bob_rannells

I also love TLRs and am hoping for the same thing. But, just recently (two days ago) I bought a Sony R1. It's not exactly the same, but in many ways it's like working with a TLR. Even the manual focus is surprisingly good considering this is an electronic viewfinder camera.

Byron, Thank you for clearing this up and putting it into laymens terms. I understand now.

I understand what Kelly is saying, but wasn't Granny's efficiency level more related to whether she had her rheumatis medicine or not?

I owned a Yashica 24. I also owned a model 124 and many other Yashica Mats. The model 24 was made to take either 120 or 220 film. My camera actually had two different areas to line up 120 and 220 film. Look in your camera, you should have an arrow for 120 and one for 220. When the Yashica 124 came out it had the adjustible pressure plate. I never noticed any difference between the model 24 and 124 when using 120 and 220 film.

The Ilford Galerie Classic papers are swellable polymers. The Ilford Galerie Smooth papers are a microceramic type. You can find it on the Ilford website.

I use Ilford Galerie Classic paper with my HP 7960. I think the Ilford Galerie Classic and the HP Premium Plus are the same paper. I've printed the same photo on each with the same settings and I don't notice a difference. Independant testing has shown them both to be equal in longevity. Just make sure you use the Galerie Classic and not the Ilford Galerie Smooth.

You do not have to make a thousand consecutive 8X10's to to realize 40-45 cents per 8X10. Fuji Crystal Archive sells for $27.95 per 100 sheets. RA-4 chemistry is inexpensive. You can buy 4X10 liters of developer replenisher for $55.90. bleach/fix sells for $43.49 4X10 liters. How many prints per liter of chemistry depends on which method you are using. Using Nova tanks you can get 25-35 8X10's per liter of chemistry. Using a small roller transport machine will give you about the same amount of prints per liter. You can replenish your chemistry using the above two methods to keep your prints consistant. You only have to measure out the amount you need for each session. RA-4 chemistry lasts a long time so buying the above quantities is worth it for someone who prints fairly often. Using the above figures comes to 38 cents per 8X10 figuring on 25 8X10's per liter. If you buy smaller quantities of chemistry your price per print will be higher but, you should still be within 40-45 cents per 8X10. You want to stay away from kits which are 5 liters and under. They are too expensive. I'm not pushing using the wet darkroom I'm just presenting facts.

The lenses with the bluer coating are generally the newer lenses. The only experience I've had which is different is with the 55 mm lens. This lens I bought new at the same time as my other lenses and had a different color coating. I wouldn't worry about it. I don't notice any difference.

Darkroom printing using RA-4 Chemistry (which is the current process) costs 40-45 cents per 8X10. This includes papeer and chemistry. Inkjet printing costs considerably more. I use both so I am not partial to either.

All Autocords take Bay 1 filters. Your filter should go through the lens hood. The lens hood goes on the outside ring and the filters go on the inside ring.

Luis, I'm not the owner, really.

I forgot to mention the bar/restaurant. It's Bob and Kens' down in SoHo.

Luis, this reminds me of a painting in a bar/restaurant in New York City. Different subject matter but similar.

Yes, they are interchangable. I had a L-28C for many years. After the 398M came out, I had to replace the dome on my L-28C. I purchased the dome for the 398M directly from Sekonic. They are the same. A few years ago I had a camera bag stolen with the L-28C in it. I relaced it with the 398M. Great meters.

Autocord CDS I, CDS II, CDS III and unmetered versions of the same take the difficult to find strap. Older versions can use any standard strap.

If you know this is an established company and morally you have no problem doing this it should be OK. But, look very carefully into this "company" and the people you will be dealing with. Your personal safety is at issue here.

I built and use a 4X5 Bender. It was a lot of fun to build and in the process of building it you learn a lot about view cameras. You learn things such as film plane adjustment which you probably wouldn't think much about when buying a pre assembled camera. It is very light in weight and for me it is precise enough.

HP printers use dye ink and have print longevity of over 70 years according to Wilhelm. I use the HP 7960 and think it's great. It also does a great job of B&W.

Michael,

I should have added more on my previous post. I usually don't sharpen in my photo editing program before sending it to Qimage. I usually let Qimage do the sharpening before printing. The Qimage website is very informative about resampling and printing. It is well worth reading the information on thier site. You may have devised a method of sharpening in Photoshop that works for you, but I find it very easy letting Qimage do the work. It does a great job.

I use Qimage mostly for sharpening. It does a great job of sharpening.

I own both the Epson 2450 and the Minolta Scan Multi II. The Minolta gives a much sharper scan. With medium format the Minolta has an optical resolution of 1128. Using Minolta's software you can scan medium format at 2820 dpi with interpolation. The scan does not look interpolated. With Minolta's interpolation you get a very sharp well detailed scan. I've made comparisons between the Epson and Minolta and I could not get the Epson to look as good as the Minolta. I've sold 20X24" portraits scanned using the Minolta that looked great technically. For me the Minolta is a better scanner. Maybe someone else can get more out of the Epson 2450 than I have been able to.

Get the meter fixed. But first get a Wein cell and put it in your camera to see how much off the meter is. Point the camera at an evenly lit wall and take a reading. Do the same thing with your hand held meter in reflective mode. If you find a difference, tell Mark Hama to adjust your meter by that amount. You have to use your Minolta meter in reflective mode so you will be reading the same as the Yashica meter. I find that a properly calibrated Yashica Mat meter is fairly accurate as long as you meter correctly. Of course the most precise way to meter is with a hand held meter, but sometimes it is more convenient to just grab your camera by itself and not carry around other equipment.

Kelly, perfect answer.

I used to use an Epson 1160 with Lyson Fotonic ink with a CIS. I found it great for printing color photographs. As a test, I printed the same photographs using the 1160 and a 1270 and on only one or two photographs could I see a difference. The only difference I noticed on a couple of photographs was the highlights on peoples skin were smoother using the 1270. The highlights looked more natural with the 1270.

I own a Yashica 12. It is a great camera. It is the same camera as the Yashica Mat 124 except it only takes 120 film. The Yashica Mat 124 takes both 120 and 220 film. The lens is a 4 element Tessar design. The lens is extremely sharp from f:8 to f:16. From f:3.5 to f:5.6 it is not as sharp but still usable, especially for most portraits.