danielhundley

<p>Hello, I didn't participate in part one of the forum but thought I might have a go. First I added a new channels layer and with the gradient and brush tool to set focus point. Then used the alpha channel layer to use the lens blur to blur the foreground and background. Then I changed to black and white, increased highlights in curves for more contrast, then added a vignette. Hope you like. My favorite so far was Rodney's. -Dan</p><div></div>

<p>Hello Nokonians,<br>

Great this week. My contribution....</p>

<p>Taken with Nikon D200 and Tamron 28-75.....68mm f/2.8 1/250 ISO 100</p><div></div>

<p>Now I've only read about 3/4 of this entire thread so forgive me if I'm repeating someone else. Also this is also a little off track but still relevant.</p>

<p>I very much like the setup of the Nikon Wednesday forum except for one thing that can be greatly improved.</p>

<p>Rather than having to scroll through the photos and text, it would be nice to see the comments on the side of the photos that they are toward. So when one sees a photo and wishes to comment s/he can place their comment to the right of the photo in a comments section. This would solve the problem of scrolling through and makes it easier to comment and to see if ones photo has been commented on.</p>

<p>As for the comment of loading I think most people have high speed internet and if they do not then they are willing to wait for the images to load. As for myself, I look and comment on the photos during my paid ten minute breaks in my companies break room and on lunch in the break room. Additionally, it wouldn’t be so bad to have a limit on the file size – and not just a gentle reminder but a rejection of one’s post if it exceeds the limit.</p>

<p>Hopes this help with things,<br />Dan</p><div></div>

<p>oops. Here it is</p><div></div>

<p>Here is the generic I'm looking for (or one similar)</p>

<p>Hi,</p>

 

<p>I'm trying to print a photo from PS CS4 to my HP Photosmart 8250 (using windows).</p>

 

<p>Firstly, after I click print and then I am to choose a printer etc. When I click the page setup button to specify the size of paper I get (and have always got but am now just asking) the below picture. Is there a way to disable this printer specific page setup to get a generic one like the second image below?</p>

 

<p>Secondly, does anyone know if there are ICC profiles available for my printer for HP's paper?</p>

 

<p>Thanks a lot. I've had my printer for a while but want to get a little more serious about printing and making sure what I see on my computer (after calibration of course) is what will be printed.</p>

 

<p>-Dan</p><div></div>

<div></div>

<p>I would go to the studio and DEMAND to have the photos right then and tell them that you'll be contacting your lawyer about some sort of reimbersment or compensation.</p>

<p>#2 Evicted is my favorite. Tells a story. Possibly a college students crap strewn about haphazardly, or as the title suggest, a persons belongings evicted waiting for the individual or family to come home. Though it dosen't have an appealing, adored look (not the photo itself but what the photo represents) it still is nice and ponder over. I like it thanks.</p>

<p>McKown's ______________ photography<br>

or<br>

Thomas' ______________ photography<br>

in the blanks add an adjective ie: conceptual, aesthetic, illustrative, scenic, pituresque, quant, symbolic, expounding, elucidatory, etc.</p>

<p>Though this may be a bit bland.</p>

<div></div>

<p>Wow, I really had a major typo: signaute = signature</p>

<p>Just wondering how safe it is adding ones own personal signature to photos and then posting them on the web. For example one wrote their signature on a piece of paper then scanned it in or wrote on a wacom tablet and then used that signature on their photos. (Note that this is the same signature that is used for signing everything else in life: receipts, legal documents etc.) Just wondering if this is save or is using a font from the computer safer (and less distracting from the photo itself)?</p>

<p>First time on Nikon WedNEsDAy forum. I've been watching from the sidelines for months. Everybody is great. I've looked at all of them this weeks but can't comment because of the amount of them all. Though something about <a href="../photodb/user?user_id=323291">Dieter Schaefer</a> photo of a statue in Crete caught my eye. Love the way the light falls on the subject. Would like to see it in fisheye as well.</p>

<p>Here is my photo. Taken last weekend in Coos Bay, Oregon. Nikon D200 w/ tokin 12-24 @ 12mm f/5 1/640th sec ISO 100. Hope you like and thanks to the other artists who submitted photos. Excellent</p><div></div>

<p>Brian, I think you are making the right decision. Though Gurbally is correct in saying that the 17-35 is due for an update. Maybe hold out a couple of months to see what nikon does.</p>

<p>I do agree that you should play around with the lenses you have already and find out the gaps in your line and then fill them as needed. Though when you are ready I would look into the Nikon 70-300mm VR. It has great reviews and gives you that extra 100mm so you wouldn't have to get a teleconverter. I actualy bought a wideangly (12-24mm for by dx d200) before I got my telephoto and I would have to say that it may be the lens that I use the most. But it all depens on your technique and style. If you just plant on casual tele photos throughout the summer I would suggest the 70-300 VR. If you are more of a landscape/architecture I would suggest for the fx sensor the Nikon AFS 17-35mm f/2.8. JMO</p>

<p>I will be traveling to Europe and need a travel tripod. Firstly I already have a tripod but it folds to be 29" in length and then another 4" for the head for a total of 33" (That’s almost 3' long!) So I am in need of a traveling tripod. Need one that holds a professional DSLR and a lens that will hold a 200mm f/2.8 (but would like one that holds more just in case). I am 5'6 / 5'7 / 5'8 and don’t want to have back aches bending over to look in the viewfinder, though I don’t want to have back aches carrying a heavy tripod around. I have looked at Gitzo's GT1541T traveler and Gitzo's GK2580TQR traveler tripod and both are really nice and fold up small: 16.1" and 16.9" respectably. (They hold around 16 lbs). Can anyone recommend any other brands/products similar to these that are preferably less expensive? I have also looked into the free standing monopods and they might be the option but don't go to the ground very low. Well anyway thanks in advance.<br>

-Dan-</p>

<p>Just my opinion, but the buildings and the bridge could be brighter and the sky is a bit overexposed. I would suggest using a split ND filter, though maybe not because of the buildings. Like the effect of the wind blowing the water and the grass in the bottom right corner.</p>

<p>Okay. So I am pretty familiar with Adobe Bridge CS4. I know how to name things, name folders, and tags things and search for items. All of my photos are organized and easily found. BUT I would like to find out how other photographers organize photos that are the same. For example one takes a picture in RAW format at a wedding; they upload it to the computer do their editing and then it comes time to save. First you have the original in RAW, then you want to save it as a PSD for the possibility of editing later, you also want to save one as a Jpeg for the client and then a Tiff for the Lab, and also one that is downsized for uploading to your website and then with a watermark and one without and then one that is cropped to a aspect ratio that the client is likely to find a frame for.....etc. So when doing this and dealing with several copies of the same image, how do you guys store those photos and stay organized. Thanks in advance for your input.<br>

-Dan-</p>

<p>Ok. So I visited the coast over spring break and it got pretty windy and it blew sand and salt at my camera. My D200 was a champ at deflecting it all except for one weekness. The lens mount got sand inside and is causing issues. When I connect a lens with a aperture ring, I get the F ee error. I did some research and found that this is either due to the lens not being all the way on the mount or the lens isn't manually stopped down to the smalles aperture. I checked both and the lens is securly fastened to the mount and the lens is locked to the smallest aperture. So I decided to unscrew the crome ring and when I did under the springry ring thing that slides and makes the clicking sound when a lens is mounted, is a ton of white salt beginning to corrode (if you will). I cleaned it up the best I could but couldn't figure out out how to take the springy thing off. So I want to take it to a proffesional cleaner and have an in-depth cleaning done (not just the sensor). So now to my question, Where would I send it to to have this done because there is no place locally and I want to make sure that they clean what needs to be clean (in other words, can I give special instructions and explain my situation?) Sorry for such a long post and thanks in advance for your responses.<br>

-Dan-</p>

<p>Hello all. I have a couple of questions regrading cropping, aspect ratios and edditing images in PS. I shoot with a Nikon D200 (2:3 aspect ratio).<br>

Question 1) How does one go about cropping an image if one dosen't know the final outcome of the print size. And if one crops an image for a 4x6 and later wants to print the same image as an 8x10 (different aspect ratio not to mention up-sizing) how does this work. Especially is one adds puposeful vignetting or some kind of border and when goes to crop to print at different size it is not right any more. Which bring me to my second question....<br>

Question 2) What is a normal process at editting a photo. Because the first thing I want to do when I open up a photo is crop it so I can go from there. But I don't understand unless one will only be printing with a specific aspect ratio. Which brings me to my final question.<br>

Question 3) If one knows that the print will only be a specific aspect ratio how does one go about cropping an image in PS (CS3) to an aspect ratio without having specific deminsions.<br>

So many question...I know. Thanks in advance for your help and happy hollidays,<br>

Daniel</p>

I wholeheartedly believe what Jim suggested is the best thing to do. Though the two hour sessions dont have to be every day, twice a-day.

Set perameters. Budget yourself only a certain amount of hours on the trip. Also, how many hours you spend behind the

camera double/triple/quadruple (whatever you and your significant other decide) thats how much you should spend with

your significant other.

I am looking for a wirless remote control shutter release for my Nikon D200 mainly two reasons: 1) For long exposures

and 2) For self portraits. As of now it looks that my only choice is the Nikon ML-3 which looks good but it is pretty

expensive. Because I am going to be using it for long exposures it needs to have a shutter lock, and for selp portraits it

needs to have a half-push focus. If anyone has any other alternatives to this or any input on my situation please comment.

Also with the ML-3 if I wanted to use a flash on the hot shoe I will need to use a hot shoe bracket (sold separataly) which I

cannot for the life of me find out the name of this. If someone could tell me the name of this, that would be great. Thanks in

advance.

thanks to all it was extremely helpful. I think i will take a shoulder bag for the trip there and then a medium-sized backpack to hike around taking only what I will need for that day.