peterridding

<p>Hi<br>

I have the 17-55 2.8 on my 60D and it is a fantastic combination. You won't need your flash. It takes sharp and crisp shots. I use it all the time, rarely changing to my 70-300. A great, though heavy, carry around lens for travel, landscape and portrait. I read it missed the L category only through less weather proofing. I've shot in misty rain no problems. It was over $1700 when I bought it, much less now ($1300? or less).<br>

I recommend it.<br>

Cheers.</p>

<p>Does the remote shutter cable for the 450D work on the 60D?<br>

Thanks.</p>

<p>Thank you for all the very enlightening comments, they are all pertinent to me. and I do wear glasses, but for some reason take them off when shooting. Strange, but I find it easier.<br>

Still coming to grips with the "imprinting" but sure I can learn about this.<br>

Seems like the 60D is the way to go when I update. The 7D would be great except for the price and the size, as I carry my camera gear when doing several day tramps in NZ and the 450D is already quite heavy, especiall with the associated gear I take.<br>

I mostly seem to end up with landscapes (but photograph other genres as well) so would my 17-55mm f2.8 lens, 70-300 f4-5.6 and 50mm f1.8 (all Canon) really benefit from the 60D?<br>

I really appreciate that the 60D can be used as a master flash for my speedlite too.<br>

Any further comments on the above?<br>

Thanks again.</p>

<p>Thank you for all the informative answers. I believe I am on the right track now, cleared my thoughts a lot.<br>

Cheers,<br>

Peter.</p>

<p>I have done my homework on the different Canon bodies available and now would like to hear from members who actually have the cameras. I have the 450D and want to upgrade to another Canon crop camera, as I have a great crop lens (17-55mm f2.8 IS USM) as well as other lenses. The 7D is too expensive for me so what does everyone think as a good upgrade?<br>

Thanks for any responses and information.<br>

Peter.</p>

<p>Hi, I've been using 7,7,3, in that descending order - if it helps. Seems to make the landscapes sharper.<br>

Cheers.</p>

<p>Learning is what it is all about. Hard to bounce a built in flash, so maybe invest in a separate flash?<br>

Using a higher ISO helps, but can create noise. Editing out the shadows will be hard.<br>

Hope this is more constructive.</p>

<p>Hi Mike<br>

After much researching and contacting Canon directly, I found out you can only add metadata such as key words, captions, etc through Zoom Browser (which I don't use, I use DPP) or the windows programme itself (My Pictures), which is the easier.<br>

Also you can only add to Jpegs not RAW.<br>

Really weird, even the Canon guy (Australia) reckons.<br>

Does this help?</p>

<p>I have a LED sharp aquos tv. Should I be showing my finished images in sRGB or adobeRGB, does it make any difference?<br>

Thanks.<br>

I think this topic pertains to digital darkroom as it is viewing the finished digital image.<br>

Cheers,<br>

Peter.</p>

<p>None<br>

Av or TV</p>

<p>Hi Mike, only used LR a little, as now have ACR (adobe camera raw) that comes with CS4 and find the interface a little more user friendly. The two programs are mostly the same. I just use the basic ones that are not covered in DPP. I haven't explored CS4 (photoshop) to use it confidently yet, but really it seems to be for manipulating photos rather than editing.<br>

I only have both because I was able to buy them cheaply as part of my job. You only need one for editing - LR or ACR. If you are into manipulating photos as well as making them look better with basic editing, go for photoshop 4, otherwise LR2<br>

As stated, I really like DPP in conjunction with my 450D, and don't really do much more with the majority of my shots, not because they are great, but I don't print many, just view them on my computer and as projects on the TV.<br>

Any help?</p>

<p>I use DPP for downloading my RAW files and basic post processing. I agree with John, it is the best for Canon users. I don't think it is slow or buggier.<br>

I then use ACR (or Lightroom) for any fine tuning that DPP doesn't give.<br>

However, I disagree with John in the management side. DPP names and puts my images wherever I want, and the default setting is perfect for "My Pictures" in Windows viewer.<br>

My little bit of input,<br>

Cheers.</p>

<p>Does anyone have a canon pixma 560 printer? Any ideas about this printer for general printing, scanning, and quality of photos? Expensive to run? I have a canon 450D. <br>

Thanks.</p>

<p>I believe the premiere is for making a movie out of your still pics and videos, with titles, transitions, music and voice over.<br>

Cheers.</p>

<p>Hi<br>

Was waiting to see if anyone answered German's question about sRGB and Adobe RGB as work colour space. I do not print 99% of my images, but view them on my monitor or DVD on the TV. I shoot in RAW. I have DPP set to sRGB work space for raw converting, then send as a TIFF to ACR5.5 to do the extra editing that DPP has not got. I have changed the work space to sRGB also.<br>

Is this correct? If I use Adobe RGB for both work spaces, wouldn't I just be throwing all my work away when I convert back to sRGB, such as in a JPEG? This is important to me as I am doing a low key backyard wedding in a few days and they only want JPEGS on a DVD for their monitor or TV.<br>

What space should I work in?<br>

Many thanks for all answers.<br>

Cheers<br>

Peter.</p>

<p>Hi<br>

I went through the same problems and found that I had to sharpen the JPEG again in DPP. Are you viewing both the RAW and JPEG in DPP, and not in Windows Picture Gallery? It seems as if you are.</p>

<p>I hope someone can answer Jonathon's question about the zip files transferring to the new computer and showing up as the neatly organised ones he copied to the external hardrive. I have done the same, using windows vista to copy, then schedule a back up every week. It works, and only the new or changed files are added, after the first big back up. However, I haven't had to restore yet, so am interested. Will they be in their original folders - I think so.<br>

Also Jonathan, you shouldn't have to start over, but if you do, just open the hard drive through "my computer", select the files you want, and press delete, very simple.<br>

Cheers.</p>

<p>Thank you for the answers. I am on the right path!<br>

Cheers,<br>

Peter.</p>