dcphotography

<p>Michael, what about the D2h? It sells for about $400-500 now.</p>

<p>The D3, D700, D300(s), D90, and D5000 are all very good at high ISO, esp. the D3(s) and D700.<br>

D5000: http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/nikond5000/page16.asp<br>

D700: http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/NikonD700/page17.asp</p>

<p>The D5000 should be similar to the D300 and D90, while the D700 should be similar to the D3 in terms of noise.</p>

<p>Can you post the image?</p>

<p>If you want to use multiple flashes: D90 along with either an AF-S 60mm f/2.8G, AF-S 85mm f/3.5G DX, or a AF-S 105mm f/2.8G VR. Maybe get flashes later: SB-600 (as many as you want).</p>

<p>If you don't, then a D5000 along with one of the above lenses should do it.</p>

<p>Is your D700 set to PAL or NTSC?</p>

<p>The D5000's viewfinder is smaller, but the D50's is slightly smaller than the D5000's and even with that I find manual focus easy.</p>

<p>This happens to me all the time with my D50. I've learned to ignore it, especially since I never go panoramas or things that require more than one frame.</p>

<p>The newer AF-S 50mm f/1.4G will autofocus with the D40x.</p>

<p>The D5000 has a more modern sensor, while the D3000 uses the one from the D60 (may be modified slightly). The D5000 will take photos with less noise (i.e. better quality) than the D3000, but the D3000 will take photos with less noise than your Sony DSC H5.</p>

<p>The D5000 is actually quite "small" and geared towards first-time DSLR buyers. You may find that with the D3000 you'll grow out of it faster. I would personally go for the D5000, or D90 if you can swing it (it'll take you even longer to grow out of the D90).</p>

<p>Nikon D40? :P</p>

<p>Looks like your CCD is dying/dead. Send it to Nikon for repair or buy a new camera?</p>

<p>Nikon will no longer be making lenses with aperture rings (or, I'd imagine, only if they're specialty lenses. Even then, I doubt it). Many modern lenses have a short focus throw nowadays, since AF has mostly taken over.</p>

<p>I don't know about this mistiness problem, though.</p>

<p>I find that my 50mm f/1.8D is good at controlling CA after f/2.2 or so. My 35mm f/2 Nikkor-Q is good at controlling it after f/2.8, I don't know about the 35mm f/2D (different optical designs).</p>

<p>The DoF is shallow enough for this to happen.</p>

<p>"i.e. there are no hard stops on the ring motion, even though the lens internals stop at infinity and at the close focus limits."</p>

<p>This is normal with AF-S lenses.</p>

<p>The meter only meters for ambient light. This helps you balance the ambient light and flash, if needed.</p>

<p>Keep in mind the AF-D lenses mentioned (50mm f/1.4, 85mm f/1.8) will NOT autofocus on your camera.</p>

<p>Which AF point are you using? You may be using an AF sensor that isn't cross-type, i.e. it can only detect either horizontal or vertical lines, but not both.</p>

<p>1: Press up or down on the control pad.<br>

2: Set your white balance so the image isn't yellow.</p>

<p>Does it happen with the flash off?</p>

<p>Walked around a bit yesterday with a friend I haven't seen for a few months. This is one of the three keepers.<br>

<a title="Closed Off for Construction by David Chu Photography, on Flickr" href=" title="Closed Off for Construction by David Chu Photography, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2605/3834534597_46ee5bd49e.jpg" alt="Closed Off for Construction" width="500" height="333" /> </a><br>

Nikon D50 w/ 35mm f/2 Nikkor-O, f/2, 1/1000, ISO 200</p>

<p>Press and hold the flash button, and turn the wheel until it says REAR or similar on the top LCD :).</p>

<p>Well, the D90 is better at higher ISOs so you could use faster shutter speeds, which actually stops subject movement, while VR does not.</p>

<p>Turn off "Active D-Lighting"? That may help, if it's on right now.</p>

<p>Yeah, I don't know why it happens though. Maybe I'll look into it...</p>

<p>edit: Ah, one thread here on photo.net says "The TTL sensor is fussy about the angle of the light entering it".</p>