chad_hoelzel1

<p>you can meter the background and subject separately with a camera's meter. Just turn on spot and then point at the background. Then point at the subject. Now you've got the two measurements. Remember using a flash meter only reads what light is hitting the subject... not the light behind the subject. You generally have to decide what to expose for... the subject or the background. The dynamic range of a sensor is only so wide. If you want proper exposure for both the subject and the background then you need to use fill flash or some kind of reflector. If you bump up your ISO then you will possibly get enough ambient light to not need fill flash. <br>

Just remember that a proper exposure is just the correct ratio of shutter speed to aperture for the amount of given light.</p>

 

<p>If you ever want to go in the direction of controlling your lights with the CyberSync Commander I would go with that system. Look it up... it's a slick system, the only one of it's kind and very affordable (built in light meter). Just use the cybersyncs with your speedlights that way your set to go with possibly controlling the strobes with the CC in the future.</p>

<p>I know I'll get flamed due to the postponement of release but if you're not in a rush I'd wait for the einsteins when Paul Buff releases them. If you look at what they do, they are well worth the wait.<br>

http://www.paulcbuff.com/pcb2009/einstein.html</p>

 

<p>Or you can skip the power packs and all their cords and stuff and go to the alien bees as suggested and just need a power cord and inexpensive remote controls for adjusting them. Also if something goes on the fritz you don't have to send the whole thing in just that one light to a good old made in USA company with awesome customer service (I'm Canadian so am unbiased). You'll find them on ebay... they don't loose there value you'll notice<br>

Good starter kit with a warranty and all you might want is a reflector. One main Light, one back light and you might want to get a reflector as fill. Plus the inexpensive remote controls to make life easy<br>

http://alienbees.com/digi.html</p>

<p>Remember that the wider you go the more distortion you get. I've had so much headache with wide angle distortion (even with people not at the edge) that I'm going to use a 50mm lens next time. You are the photographer and you know what to do.</p>

<p>I guess it all depend on the type of effect you want. If you look all around you the world is filled with light, shadows (lesser amount of light), and darkness (no light). Direct, harsh light just makes something look flat and featureless on the most part. Shadow helps create a more three dimensional effect. Consider the angle of light also. Most light comes from above (varying angles) whether it be natural or artificial. <br>

So how does one use light and shadow. You can use it naturally, naturally and modified or artificially and modified. Naturally is just capturing it as is. Naturally and modified is using reflectors or diffusers to direct or change the quality of natural light. Artificial light is sometimes used to overpower natural light (the sun) and/or fill in harsh shadows. In low light artificial light often becomes the main light. It is often modified and even reflected in many different ways.</p>

<p>If you don't know when to use a flash and find that when you do it is to bright I'd suggest starting looking at photographs others have taken. Really look at them. Direction and quality (harsh/Soft) of light. Find what's pleasing to you. Then place your subject and/or light source to get the effect you like. If it's to bright... either adjust your flash to put out less power or your camera to allow less light to hit the sensor/film.</p>

<p>You need a CyberSync CST (transmitter) on the camera (hot shoe or PC). Then you attach a CyberSync CSRB (receiver) to your flash with a PC cord. You might need to use a PC cord adapter base on your flash if it doesn't have anywhere to plug the PC cord into.<br>

http://white-lightning.com/remotes.html</p>

<p>Radio Poppers aren't meant to be used with just TTL speedlites. They have a JrX series which are meant to be used with studio strobes. Not saying this harshly but please be informed before telling people info on products. Its the RP PX system that is meant for ETTL speedlites.<br>

Personally I'd go with CyberSync like Charles suggested though. If you ever go into the Paul Buff strobe system (Alien Bees, White Lightning or the new Einstein) you'd already have a few of the wireless components to get you going.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>I'd suggest going to http://strobist.blogspot.com/ and do some reading. A lot of light modifiers you can build yourself. You might want a second more powerful flash as well and/or a reflector. Don't cheap out to much on the light stand if you are doing locational or you'll have issues with it getting tipped to easily. You might want one silver umbrella and one white with removable black backing (shoot through or reflective). Also I second going with CyberSync radio remotes. If you ever want to get studio strobes for a small home studio or locational photography then you are already set if you get alien bees or white lightning.</p>

<p>Not sure if LED lights would at all come close to the light output of your AB800. Might need one more strobe light and then work on technique. Sure you could probably find a book on lighting for that subject matter.</p>

<p>+1 for Einsteins, Paul Buff light modifiers, Cybersync commander, and Vagabond II for locational<br>

The quality, price and customer service can't be beat</p>

<p>Have a look at all the inexpensive Paul Buff light modifiers. He's constantly coming out with new ones and only the largest of softboxes are over $100. Everything from 22" beauty dishes to Parabolic Light Modifiers (version 2 coming out next month). And everything controllable at the tip of your hand with the use of the Cybersync commander (with built in meter)</p>

<p>If your going to be using the stands a lot you might want to try something more tried and true like a major brand name such as Manfrotto. </p>

<p>still not sure why people are saying IS isn't needed... common people... lowlight theater... that's when you really need it. You might not want to cut corners because the new mk II IS might be that much better for what you need in low light and hand holding. </p>

<p>They sure didn't give you a good lens to do this job with. You really need a macro lens so the jewelery isn't so small in the picture. There is no easy way around it but you are also going to need a tripod so that you can shoot closer to f8-f16 to get the depth of field you need so that it is all in focus. You won't be able to accomplish this hand held. Maybe also look at other jewelery advertisements to get some idea on layout. Your background should not have an evident line in it.... seamless. The last big problem is I'm not sure if the lighting you have been given really puts out enough light. It gives somewhat of a flat appearance. Maybe work with changing its position.</p>

<p>Marc: It gives you better image quality easier because Canon knows all the characteristics of the sensors in these cameras. They have the inside scoop. They can then create the software to best adjust for each sensor.</p>

<p>To get the most light power out of your flash you might want to consider a Parabolic Light Modification System (PLM). It will loos the least amount of light and focus it to where you want to take a picture. http://white-lightning.com/plm.html<br>

A lot of the other light modifiers loose to much light. You might consider using a radio trigger and two inexpensive Vivitar 285 HV flashes with the PLM. It won't be automatic but will give you the best bang for the buck. What lens are you using? Another option is a large reflector. Have someone stand to the side of the rock wall that does have sun and shine it up at the person that is climbing.</p>

<p>look up HSS in your manual. It GREATLY reduces the distance your flash goes but will give you higher shutter speeds.</p>

<p>I think the poster is on to something in regards to GFI is one thing but the charged capacitor is another. I'm an electrician by trade and the GFI is only going to stop the strobe from recharging (if tripped by water) but it isn't going to stop the capacitor in the strobe from discharging if shorted by water. The only good and bad thing is that it would be one BIG shot not continuous. My suggestion is that maybe keep traffic low in that area. Only go wireless to eliminate an extra set of wires to trip on. Heavily sandbag everything even if it doesn't need it. Maybe even have an assistant at each light whose sole responsibility is that the light doesn't move anywhere. Any movement of lights, stands, booms, modifier work, etc should be done unplugged and capacitor discharged. That's just my safety 2 cents worth.</p>

<p>The first few swipes are going to spread the oil residue drops but after that they should start dissolving and getting absorbed by the swab.</p>

<p>I bought a silver/gold and white reflector with the intentions of using it for portraits outside but found that the squinting was just not worth it. I built a special arm (with clamps) to hold it but takes to much fiddling around to make it work. I've got a few speedlites and have used those in shaded areas. I'm really eying the Paul Buff Einstein and a Vagabond II battery pack as a main light source for shooting in the sun. It's just a lot easier to control the quality, color and direction of light with an artificial light source.</p>

<p>You might also want to look at the cost of light modifiers that fit on that strobe. Sometimes your sort of stuck not only spending lots on the strobe but also lots on the simplest of light modifier.</p>

<p>If Canon's CPM-E4 battery magazine is reported to have this problem I'd hate to see what a third party magazine's quality would be like. So far so good with mine.</p>

<p>If the einsteins are to expensive consider buying some things like light stands on ebay and use the savings for some better lights. Things like light stands are pretty much indestructible if you buy a good brand and this can save you a lot of money. You just have to decide where it matters to cut corners on cost and where not.</p>

<p>I wouldn't go for the Alien Bees but for their new Einstein <br>

http://www.paulcbuff.com/einstein/preorder.html<br>

It's not much more and their new wireless system is basically setting a high bar standard for where the photography industry is going. This setup including the Cyber Commander which doubles as a transmitter and a light meter would give you all the control you need. You also saving money because the wireless receivers are only like $30 per light.</p>

<p>Look into this. Better color consistency and 9 STOPS of adjustment.</p>

<p>Chad</p>

<p>0%..... Tv and M</p>