teran

<p>Thanks for all the responses, I guess I'll be taking off the UV filters more often now.<br>

Sarah, the UV filter was Hoya. I didn't notice it in the viewfinder when I was shooting, of course I wasn't really looking for it either. <br>

Tom, sorry if I misread your comment as sarcasm, regardless your diagram and explanation is amazing, thank you!</p>

 

<p>TOM, thank you for the detailed response, work to exhibit the issue and sarcasm. Sorry to be an inconvenience to the threads. Hopefully, it wont be that much on annoyance when it comes up again.</p>

<p>Can anyone explain why there is a upside down reflection of my subjects in this shot. It occurred in pretty much the whole series of shots I photographed from this angle. I've been shooting for 10+ years and have never seen or perhaps noticed this issue in my photos. In this picture I was shooting with a 5D mark II, with a Canon 70-200mm 2.8, shot at 70mm, ISO 320 F2.8 1/125 of a second. <br>

My only guess is it has something to do with shooting into the sun, and maybe there was a reflection within the UV filter on my lens, but I'm not sure. Does anyone have any other explanations. Thank you for your time.<img src="../photo/14639133" alt="" /><img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/14639133-lg.jpg" alt="" width="467" height="700" /></p>

<p>Simon, I remember in this last photo example, I had the flash on camera with a diffuser at a 45 degree angle towards the subject, not bouncing off the ceiling because it was too high. Sorry, I was meaning to ignore you. </p>

<p>Simon, thats what I thought, It seems to me when shooting at 1/200 and consciously stabilizing myself while shooting that I shouldnt have camera shake in that environment. I seem to remember back when shooting film, I could hand hold a camera with a 50mm to 70mm lens anywhere from 1/60 to 1/100 without camera shake problems as long as I was stabile. </p>

<p>Vail, that may be my problem that I'm moving too much in between recomposition. I thought I try to minimize movement, but its possible that I'm not. When shooting something somewhat fast pace like a wedding it can be slightly challenging. I'll try out your test and see what happens, thank you</p>

<p>Bob, I've felt I need to have my equipment sent in to Canon to be checked, I'm uncertain of costs, but it really is a necessity with any working professional to have their equipment working propoerly producing sharp images. I wasn't sure if it was problem with me, the lenses, or the camera, but running the test you were referring to may help me with the process of elimination. Thank you</p>

<p>Ian, thank you for your response, yes that's generally how I compose, lock the focus then recompose. I've experienced the same problem I think with the focus locking on high contrast items. I provided another example that seems more on the lines of what I was talking about with the camera shake</p>

<p>Sheri and Nadine, I'm using autofocus, one shot, I have my focal point in the center, I usually lock the

focus on the subject with the main shutter release on top, if I have time I try to focus on the eyes, then

recompose while focus is locked and shoot. And yes, I've had the same thing happen with other

lenses, such as my 70-200, but I thought with that lense was mainly because my shutter speed wasnt

high enough, I try to shoot, well over 1/200 when I shoot with it, but when I have a flash, the highest I can

go is 1/200th to sinc with the flash. I've been noticing the problem more and more with my 24-70

though. </p><p>The example I showed looks like it my have been a misfocus, here is another

better example of the camera shake I'm talking about</p><div></div>

<p>Thank you all, there is an example shot attachment with the original message above. <br>

Frank, i shoot in manual in camera and ttl on flash, I generally bounce the flash indoors, but the area was pretty open on this last shoot, lots of windows allowing ambient light. But i've even had the problem outdoors as well with no flash shooting at acceptably fast shutter speeds. </p>

<p>I hesitate and almost feel like a beginner posting this question because I've a working professional for some time now, but I've been having serious issues with what seems to me as camera shake. The issue has been reoccurring over numerous assignments, such as my most recent event. To say the least it's driving me bonkers. I'm shooting with a Cannon 5D Mark II with a 24-70mm F/2.8L, 70-200mm F/2.8mmL, and 50mm F/1.2. In the most recent event I photographed the grand opening of a used car dealership, mostly indoor but well lit. I used cannon speedlite 580EX II as a fill flash. I know to shoot a shutter speed over the focal length, but for example shooting at 1/200th of second with my 24-70mm I had many issues with unsharp images. I'd like to think I have pretty steady hand when I'm shooting, but I dont believe at 1/200th of second that'd really be much of an issue, right? I'm wondering if it could possibly be my lens, but I've noticed similar issues with my other lenses as well. Please can anyone offer any suggestions or ideas as to what the cause may be? Please be kind, thank you</p><div></div>

<p>I'm in the market for a large capacity and fast memory card, I typically use promaster or sandisk, but I recently found on Ebay a company selling "pixelflash" memory cards for a very reasonable price. I was wondering if anybody has experience with this brand card, and if so would you say it is reliable and fairly fast? I'm specifically looking at the 64 gb 533x-Pro Compact Flash card</p>

<p>Thank you for all your responses, I've been fairly ignorant about Mac computer technology in the past, and have probably improperly backed up a lot of my work. I just started constructing a new system of backing up my files after reading a lot of diggloyd's advice, but because I'm having trouble following a lot the jargon and technologic terms its been a slow process for me, but im learning. I have a lot of fixing and clean up to do because I'm so deep in files and numerous external hard drives being incorrectly backed up or not backed up at all. I've already used Carbon Copy Cloner to clone my bootable drive, but I was using the Time Machine to backup a lot of my data and photography files on another internal hard drive. Would anyone advise doing it differently, with CCC instead or am I going about it the best way? Thanks again</p>

<p>Ok, this may be a dumb question, but I was curious if you drag and drop one hard drive to another back up hard drive will it affectively clone that hard drive? So, if the first one were to crash, would it be backed up on the second still through this method stated? please be kind, thanks for your time</p>

<p> I'm hoping someone can point me in the right direction when it comes to merchant account companies for Art Fairs. I have recently been accepted to my first couple shows which will be next month. I've been researching like mad for a good merchant account company to use for credit card transactions, but there are so many out there with so many varying pros and cons. Its pretty overwhelming, maybe I'm over analyzing it, but I want to make a wise decision. I'd like to use a wireless credit card terminal for my transactions. I see that there are hundreds of those machines as well. Since it seems to be more of short term thing as of now, I believe it would be best to find a company that offers month to month contracts as opposed to year long ones. I'm also, of course, trying to keep my cost down. So, with all that said, does anybody have suggestions on companies they have had positive experience with? Any help on this matter is greatly appreciated. Thank you</p>

<p>I know this question is like comparing apples with oranges, canon vs nikon, but I've been using Digital Photo Professional for the last 5 years or so and I should have made the move to another raw conversion software a long time ago. DPP served its purpose and does a pretty good job, but I've had a problem with this program shutting down on me constantly during my editing process. I'm looking to move on to another raw file converter program and was just curious what thoughts others have about which ones work best for them. I appreciate anyones time to help me out, thanks.</p>

<p>Patience? I think waiting 8+ months is being patient. I do appreciate that the matter may be fixed soon, but right now I'm trying to run a business. I have potential customers that I have directed to that site to view my work for sale. That was my mistake thinking the site was working properly by now. </p>

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<p>I've been a member with photo.net for a couple years now, and signed up with image pro approximately 8 months ago. And in those 8 months Image Pro has never worked right. I would think that by now they would have all there glitches fixed, but no, I still have the same thing popping up when I try to view my site..."Something Bad has Happened, please try again." Which by the way sounds horrible, sounds like my computer will crash or something. However, the worst part about it is, when I direct a potential buyer or client to my site, I may loose the sale because there is no telling whether the site is working or not. <br>

I searched the forums and seems that the same thing is being said, that the site is still being worked on. Is this really the case? I've been waiting some time for these problems to be fixed now. I feel like I should just give up on Image Pro and pay a $1000+ on a getting a site built by professionals. I'm hoping someone can tell me something different. The URL to my site that hardly ever works is http://www.photography.com/teranphoto</p>

 

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Paul, thanks for your response. I understand what your saying, however I submitted 4 photos to Alamy, 2 of which were

rejected. One for two much noise due to the issue of sharpening, the reason for my original posting. I'm therefore

reediting it with no sharpening in the RAW conversion process. The other photo was rejected for not enough detail,

which is total hogwash. I shot that photo with the same in-camera and raw conversion settings as the other. I'm also

shooting with a Canon 5d with professional lenses. I magnified to 300 percent and can see detail. So, if Alamy wants no

sharpening, I dont understand why they would be rejecting a photo for lack of detail when it has it. Unless, they are

giving me a polite way of rejecting it because they don't like it. I'm fairly certain thats not the case because I've sold the

photo numerous times as art printed up to 30 x 40 inches. It seems to me their standards at Alamy are a little far

fetched. I don't know, im new to this

I've been researching the correct way to sharpen an image for best professional quality. I made the mistake of using the in-camera

sharpening in the past and have found some of my photos to have too much noise. In many forums i have read not to use in-camera

sharpening. Also in reading Alamy stock agencies guidelines they confirmed this. However, in many of the forums I've read that its best

to sharpen in post production during the RAW conversion. Alamy says "When converting from RAW, ensure all sharpening is turned off -

it’s applied by default in Photoshop". Is this true? and if so should I be using unsharp masking to further sharpen after editing? I've found

USM to cause too much noise as well. Any thoughts on this would be appreciated

Quang thanks for the info, I checked out your site, If you dont mind me asking how successful are you selling your work

as stock through it? It was something I considered in contrast to putting my photos on a stock agency so they could take

a large percentage of the sales. Also, how do you go about marketing your photography on your own personal site?

Thanks

Thanks Gary, you have beautiful images on your site, it makes me miss california even more

I'm brand new to the business of stock photography. I've searched high and dry through the forums to determine the answer to a question

that may seem silly to most. I was just curious if i've been selling images as artwork or fine art can I still sell them as stock photos? If

they are in different markets is it legal to sell images both as art and stock? Sorry if it seems like a stupid question, I appreciate any help

with my question, thank you

I've decided to invest in a nice large professional printer rather than fork over money to printing labs. I'm

looking to print large archival gallery style prints to sell. I've been researching tons and have found

articles galore stating which printers are the best. So far, I've found HP, Canon, and Epson are top of the

line. I was interested in the Epson stylus Pro 9880, but have read how HP printers, inks and papers

produce longer lasting archival prints up to 250 years. Anyway, I'm curious what opinions other

photographers might have. Thanks

kerry, thanks, im referring to conditions in which a tripod is not conducive, when shooting

travel photography on the go, shooting people where its pretty inconvieniant and time

consuming to be hooking up my camera to my tripod everytime i want to shoot a picture