richard_crowe4
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Posts posted by richard_crowe4
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<p>The following should be part of your kit:<br>
1. Filters... A top-line CPL filter will darken the skies, reduce reflections from rocks and water and reduce the dynaic range to one more easily captured by your sensor. A GND filter might be useful to avoid burned out skies...<br>
2. Lens hood... Absolutely essential to protect yur lens from physical damage as well as from flare...<br>
3. Hotshoe flash... Extremely useful for fill light outdoors...<br>
4. Camera protector... I always have an OPTECH Rainsleeve and some heavy rubber bands when shooting in a desert environment to protect my camera from blowing dust and grit...<br>
5. A neoprene camera strap... This will reduce the apparent weight of the camera and will make the later hours of each travel day more pleasant...<br>
Naturally, lots of camera memory as well as a spare battery or two will keep your mind at ease and ensure that you don't miss out on any photo opportunities. I use Sterlingtek batteries for my Canon cameras and consider them the equal of the Canon OEM batteries at a lot lower price. I would assume that the Sterlingtek batteries for Nikon cameras are equally as good.</p>
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<p>Research the restrictions imposed by the sirlines on carry-on bags. They are different. As an example on my trip to China last year, my international flight on China Airlines had different size/weight restrictions from the domestic Chinese airlines which I used to fly around inside that country.<br>
A tip for overweight camera bags... Wear a photo vest and put some of your heavier items in the vest along with one camera/lens around your neck while going through security. Replace the items back in your bag in the boarding area.<br>
Another tip... Travel with lighter weight carry-on bags. I have a wheeled Lowepro Case which is just too heavy to use as a carry-on where they have a weight restriction on carry-on bags. Since, you will be handling the bags yourself, you don't need as much protection.<br>
Final Tip... Straps can be a problem. I traveled to Alaska with a Lowepro backpack which was quite large and also had bulky shoulder and waist straps. These straps were so bulky thatI almost didn't get to carry the bag on one flight because it had a hard time fitting in the box which indicates maximum carry-on size.</p>
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<p>VIDEO CAPABILITY... I never thought that I would have much use for video capability (barring an earthquake or violent revolution while I was traveling with my 7D). However, last week, I learned a new use for video - identifying my still images.</p>
<p>I was shooting a series of models at a beauty school and wanted to keep track of their names. I noticed a fellow photographer pointing his camera at a model and asking her name and email address while recording video. That way he had the identification linked on the same CF card to his still images.</p>
<p>I wish that I had this capability during last tear's trip to China. I would have been able to remember a lot of information regarding my still images. I could, as an example, record some of the information provided by my guides. I tried (unsuccessfully to write down the information I needed and to use a tape recorder). The video recording would have been far better.</p>
<p>BTW: shooting in the lowest video quality doesn't use that much memory. The ease of recording the information far outweighs the extra memory I would use...</p>
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<p>Linda,</p>
<p>I am glad that you asked this question because he procedure for setting AEB is different from my other 1.6x Canon cameras (I have cameras ranging from the very old D60 to the 40D plus my new 7D). I played with my new 7D and am glad that I did because of the difference between the controls of that camera and my older DSLR cameras.</p>
<p>Using the 7D, go to your menu setting in the second red grouping. The first selection is Expo.comp./AEB and shows you a linear scale showing where your exposure compensation and auto exposure bracketing (AEB) has been set.</p>
<p>To change the settings, press the "set" button which shows you a screen with the title Exposure comp./AEB setting and a linear scale to show you the settings for your exposure compensation/Auto Exposure bracketing.</p>
<p>You adjust the AEB with the main dial (top of camera). The linear scale will change to show three white lines. The longer center white line shows you your exposure compensation (which will be at zero unless it has been adjusted) and the two outboard white lines will show you the extent of AEB. Moving the main dial will place the outboard lines further from the zero point indicating that you are dialing in a greater amount of AEB. Moving the Quick Control Dial (back of camera) will adjust your exposure compensation. You will see that the center white line on the scale moves to the left (darker) or to the right (lighter). There is a reminder on each side of the menu screen showing you which dial adjusts which value.</p>
<p>You can adjust the AEB or the exposure compensation alone or you can adjust both the AEB and the exposure compensation. Activate your selection by pressing the "set" button.</p>
<p>I use AEB in conjunction with exposure compensation in night shooting. I have found that a -1 stop exposure compensation combined with the three stops of AEB will usually put me in the ballpark exposure wise. I will get one exposure at -2 stops from the meter reading, one exposure at 1 stop and one exposure at the meter reading. One of these three exposures will usually be good and they also are decent for HDRI. if you don't use the -1 stop exposure compensation your AEB sequence is usually over exposed on the 0 and =1 stop compensation.</p>
<p>BTW: you can adjust the exposures by using the menu functions at C.Fn I: Exposure<br /> C.Fn I:1 allows you to select exposure increments at 1/2 or 1/3 stop increments<br /> C.Fn I:4 is <strong>VERY IMPORTANT</strong> unless auto bracketing auto cancel is off (selection 1) the AEB will be canceled every time the camera is turned off. I always leave my AEB auto cancel off and I will cancel or begin my AEB with the Exposure comp./AEB setting menu setting.<br /> C.Fn I:5 allows you to select the sequence in which the AEB is shot. <br /> O = first shot no AEB, second shot minus AEB, third shot plus AEB<br /> 1 = first shot minus AEB, second shot no AEB, third shot plus AEB</p>
<p>AEB is one of the least used but IMO most important tools on a Canon DSLR. It is handy not only for HDR imaging but, to ensure that you don't miss out on important shots because of exposure error. Except for the extra memory used (I have plenty of memory) and the extra images to sort out in post processing, it has really no downside and it can save shots. However, I never use AEB for sports or action shooting since I will normally want more than 3 images per shutter button actuation and because I want each of those images to have the same exposure.</p>
<p>I wish that Canon allowed a five increment AEB with the 7D. The some full frame series cameras have a five increment AEB capability and some Nikons also have that extended AEB. However, some of the lower-line Nikons do not have the three shot AEB burst capability.</p>
<p>It is perfectly correct that the camera should be in AV mode so that the focus doesn't change with the f/stop changing. The AV mode will keep the f/stop consistent and will change shutter speed to compensate for exposure.</p>
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<p>I agree that you probably are not getting the use out of your cameras that you could possibly get. I spent two weeks in China carrying a Canon 30D and a 40D with 17-55mm and 70-200mm lenses attached. The camera with the 17-55mm was always around my neck and the camera with the 70-200mm lens was in a holster case at my side. Both cameras were ready to shoot in a split second. Both cameras had their hoods on, batteries fresh and a CF card installed. Both cameras had their hoods on. All that I needed to do to shoot with the 17-55mm lens was to flip the switch turning it on. I could even shoot without looking through the viewfinder; which I did to get this "forbidden" picture of Chinese soldiers lining up as I left a restaurant. If I had the camera in a bag, I could not have achieved this picture because their officer was shouting in English to us - "NO PICTURES! NO CAMERA!"<br>
http://rpcrowe.smugmug.com/Travel/CHINA-FOCUS-TOUR-2010-XIAN/0777-Soldiers/865287295_dPEvH-L.jpg</p>
<p>I carried the 70-200mm lens on a second camera (also with hood on and CF card installed) usually in a holster case with a hand strap attached. It took just a second to get this camera in action...</p>
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<p>Manila is a very interesting and very crowded city with both good and bad areas. It is very photogenic, buildings, people and scenery are all great.<br>
I never saw much that interested me photographically in the Angeles City area. I never considered that area very photogenic.<br>
I think that much of the Subic Bay area is quite beautiful. Again, people and scenery would be the most attractive subjects.<br>
Two places that I would suggest going is the Fortress of Corrigidor in Manila Bay http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Corregidor_Island and the mountain city of Bagiuo http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Baguio</p>
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<p>The 18-55mm Kit Lens should be what you need... However, try to get an IS version. Besides having the Image Stabilization capability, that version is better optically. That lens should run you between $65 and $100 USD. The 55-250mm lens makes a nice companion to the 18-55mm. This lens would probably run used from $150-$200.<br>
If you are really on a budget, think about a used Sigma 70-300mm f/4-5.6 DG APO as your telephoto. You would not have image stabilization but you might be able to get this lens used at a pretty cheap price.<br>
I have not used this lens but have seen some nice write-ups like this one...<br>
http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1029&message=18145257<br>
However, try to get the 55-250mm IS lens. That would also make a decent portrait lens for you...</p>
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<p>BTW: I shot at ISO 200 and would use that ISO again. </p>
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<p>If I were going to cover any area with video, I would buy or build a camera stablizer like this one:<br>
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<p>If you cannot stay in the Park itself, I would stay as close as possible to the Park entrance. I stayed about 20 miles from the Park entrance and didn't realize that the Valley and Meadows are an additional twenty miles or so from the entrance. Last year, when I visited in late May, the roads in the Park were being repaired and it once took me two hours from the entrance until I hit the Valley due to frequent and long traffic delays.</p>
<p>I would purchase either <em>The Photographer's Guide to Yosemite</em>, by Michael Frye or <em>Photo Secrets Yosemite</em> by Andrew Hudson to help plan any photo visit. ( http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Dstripbooks&field-keywords=yosemite+photography&x=47&y=49 ) either of these books will tell you the best times of the day and the best sequence in which to visit the various areas in Park. As with any landscape photography, timing is critical due to light conditions.</p>
<p>I shot with a pair of 1.6x cameras and Tokina 12-24mm F/4, Canon 24-70mm f/2.8L and Canon 70-200mm f/4L IS lenses. I used the 70-200mm quite often both to compress distances and to isolate portions of the scenery. Ensure that you have a good polarizing filter which will do a lot to improve your images. I shot everything using a tripod. See my Yosemite gallery at;<br>
http://rpcrowe.smugmug.com/Other/Yosemite-National-Park/12270384_wRjTD#876105480_znpKf</p>
<p>If I were in my private vehicle (which you are allowed to do prior and subsequent to the prime tourist season), I would definitely bring my own lunch and some refreshing drinks. Sunscreen might also be a good investment. Dress in layers.</p>
<p>Give yourself plenty of time. If possible, plan for several days because in April, you may just hit inclement weather conditions.</p>
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<p>The Caverns are creatively lit and using flash is not only useless due to the size of the area but, counterproductive in that it would diminish the lighting designed to show off the formations. Flash would also mess up other photographers who are attempting to shoot available light shots.</p>
<p>Using a tripod is permitted and is an excellent idea especially if you are not visiting the Caverns during peak periods when traffic along the walkways can be quite heavy. I recommend that you bracket your exposure in three shot groupings with at least one f/stop between shots. Using aperture priority exposure, I shot with one shot over the meter reading, one shot at the meter reading and one shot under the meter reading. If I were to return to shoot the Caverns, i would adjust my camera to a -1 EV setting and then shoot in three shot bracketed exposures which will result in one shot at 2-stops less, one shot at 1-stop less and one shot at the metered reading. This would give me a better HDR capability. Aperture priority is the best choice. If you are an automatic shooter, your camera will try to use its built-in flash. If you shoot Programmed and or Time priority, your camera will use different f/stops which may be difficult to composite into an HDR image.</p>
<p>HDR is one of the reasons that I would shoot three shot groupings. My canon DSLR cameras, when set on burst mode, will shoot in three shot AEB groupings and then stop firing. This is a very handy capability. I would either use a remote release or use my camera's 10-second delay to fire off the three shot groups. Using 30 second delay would increase the time to photograph the Caverns as would having to shoot individual bracketed shots. I believe that some of the low end Nikon cameras don't have the three shot AEB burst capability which my Canon cameras can shoot.</p>
<p>I would allot plenty of time, memory and battery power for my tour through the caverns. There is a lot to shoot. I would wear a light jacket or sweatshirt because the Caverns are about 50 degrees or so Fahrenheit all year long. I would carry a bottle of water because walking through the Caverns for a couple of hours can become a thirsty affair and the only place to buy water is at the bottom of the elevators which bring you down to the Caverns. I would also carry a small penlight flash to facilitate adjusting my camera. Remember, bring everything you need down to the caverns from the parking lot. It is too late if you are half way through the Caverns and you realize that you have left your extra camera battery in your car (This is personal experience talking!). Remember, bring everything back with you ensuring that you don't litter these magnificent Caverns.</p>
<p>As far as the bat egress from the Caverns, that is a seasonal thing. Additionally, there are not as many bats now as there were 30 or 40 years ago when it looked like a column of smoke as the bats erupted from the cave mouth. I believe that it is pesticides that have depleted the bat colony. Cameras are not allowed at the amphitheater by the mouth of the cave because it is believed that flash will blind the bats and since most P&S cameras will automatically flash in the low light as the bats are leaving the cave. If you are determined to photograph the bats leaving the cave, there is a parking lot above the cave entrance from which you can shoot. A long lens and a timed exposure will get you an image of the bats streaming out of the cave mouth looking like dark gray smoke. Forget about flash in this area also...</p>
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<p>I own several prime lenses (300mm f/4L IS, 400mm f/5.6L, 135mm f/2.8 Soft Focus and 90mm Tamron f/2.8 Macro) however, must of my general purpose and travel shooting is done with a pair of zoom lenses (17-55mm f/2.8 IS and 70-200mm f/4L IS) on a Canon 7D and a 40D.</p>
<p>My reason for shooting with zooms is quite simple. I crop in the camera and generally have to do minimal cropping in post processing. </p>
<p>Additionally, these two zoom lenses provide exceptional image quality and IS capability. IS capability, especially in a longer lens, is something that is important to me. I can shoot using my f/4L IS lens as slow as 1/60 or even 1/30 second and get very good results. There is no way that I could shoot at equivalent 1/120 or 1/60 second speeds using a non IS equipped 200mm f/2.8 lens and get the same percentage of sharp imagery.</p>
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<p>I would definitely recommend the 70-200mm f/4L IS lens as a great general purpose telephoto lens. I consider the 70-200mm f/4L IS as one of the finest lenses that I have ever used. And in over fifty years of photography, much of it professional, that includes a heck of a lot of glass.<br /> I use my f/4L IS as half of my all-around general and travel photography duo of lenses on two 1.6x cameras; the 40D and 7D. The 7D has replaced my 30D with which I shot paired with the 40D for years. The other half of that lens duo is a 17-55mm f/2.8 IS lens. This is the finest combination of lenses I have ever had the pleasure of working with.<br /> I would recommend the 70-200mm f/4L IS lens to anyone who needs a top-line general purpose telephoto lens which is light enough to carry virtually anywhere. The 70-200mm f/2.8L IS lens is also terrific (especially the Mark II model) but it is a LOT HEAVIER and is more than I wish to carry around during 8-12 hour walk-around shooting days. I can carry the f/4L IS and a second 1.6x camera at the weight of the f/2.8L (series) lens alone.<br /> The 70-200mm f/4L IS lens, by virtue of its newly designed rounded aperture blades is quite a nice portrait lens along with being a great general purpose telephoto. It also accepts a 1.4x TC quite decently, turning it into a 98-280mm f/5.6 lens.</p>
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<p>Make sure this is a legitimate job.... Years ago, a friend of mine was conned into paying an "agency" for a cruise line photography job. There never was a job and he was out the fee that he paid.<br>
I would check with the cruise lines regarding jobs...</p>
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<p>If I wasn't going to take my DSLR cameras (yes, I shoot with two) on a trip to Europe I would not go on the trip... PERIOD, END OF STATEMENT.<br>
<br /> BTW: Fortunately, MY WIFE doesn't control what, when and where<strong> I</strong> shoot!<br>
And, BTW... My wife and I have a very happy twenty-year marriage...<br>
However, on another trip, to Branson, Missouri, I only brought one camera and a 17-55mm f/2.8 IS lens and flash. I really didn't miss anything there...</p>
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<p>What kind of camera do you own. Additionally, what would be your maximum budget? I can only speak for Canon glass...<br>
I would definitely go for a stabilized lens with the fastest aperture you can afford. The 70-200mm f/2.8L IS (or IS ii) comes to mind. F/2.8 is the fastest aperture you can get in a zoom lens. However, you might find these lenses pretty expensive.<br>
However, you can get a less expensive lens if you choose a prime. I just purchased a canon 135mm f/2.8 SF lens for $100 (USD) used and that lens is quite light weight and quite sharp if the soft focus is not dialed in.<br>
Where you may get into problems is with the variable aperture zoom lenses such as the 70-200mm f/4-5.6 IS because f/5.6 is quite slow when shooting under a jungle canopy.<br>
The least expensive Canon telephoto zoom lens is the 55-250mm f/4-5.6. It is rather slow but, the price is right.<br>
I would bring a flash and also a monopod whatever lens that I choose.</p>
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<p>Let me qualify my response... My favorite park for photography "in the Spring before masses of tourists arrive and while the waterfalls are still flowing abundantly" is Yosemite National Park in Central California. However I dislike that park after the hoards of tourists arrive.</p>
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<p>I was once a Mexico aficionado and since I live rather close to the Mexican border at San Diego, I spent many happy days in Baja California. My son-in-law lived in Baja for several years and sold property down there. We both speak Spanish quite adequately.<br>
However, neither of us will cross the border until the violence of the drug wars ceases. Although I love Mexico and the Mexicans, I consider it too dangerous to travel there.<br>
And this is from a guy who was a combat camera man in Vietnam!<br>
The two safest countries for a tourist are China and Japan (nuclear threat, earthquakes and tsunamis excepted). I would walk virtually anywhere in those countries day or night.<br>
In Europe, I would simply use my intuition and good sense. I would not walk into any type of environment in which I would not feel comfortable in the U.S.A.. This includes rough areas and deserted areas. I would also not ever follow any person who pretends to want to guide you to a "great place for photos" or a "great place for shopping".</p>
<p>I would not place my camera or camera bag on a seat next to me or on a table in a sidewalk restaurant without having the strap connected to me in some way. A good way to carry camera equipment is in an insulated bag meant for food. The likelihood that a snatcher will rip off a bag which may contain an apple and a ham sandwich is (IMO) rather small.</p>
<p>A standard procedure for the rip-off artists in Naples, Italy (mostly young kids) was to hit your shirt pocket hoping to pry loose some cash or other valuable articles. They were experts in catching the items mid-air and beating a hasty retreat.</p>
<p>Two precautions that I will usually take when traveling ANYWHERE. I don't carry a wallet and I do not display large quantities of cash. I carry my passport, one credit (not debit) card and the majority of my cash in a pouch around my neck under my shirt where it is not visible. I have a small leather pass case in which I carry small denominations of local currency and that goes in the front pocket (rear pockets are too vulnerable) of my trousers. I replenish the ready cash from neck pouch to pass case in an area such as a men's room where my cash is not obvious. I also like to wear a vest when traveling... I can carry the camera over my shoulder but, under the vest for security. Also having so many pockets (my camera vest probably has over 20-pockets) a pick pocket might be confused.</p>
<p>In order to foil a "cut and run" thief, take a look at this camera safety strap which incorporates a metal reinforcement making it impervious to cutting.<br>
http://www.corporatetravelsafety.com/catalog/carrysafe-camera-security-strap-p-337.html</p>
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<p>Paul,<br>
I don't know where you are based but, please realize that the distances in the Desert Southwest are considerable and traveling can eat up a lot of your time. I would try not to plan on seeing too many places or you will be spending most of your time behind the wheel, rather than behind the camera.<br>
Also, remember that the climatic conditions can vary greatly during March and that the accessibility of locations can depend on their altitude. I would dress in layered clothing and I would definitely wear a brimmed hat of some type. The brimmed hat along with liberal doses of sunscreen will prevent sunburn. It should be quite cool in most areas but, the clear skies and bright sun (especially at the higher altitudes) can inflict some nasty burns - especially on folks from the East who have not at that time of year been used to the sun at that intensity.<br>
On the other hand, unless your trip overlaps the school Spring break period, you should be able to avoid the crowds that plague this area during the Summer. <br>
I would include a small ice chest (the Styrofoam models are fine and can be purchased in Vegas and thrown away after the trip). Many of the photogenic locations in Utah do not have accessibility of fast food shops or restaurants. It's nice to have some food along to tide you over.<br>
Regarding equipment... IMO, to cover this area well, a tripod is just about mandatory. Many photographers make the mistake of shooting the vast vistas with an UWA lens and come out with very dull and uninteresting images. I like to shot with longer focal length lenses and make panos when I need to cover vistas. Other times, I just shoot with longer lenses to isolate portions of the scene.</p>
<p>http://rpcrowe.smugmug.com/Other/DESERT-SOUTHWEST/Red-Canyon-001-Lonely-Tree/864636205_hPsJe-L.jpg</p>
<p>The time of day that you shoot is quite important... The looks of your scene will change considerably from morning to dusk. "Photographing the Southwest" by Laurent Martres, especially Volume 1 ("Southern Utah") as mentioned above is a great guide. It provides hints regarding the best times for capturing certain vistas. Also great are the Utah tourist guides of all types provided free at tourist information centers.</p>
<p>http://rpcrowe.smugmug.com/Other/DESERT-SOUTHWEST/Zion-010/865849284_5khvr-L.jpg</p>
<p>Two more pieces of equipment that I find very valuable when shooting in Utah is a CPL filter (which could be considered almost mandatory) and a camera protector such as the OPTECH Rain Sleeve which can protect your camera from both precipitation and from blowing dust.<br>
A good base for a few days might be Panguitch Utah. You can cover Cedar Breaks, Bryce canyon and possibly Kodachrome Basin state park from that location. On your way from Panguitch to Bryce canyon and Kodachrome Basin, you drive south on Utah 89 and then turn east on Utah 12, crossing the Virgin River. Almost immediately, you are in the Red Canyon area. This is wonderfully scenic in the mornings or late afternoons and there are great turn off spots from which you can shoot some wonderful views. You hardly have to walk ten feet from your car to experience the awe inspiring sight of tall red rock formations rising straight up into the blue sky.<br>
A final thought... Keep an ear tuned to the weather reports. You can experience snow at the higher elevations.</p>
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<p>Wild Animal Park Photo Safari Truck Tour<br>
Zoo with 70-200mm<br>
http://rpcrowe.smugmug.com/Animals/San-Diego-Wild-Animal-Park-and/Panda-002/601638366_jvVPt-L.jpg<br>
Wild Animal Park with 70-200mm<br>
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<p>I use a 70-200mm f/4L IS lens for the San Diego Zoo. The enclosures are not that large and 200mm (on my 1.6x cameras) is just fine. However, if you visit the San Diego Wild Animal Park (they now call it the San Diego Zoo Safari Park) which is about 30 miles or so north of the City of San Diego; you will be better served with your 100-400mm lens. The enclosures are far larger in size at the Wild Animal Park.</p>
<p>I recommend that the first thing a photographer should do at the San Diego Zoo is to take the double deck tram tour. This is not so much for getting pictures from the top of the bus, but to get an idea of how the park is laid out and where you might want to shoot. The aerial tramway (as mentioned above) can give you a great overall view of the park.</p>
<p>BTW: The Wild Animal Park has a tethered balloon ascent which can, on a clear day, provide spectacular views. There is also a train ride around the African veldt enclosure. The Wild Animal Park additionally has a truck ride in the veldt area which gives you up-close access to the animals. This is fairly expensive and needs reservations.</p>
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<p>The view from Victoria Peak can be spectacular, day, golden hour or at night, if the weather cooperates. On my last trip to H.K. (and the only one in which I was shooting digital), the weather did not cooperate and, although I visited the Peak twice during my trip, I did not get the shots I wanted...<br>
A great series of shots can be had during the night laser and light show. Shoot from near the Kowloon Ferry landing back to H.K.. Get there early because there is always a crowd enjoying the spectacular light shot. If you are not there early, you will have to shoot hand-held over the heads of the crowd. This shot is at 1/30 second @ f/2.8 using a 55mm focal length. ISO 800 with a Canon 30D and a 17-55mm f/2.8 IS lens. Any H.K. tourist office can tell you the time that the event starts.<br>
Another great series of shots can be had along the streets of the Wanshai District. Lots of neon lights from night clubs, etc. <br>
Additionally, Stanley Market is a fun place to visit and to shoot...<br>
Always go to at least one H.K. food market for some nice shots. This was shot using a 30D with 17-55mm f/2.8 IS lens and a little canon 270EX flash and a Joe Demb Flip-It diffuser reflector.<br>
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<p>I think that they just look like poorly composed out of focus images... Nothing artsy about them. However, that's just my opinion. You can play with your imagery using Photoshop and come up with more "painting-like" samples...</p>
Vegas / Death Valley in summer
in Travel
Posted