gator1999

<p>It had been a long time since last post of the string but still like to add some comments: <br>

1. WW2 state owned IIIc are mostly grey painted with few chrome plated ones, which usually carried the agency's name it belonged to (state government, navy and air force samples found). <br>

2. Not all IIIc were IIIc-K, and only shutter curtain of IIIc-K carried K-imprint when left Leica factory. A IIIc-K should be identified by not only by K-imprint on shutter curtain or serial number (most people will stop here) but the shop engraving a-top of rangefinder mechanism and a close examine of the shutter mechanism. <br>

3. A IIIc was very expensive in 1941 Germany with limited supply. A civilian owned IIIc were mostly on rich ($$) or powerful (SS) hands. Engravings would most likely were ordered and carried our by Leica factory (was a complimentary service) or an experienced jeweler. A rough engravings as shown in the provided pictures were most likely from later owners over the years. <br>

4. Last and most important of all, as a standard German infantry doctrine, which also applied to Waffen SS units, individual were not allowed to show divisional and tactical markings or identification on their personal belongings, in this case, a Leica IIIc camera. In addition, camera and other photographic equipment were not standard issued equipment to German army combat units, including Waffen SS units. <br>

In my opinion, whoever engraved that “SS Reich” onto the camera had totally ruin the value of a wonderful wartime IIIc.</p>

 

It's too big for a Leica fake too. And the camera size is too big for a 35mm.

I used both Summaron-M and 40 Summicron. The summicron frames are much sharper than summaron at max. open. At F8, which I usually set for landscape photos, their sharpness and contrast are similar but colors are different. Summaron feels somehow warmer. This what I experienced of but might be different from other opinions.

 

I have not tried Rokkor before but read it is very close to 40 Summicron. Maybe you can get a summaron to compare with your Rokkor.

A very good question. I would like to know about the comparison too. I have a 80-400mm but surely it is too heavy even just for a day trip to San Diego zoo. In most incident, you still, at least, a monopod to go with the set. I have 80-400+D200 plus a bogen monopod. The weight is really killing.

Correctly me if I'm wrong, but the picture from Elamr is bit too bright. What is the shutter setting of the frames? The same?

I am not sure if you're paying extra for the weather sealing feature especially while D200 is in mass production and the cost to Nikon is reducing for each unit comming out of their factory. I went to Phillipine for two weeks business trip with the D200 and 18-200mm lens combo and the combo apparently not been attacked by the high moisture (or at least not causing malfunction or showing anything strange on the frames taken). I am not sure if 18-200mm is weather sealed thought (maybe it is ^_^).

 

I treat the D200 as a tool, as it well served, which fits to my need and purposes. I used it extensively in the construction projects as a recording device in the States, Far East, and Middle East. It has dropped four time (to date) and survive through 125F in the summer Death Valley and 45C in Sakakh, Saudi Arabia. If same thing happen to my Leica M6 and M7, I will feel very bad about it. However, when it happen to D200, I don't feel really bad, especially it serves completely fine after those impacts.

 

I do not need a backup, while it stops working, I will just get another one. It's really a reliable tool.

I concur to Shawn, sell the Leica and get a Nikon 105mm Macro, AFD or AFS, to use with D200. As you may experience, manual focusing on D200 is a pain on a. If Nikon can come up with a K-screen to be used on D200, it might be the hottest screen in the Nikon history. As for the quality, as comparing with the Leica 100f4 and Nikon 105AFD, the Nikon is simply much much much better for both color redemption and contrast. The resolution is about the same for both lens. I havn't tried the Leica 100APO but heard it's ultra expensive.

 

I used a Summicron-R 50mm on D200 with an adaptor with carefully insulate it with thin film tape (in case not to short the D200 electronics). The result is really so-so while comparing to the Nikon 50f1.8 non-D.

Similar situation with Adorama before for a Leica Summicron-M. They refund the money after return the lens (but less shipping). I still like KEH very much but they have significantly marked up their inventory.

I don't know if a amatuer can do any good with a Leica. Buy a high end Nikon or Canon would make more sense. If picking from the three, M6 might be the best option since the other two still have high resale value. Sell both of the MP and M7 while you can. I have a M7 with a M3 has a backup+paper weight+toy. If you really like the MP, replace the winding level on M6 with the MP style. It cost about $60 at DAG.

The picture attached is the current version of Summicron with retractable hood. It's a very good lens in terms of sharpness (at f2!) and color repro. I have the current version along with the DR and the early collapse version. I like the pictures from the current version the most.

 

However, if I am on your stand, I would rather go for a collapse version due to its lower tag and a compact package with M6 while carrying around. It produce a very special feeling on B/W comparing to sparkling current version. It has beutiful chrome finish and feels like a jewel while holding on hand. It usually running from $200-300 for a good condition one.

 

If you M6 is chrome version, it looks even better.

I don't think there is any "Waffen SS Only" issued Leica. Only documented wartime Leica are made for Lufftwaffen and govenment-internal use. Military issued Leica's, especial war time issued, only carry special serial number but no special marks on it, like eagle, submarine, tanks, or lightening as we see here.

That's why you shuold always keep a FM2. When the dial says its 1/200, it is 1/200 till the end of the world.

 

I don't have that happened on my D200. I suggest you reset to default (check your user manual on how to do it) and see if it still happens. Or you can just shoot in aperture priority and let the shutter jumps the way it wants.

 

Wedding is tomorrow and don't use a equipment you are not certain and confident with. Using what you always use which is a more responsible attitude for a commercial/wedding photo professional.<div></div>

maybe you didn't define right on the AE/AF lock button, i.e. The exposure has not been locked.

F3hp is the way to go. Don't think about the price, since it's only fraction to your FM3a. Don't think about the flash, because even a small point and shoot digicam can outperform it. Don't worry about the top shutter speed, because under 1000th are usually good enough. If you need anything above that, a N90s can give you 8000th with matrix metering with merely $100.

 

F3hp has 100% view finder (that's a big difference), interchangable viewfinder, improved winding mechanism (considered as one of the top design in the world, next to Leica M3), and nice eye-relieve for glass wearer. One last thing of all, it feels more solid in hand and feels nicer to see through.

I agree too, it's the focus problem. I think it's better to use 0.85 view finder (or even 0.9) finder to use with 75 Summilux. The DOF simply too narrow. Object movement might be another especially in low light while shutter speed is slow. I sold my 75 summilux for a 50 summilux and a 90 summarit. Better satisfied.

I tried MD-D200 in store and found it's somehow too heavy and bulky to work with D200. Plus, the combo will then hard to fit in a casual bag. Batteries are the neccessities which you should get at least one for backup.

 

I still use my old SB-28DX for flashing (in A mode) and getting good result. But with the prevision that I don't like flash photo that much.

 

Get several AF-D single focus lens would be a good thing to add. They produce quality photos with much lower price tag (on ebay). I get a 24mm, 35mm, 50mm, and a 135mm f2 and like their brilliant result. I would say putting your money on the glass is a choice.

 

As for sales person, they meant to push the SALES as they been named after. Most time they want us to believe their broad knowledge in the system, but I would suggest them to read more on-line to make their comments really worthwhile.

I think it' more likely to be $200-$450 depending on its condition. In addition, I don't know what do you mean by working perfectly since the shutter speed, rangefinder calibration and even film winding mechanism might be off over the years. The complete overhaul might be required on it which costs about $250 to bring it to adquate working condition. I saw a complete overhauled, very good condition wartime IIIc was sold on Ebay for $375. Hope this helps.

I bought a D80 and then returned for a D200 because I have several good AIS lenses want to use (105 f1.8, 180 f2.0, and a 300 f2.8). In addition, D200 works with CF cards which I have total 20GB of those. The D200 feels much solid and feels great in grip.

 

The D80 is light and very versatile. The image quality is as the same as D200 as I see on the screen (JPG files). I would keep both of them if finantially possible.

 

If most of your lenses are AF/AFS nikkors, I would say go for D80 since it's cheaper, lighter, and produce same image quality. From just taking photo point of view, D80 is a good choice.<div></div>

Looks like you got a lemon 5D. I shoot with a EOS-5 (A2e in US) for over 9 years and it still works like a champ. Maybe all faults due to that little "D".

Send to DAG to replace the shutter curtain and a complete CLA will bring the IIF to usable condition. The cost would be $300-$350. It's your call to decide if it worth it. Get a Canon A1 plus a 200 f2.8 lens would be about that much but is a much better combo for sport.

Depends on how beatup it is. Most time Japanese used photo equipment are much better than ones seeing in US because Japanese photogs do take care of their equipment. Since there is no photo for reference, I would say $450 might be little bit high since the self timer doesn't work. A beatup M3 with full functions can be found about $400-$500 time to time online.

 

Don't buy, as my first impression, as there might be something better come up later for same dollars. However, if you think that you've found your soul mate, then just go for it....sleep with it with grim.

This is the 1st time hearing about the sensor density difference between 5D and 30D. I guess, logically, should be right. 12MP in 24x36 area compares to 8.2MP on 17x30 (13888p/mm2 vs 16078p/mm2) ,which shows that 30D has more sensors. I think the reason I would go for 5D is that I have tons of regular EF lenses so I can use them directly without the 1.6x cropping factor on 30D. So, considering your lens collection right now, just go for 5D. I saw a combo on Ebay, 5D with the 24-105L IS, for $3200 (after rebate)+shipping. It's not that bad, even it can almost buy me an arm or leg ^0^.

 

P.S.: The only digital I have now is Sony F828, 8MP with 28-200(35 eqiv) f2.8(of, yes, 2.8) Zeiss Sonnar. Very easy to use, good image quality, and only fraction of the price of 30D or 5D. Only thing is....minimum aperture is only f8, while I am a memeber of f/16.

Second it, M3 surely the top, since 1954.

 

However, it's more on "play it" than "use it" since I am getting old and lazier now.

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