at it. This error is happening alot on the eos 5.

My eos 5 sticks and the blinking empty battery indicator appears in the lcd screen. I push the shutter button and everything returns to normal and the battery level appears fine.

 

This happens like every 10 shots on the eos 5.

 

What is the camera's self test process seeing?

After a little fiddling with the camera, I fixed it but I am still a little confused.

 

I changed the mirror lockup back to "disable" in the custom functions menu.

 

When I enabled mirror lockup again, the blades stuck again.

 

Am I not understanding something here?

 

Why is this custom function causing the lense to do this?

I have an Eos 5 where the aperture blades on all my eos lenses will

stick for a several seconds and then unfreeze. This happens after I

take a few shots. I always thought it was a dead battery.

 

Well...

 

I just got a used 10d today and the same problem started happening. I

charged the battery up and it is still happening.

 

In all exposure modes

on all my lenses (24, 50, 85, 100-300)

at different apertures

 

Help!

 

Thanks for any replies,

 

Stacy

Thomas,

 

Check this link out at http://www.lighttools.com/technical1.html

 

Somebody posted this in another thread and I thought it was helpful.

Another scan.<div></div>

A scan from a pee-wee game. Scan is decent, but the print is real nice.<div></div>

Please, do bother. I have to disagree with the last post. OPTICS, OPTICS, OPTICS !!!!! This lens does a great job from 5.6 on. There are plenty of uses for this lens. For those who can't afford a 300mm prime this one will do till you get the cash. The newer 75-300mm zooms are inferior in the optics department, especially at 300mm. I bought mine to shoot football and baseball for my son's sports teams. Every now and then I miss a shot due to slow autofocus, but the pics are outstanding. This lens does a great job with how it renders out-of-focus objects. I've used it at the zoo and came away with killer images of flowers to put in my portfolio. Lens handling is important, but how much do you want to compromise your images? This lens is not that bad to use. I see them used between $200-$250.

Look to pay around $275-$375. Dominic is a bit extreme with his feelings towards the lens. I am sure the 70-200/4L is a great lens, but it is 100mm short of the 100-300/5.6L. I am very capable of getting great shots with this lens. I bought it for football and baseball and am very happy with it.

From articles I have read and from what people have said on this forum, the above lenses are average optic wise. They may excel in handling and focus with the IS feature or USM ring motor. If you are interested in a zoom that is sharp from 100mm to 300mm and wide open, I suggest the 100-300/5.6L. The optics on this lens are superb and you can find it from $275-$375. This zoom does not handle as well since most people do not like push-pull zooms. The focusing is not as fast as the new zooms, but these were sacrifices I was able to make to produce great looking photos. This lens is discontinued so you will have to buy it used. Good luck with whatever choice you make.

Eric,

 

Consider the Canon 100-300/5.6L. This lens is superb optics wise. The zoom is a bit outdated, slow focus and push-pull design. I love using primes and do not care for zooms, but I also was looking for some good glass around 300mm. I ended up buying one of these used (they are discontinued). You can find one for $250-$350.

I have been shooting from the sidelines at my son's pee-wee football games the last several years and would recommend 400 speed film also. I used a 400/5.6 lens, so I am used to using a slow lens. The 400 speed film will usually get you at least a 1/500 shutter speed and sometimes a 1/1000 shutter speed (at 5.6 aperture) if there are no clouds. I usually took a meter reading and set the aperture and shutter speed myself to prevent the camera meter from being fooled. The only thing you have to watch out for is when a cloud passes by and your light changes, you must remember to adjust your settings. If you did not want to fool with that, just use aperture priority. Good luck.

I think this lens would make a great "in-the-meantime" lens. I recently bought one for my Eos 5 and think the optics are superb. It does autofocus slow, however.