dee_d

<p>Not for the fainthearted , but a good Kiev 4 with it's selenium meter which harks back to 1935 is a taste of another world with an excellent 50 f2 Sonnar copy . <br>

The problem being ' good ' - most are fighting to work past years of accumulated grease and muck .<br>

My UK imported TOE Kiev 4 is exceptional for £25 , but this is pure luck . </p>

<p>I have just bought a Minolta 5000 in a somehat strorage soiled carry case with 35-80 f4 and 70-210 zoom with Hoya filters fitted , manuals , AF 2800 flash , etc for £20 !<br>

Initially , the acclaimed 70-210 ' beercan ' shunted ,so I assumed that it would have to be manual only , but a scrub on the contacts with the supplied silcon paper corrected the problem .<br>

Maybe a kit 35-80 is hardly a great find , but has excellent reviews and I used the silver version on my 404si with excellent results .<br>

I prefer the 52mm - 120mm which the crop factor suits me perfectly on the A35 and A290 .<br>

This confirms my recent return to Sony/Minolta as I can look out for inexpensive lenses .<br>

dee</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Panasonic G1 , plus tiny 35mm f 2.5 Colar Scopar along with the kit zoom , though I am not so comfortable with the EVF or screen focus .</p>

 

<p>I bought a Chinese made Leica screw adapter for my Panasonic G1 , mostly to use my 50s Summitar and Elmar and various Soviet lenses which won't focus properly on my Leica M8 [ no I am not made of money - it was a one off mad inheritance purchase , now adapted to use Russian Contax / Kiev rangefinder lenses ]<br>

The adapter has an inner , chrome ring into which the lens screws , which is fitted to the black aluminium outer bayonet by 4 grub screws - the idea being that the lens can be adjusted to be upright on the camera . However , though I works perfectly in terms of infinity focus etc , the inner ring became loose , and no amount of tightening of the screws would hold it in place . Eventually , the poor quality screws became burred .<br>

Not too much of a problem perhaps , until it came to rescuing my little CV 35mm f2.5 Color Scopar [ a perfect 70mm for me on 4/3rds ] - and I could not unscrew it ! Eventually , I managed to retrieve it , and returned the adapter for a refund of £20 .<br>

I am now awaiting an all aluminium version without the inner ring , which was half the cost , though I am a little apprehensive of infinity focus .<br>

Has anyone had this problem ?</p>

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<p>I am not sure about cheapest , but a micro 4/3rds camera [ or any of the new ' mirrorless ' cameras ' will accept all your old Zuiko's with an adapter . A set of m43 extension tubes is about £8 from China , and an adapter about £20 shipped to UK [ check e-bay for costs in USA ]<br>

My Panasonic G1 was £290 ex-dem with replacement battery and charger , but G1 bodies are turning up as people upgrade to the later bodies .<br>

I use my old Minolta SR tubes and a 50mm MD / MC lens , or a cheap Vivitar 100mm macro lens , which becomes 200 on m43 .<br>

I am more interested in still life abstracts , so have no idea how the set up would work with bugs etc !<br>

I am however blown away by the results Plonsky achieves with a Canon G3 and a lot of experimentation .... now where is that Canon G2 ? </p>

<p> </p>

<p>Does anyone know how to change the focus screen to split image on a K10D ?<br>

thanks <br>

dee</p>

<p>Autism is wierd - it's like duplicates help my mind take something in ... imagine seeing in snapshots , rather than a continuous film - well that's Autism . Very little is tangible , it's all out of phase .<br>

Two or more same cameras reinforce the input - several is comforting , and there is an element of having a spare if one breaks .<br>

I don't seem to resolve SAME / DIFFERENT it's more SAME / NOT SAME , for which read SAFE / NOT SAFE .<br>

Just a tiny detail can create anxiety - I can resolve Contax II and KNeB II , but dual script Kievs create confusion . The original Contax II / III with ' foot ' is OK , but Kiev 4 with revised body is disturbing .<br>

I also like constancy and continuity - which Contax creates from the 1930s through to Kiev in 1958 , or 1983 if Kiev 4 is taken into account .<br>

The ex Arsenal techs have made me a Contax IV , with genuine restored scrap Contax body and Kiev 4 top and meter , which completes my ' set ' of Contax profiles .<br>

Crazy ? Of course , but Autism is extremely disturbing and anything which helps is great . </p><div></div>

<p>I have just bought a Panasonic G1 to use my old style Leica screw fit lenses - I use a Summitar / Elmar / USSR I50 / Fed Collapsible on my M8 , and my Rokkors on a Leica Dig 3 and spare L1 bodies.<br>

It's ex dem and an affordable £280 , less than a Canon G 11 .<br>

The contrast between the L1 and G1 using the same format is amusing ! But I think a CV 35 f 2.5 Color Scopar will be just perfect for the G1 [ I like the 67mm given by a 50mm on the M8 , and 35 on the Dig 3 gives a useable 70mm ] <br>

It's just gonna be fun and pocketable to use .</p>

<p>I specifically bought a used Leica Digilux 3 to adapt to my Rokkors . Unlike other 4/3rd cameras it has , to me , instinctual shutter / aperture controls .<br>

Having tried other cameras , OM1 , Contax 139 , none gave that atmosphere that a Rokkor can produce .<br>

The little 45 f2 provides a neat 90 , and the 135 f 3.5 , a perfect infinity focus fastish 270 lens .<br>

The magic continues digitally , although tunnel vision is best to describe the 4/3rds viewfinder . <br>

dee</p>

<p>I bought a restored one 'cos I can't fix things .<br>

It's a lovely camera - along with the Zenit C .<br>

Great pictures too - it makes me wonder why anyone needs anything more .</p>

<p>I was worried about buying a rare KNeB II 1951 camera from a reputable seller from ex USSR .<br>

I had bought fair Kievs from him in the past , but non CLA .<br>

It had been described as CLA by ex-Arsenal '' Hand Master ' I had seen some black Contax/Kiev copies supposedly by this guy and the finish was rubbish . Reassured by the warranty , I bought the most quiet and silky smooth Kiev ever for £120 incl</p>

<p>On another occasion , I took a chance on another poorly pictured and described 1952 KNeB II 'cos the case looked really clean LOL for £60 incl This turned out to be virtually unused with just some careless storage scratches on case and camera .<br>

I am paying around 80 euro for an early Kiev and Contax III to be rebuilt in Ukraine , so my 1951 turned out to be a fair deal . </p>

<p> </p>

<p>This is one of the best Zorki 4 cameras - 1958 is an early model .<br>

Congratulations upon the rescue work .</p>

<p>I have just received from Ukraine , a Contax II rescued from a box of bits by the techs who made Kievs at Arsenal .<br>

It has a Kiev shutter , and various parts , with non matching numbers back [ 1937/8 ] , new paint , polished chrome , new front leather panels and back leather restored beautifully .It has a Jupiter 3 lens in a 1930s Sonnar mount as the perfect companion .<br>

Obviously , it's smooth and dee'lightful to use .<br>

I love it - even though I have a lovely near mint KNeB II . The cost is about the same as my non CLA KNeB II - £120 . The lens being a treasured gift .<br>

Why ? Because it was uneconomical and some may say unethical to rescue this camera . I now have a valueless Kontax , rather than donating the Contax parts to a more worthy , genuine camera . <br>

But , it's MINE . It has no history , in that effectively , it is ' new ' in this form for 2010 . It embodies the continuity of the same camera under different regimes made from 1936 to 1960 . I love this - and the connection to the original Kiev factory . It now has a localised story . <br>

How important is ' authenticity ' ? Or would you like a really personal camera rescued from a certain fate - with a little help from it's Soviet Sisiters ? LOL .</p>

<p> </p>

<p>I love rusting cars and planes - so trips to car / plane graveyards and lone hulks all over .<br>

Just my Leica M8 with 35 and 50 , [ or M9 body LOL ] plus a reasonable small , light DSLR [ Nikon D 500 with 50 and good zoom ] or my existing Pentax K 10D with good zoom and a couple of primes ... Oh , and my rebuilt Contax II by Kiev techs which I just love ! Little room for inessentials like clothes etc ! </p>

<p>Simply Stunning !<br>

But the complexity would terrify me !</p>

<p>I shall just have to turn to my Contax II / III , Leica II and IIc ... and far too many Minolta SRTs !</p>

 

<p>Thanks everyone - just wanted to stir it a bit LOL </p>

<p>I have a Leica Digilux 3 which will accept my Rokkors , and has similar analogue style controls , but it could never be considered a ' Classic ' , but I was curious about the pixellated persuasion of what is a long line of M series Leicas .<br>

Does Classic camera , currently , mean Film Camera ? ... <br>

I am not going to show pics from my digiboxes , no worries there , but using the M 8 seems just like using a Contax II , but a lot easier and with instant gratification LOL .</p>

<p>Just a thought - does ' Classic ' signify ' old ' ?<br>

I have many older film cameras , but an inheritance permitted a Leica M 8 with my Elmar / Summitar and Fed 50 f 3.5 collapsible ' Tessar ' lens . Just one modern CV 35 f 2.5 Color Scopar - known for it's vintage style .<br>

To me , it's a true classic camera which just happens to be a digi-box ! <br>

dee</p>

<p>My rebuilt Kontax Too - Contax II non matching back , a real bitsa with Kiev shutter and other parts restored by Kiev / Arsenal Techs , with gifted Jupiter 3 50 f 1.5 in 30's Sonnar mount . </p>

<p>My Kontax II - Contax II rescued from parts and restored by ex-Arsenal Techs in Ukraine . Non matching back and body Kiev II shutter etc - new paint , restored leather , polished chrome , with Jupiter 3 glass in Sonnar mount . <br>

Signifies continuity and constancy from 1936 until 1960 when the K IIa was discontinued . Surviving relocation and diverse ideaologies ... Plus a rebirth of a camera uneconomic to revive , destined to be a donor for a more worthy Contax . It's odd - I feel this Combination , uniquely , to be truly MINE .<br>

But , I am certified crazeee !<br>

dee </p>

<p>... and a black one is stunning - with just a touch of brass showing through ... LOL </p>

<p>I use Copydex or any wood glue which is similar . It may not be recommended - but it is easy to peel off if you don't get it right ! Not recommended underwater though . Thin coat on both sides - thin it out with no bumps and press together .<br>

dee</p>

<p>The best Minolta - ever - is freshly CLA Minolta SRT 202 / 303 etc - it has the mirror lock , aperture in viewfinder etc and is built like a brick !<br>

Just make sure that it has a batery adapter and new seals .<br>

Plentiful - and a bargain - just check out a black one - super stylish .<br>

Good luck<br>

dee</p>

<p>4/3rds might help - it's 2x 35mm , so a 135 manual lens with adapter would be 270 - add a suitable 2x converter , and you have a light 540mm f 5.6 lens . Not the best quality , but probably equal to a cheap zoom .<br>

Adapters are available for almost all manual cameras . Micro 4/3rds will allow focusing on-screen - but I am not sure what adapters are available .<br>

Olympus 4/3rds longer lenses are always smaller and lighter .<br>

Good luck with your quest </p>