alextheodin

<p>Thank you for your input . That is exactly what i wanted to hear, a real user experience . It is perhaps the best choice indeed, to go for a native m lens. You have been very helpfull. I will look for a good deal, and hopefully something will come up. The choices in the 50mm range are endless and there is bound to be one out there for me. </p>

<p>Beside the focusing thing, do you find that the conversion is worth it compared to buying a 50m native m lens? There are many options in that focal range and the question which one is surely one that cannot be answered. <br>

After the fact, would you have made the conversion again or would you have bought another one? </p>

<p>Also a correction to my original post, at the last paragraph i meant follow option no.2. That is, convert the planar and when i can afford it, upgrade the 35mm from a nokton to a summarit.</p>

 

<p>Hi!<br>

I am having a lens dillema, so nothing new... :p<br>

I recently came into possesion of a beautiful M6 chrome. It is my first Leica and first rangefinder as i was shooting mainly SLR film and digital. My favorite Combo for film was a Pentax MX with the 50mm 1.7. The last two years I sold my DLSR Pentax and went for the Sony NEX system. Currently i use a Nex 7. The reason that is of relevance lies on the lenses that i use for it.<br>

For this digital setup i have among others a Cosina Voigtlander Nokton 35mm f/1.4, the 21mm f/4 Color Skopar and the Contax G Zeiss 45mm f/2 Planar. The two Voigtlanders found their way onto the M6 and i am so far very happy with the results. I like alot that i can have the 21mm on the M6 and the 35mm on the Nex7 and have a nice set for travel and almost everything i need.<br>

I am now thinking of adding a 50mm lens to that set. I like the 50mm perspective, framing and i have taken my favorite photos with a 50mm. After some initial thoughts it comes down to the following 3 choices but feel free to suggest something that i may be missing.<br>

1. I buy a 50mm lens and that wraps it. I see 50mm Summicrons available all the time. Or a Zeiss ZM 50mm. That would be the obvious and easiest option.<br>

2. I really like my 45mm planar and a conversion from Contax G to leica M is possible for around 300$. That would be the cheapest option and would allow me to use the exact lenses for digital and film.<br>

3. Sell the 35mm, buy a 28mm Elmarit and convert the 45mm. That would offer a wider coverage than the 35mm and 50mm combo. Bonus to this option, the square lens hood of the 28mm that i really like.<br>

I plan to visit the US in a couple of months (NY) and with the current currency rates, the 1000E max. budget for this would amount to 1400$ with should be enough for a basic used lens. But which one?<br>

What i am really tending to is to follow option n. 3 and convert the 45mm planar for starters and then when the time is right (where time, money...) replace the 35 Nokton with a 35mm Summarit. But i havent met anybody that has actually convert one to hear how this actually works. I am speaking of the ebay converter from US that adds a helicoid to the end of the lens without taking the optical parts apart.<br>

Regards,<br>

Alex</p>

<p>I second the K1000 with a digital sensor proposal!<br>

I dont understand why some get upset about this. Is not like the OP wants that all cameras are made that way. He just wants a camera that is smaller, like the ones he likes.<br>

Today's DSLR, while capable of tremendous results, are really bulky and heavy. You cant deny that, especially if you compare them to a Nikon FM2, a Olympus OM2, a Pentax MX or evn a Minolta X700. Wouldn't it be nice to have one that size? Autofocus is nice, but some people like to manual focus occasionally.<br>

And some specs are getting way out of what some people need. The newest Canon has 100.000iso. While pro's will find it usefull for their line of work (photoreporters i assume), i dont need that high iso capabilities. A clean 1600 would be enough for me. More than enough actually. I also dont want a 25MP sensor. 9-10 are fine and wont embarass my lenses either.</p>

<p>The techonology to produce such a camera exists. Leica whose R&D department is minimal compared to Nikon/Canon/Sony has done it and very well. The M9 is the closest analog to a manual 70's SLR out there, and i would loooove to get one. But there are two drawbacks...<br>

Its a Leica, wich means is a rangefinder, so not exactly what we want. And its a Leica so its uber expensive...<br>

Until someone else decides to make a similar camera (Pentax maybe?) or i get the money to buy the Leica, i will keep using my film camera's and take out the K100D when i want to shoot some digital!</p>

 

<p>Haven't seen it mentioned so i'll go ahead and do it.<br>

There is always the Hasselblanski, or as its called normally the KIEV88. Hartblei sells some upgraded versions of them that word is they are more reliable. They still aren't Hasselblads in that way, but theyare sold for much much less. Plus you get a guarantee.<br>

You can also choose to use the Pentacon Six mount, and use those amazing Carl Zeiss Jena lenses.<br>

For 400E you can get a great kit together, with multible backs and 2-3 Zeiss lenses, like the 180 Sonnar, or the 50 Flektogon...</p>

<p>Thanks!<br>

First couple of shots, pretty much prove that. Its mostly for macro but some other uses are possible with a little effort.<br>

Its a nice opportunity to do so macro stuff then... :p</p>

<p>Thanks, that is pretty much what i imagined.<br>

Would i be able to use it for portraits if i use a longer lens?</p>

 

<p>Hi!</p>

<p>I recently bought i Bronica S2A camera, that came with the Nikkor P 75mm f/2.8 and i have been enjoying shooting with it. Wanting to make the most of it, i found and bought the bellows unit that was made for it. It is the type II bellows, with the tilt/shift capabilities.<br /> <img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2551/4037174490_7259d3dfda.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="334" /> <br /> <br /> The thing is i have no idea how to actually work this as i have never used any bellows or tilt/shift lens before. After some findling i managed to mount it properly and with some trials i came to some results. I would like to present them, and ask your advice on them.<br /> 1.The focusing takes place by expanding the bellows. The more you expand the closer it focuses.<br /> 2.The closer you focus the higher the magnification ratio gets. (As i understand with the max 1:1 for the 75mm lens)<br /> 3.You have to be careful not to tilt or shift a lot cause the image circle easily gets out of the frame.<br /> 4.The 75mm lens is pretty much just for macro work, as by the time the bellows expand so that any kind of movement is possible (tilting or shifting) it is focused too close and the FOV (due to the magnification) is very small.<br /> This is pretty much all of it. Did i understand something wrong? I am a bit dissapointed about the just macro use of the 75mm. I was hoping to be able to use the bellows more for portrait stuff (with very selective focus) and maybe some landscape. Do i have to go wider or more tele to be able to use it that way?<br /> Also if anyone knows any good guides on how to make use of those abilities i would be very grateful.<br /> Best regards,<br /> Alex</p>

<p>Thanks for the advice!<br>

That is what i will probably do. Clean the existing O-rings. They were replaced a year ago, and i checked them and they do look good. Maybe i will buy a new set and see how easy it is to replace them. I'll think i will avoid submerging it too deep this year just to be safe...<br>

Great tip too about mounting the lens upside down. It makes life easier to read dof scale for focusing...</p>

<p>Thanks!</p>

<p>I took it to a Nikon repair shop here and they said that it would cost 150E for a full service. Problem is at this point and with vacations comming i can't really spare that much...<br>

After a brief talk with the technician he suggested that since the camera was working fine until now and that i dont plan on taking it in any serious depth i should be ok. The O rings that are installed now are (to my eyes at least) in good shape and well lubed.<br>

He suggested i dont even change the 4 basic ones, risking a leakage from bad installment.<br>

I am considering usingit like that for this summer, avoiding to submerge into more than a few (3-4) feet tops and have it serviced in full in the winter when cash will be more...<br>

Am i making a costly mistake here? Should i at least try and change the 4 basic ones?</p>

<p>PS. Also a rather strange question. I noticed that the way the lens mounts and unmounts is very different than the way normal cameras do. The pull and twist thing. There is nothing locking the lens from an acidental pull that would cause water to get in (like a button you will have to press or smth...). Is this correct or is anything worng with my camera?</p>

<p>Hello!</p>

<p>I bought a Nikonos V last week (used on ebay) with the Nikkor 35mm 2.8 lens. It looks in a good condition and the previous owner said it has never flooded. Everything looks like it should and aperture and shutter work as they are supposed to.<br>

So what should i check next before actually using it. I hear that the O-rings should be replaced every year and other general tips like never leave it to dry with salt still on.<br>

Anyone cares to give me a list (or link) with what i should have replaced or checked before using it under water? How many are the o rings that need replacing? I only counted 2. The one around the back cover and the one around the lens. Are there more?</p>

<p>I dont intent to go for deep scuba diving, i only plan on using it at surface level or at snorkelling depth (3-4 meters). I am guessing it wont float so a floating strap would be a nice addition.<br>

Your help is deeply appreciated!<br>

Regards,<br>

Alex</p>

<p>I recent;y bought one and have uploaded a few scans in my flickr page. I am still getting the hang of it thought... Feel free to check them out.<br>

http://www.flickr.com/photos/alextheodin/</p>