.th

Hi,

Looking for a Horseman angle finder that fits a 6x9 Graflok type of back. So it would have been one made for the 985, the VH and VH-R, if my sources are correct.

 

Wondering, however, if there are more than one type of the angle finder, they're often announced as items for 980, 985 and VH® but if I'm not mistaken the 980 had a different back than the cameras that came later.

 

Would greatly appreciate first hand info.

 

Kind regards, Th

<p>

Thanks for input D.B.

<br>

 

Not surprised it was hard to understand, I must have been pretty tired when I wrote this..

Initially I was hoping to find square filters, resin or glass, and use Lee's holder system (slotted shade actually). That would leave me with Hitech (I think).

<br>

 

But then a screw-in filter might be just as good for me, but the price for the Heliopans is no joke, esp. since I need two.

<br>

 

Then yesterday I saw <a href="http://www.lightcraftworkshop.com/products.html">variable ND's from Light Craft Workshop</a>, and they certainly seem to be worthy of attention. I'm gonna try to gather some first hand experience, but at this time they seem to be the most tempting of the options I've been looking into. It would certainly be interesting to read if any of Photo.net's user has experience with them.

</p>

This didn't turn out quite as it should, in addition to good alternatives I meant to also ask about brands or types to stay away from (due to colour casts or other low quality issues).

I've been surfing the www for some info on ND filters, as I'm gonna be purchasing a couple soon (uniform, not

grad). I would decide on Lee and call it a day except that I'd like a 4stop and a 7stop (give or take). I've

found only two manufacturers who offer these, Hitech and Heliopan.

 

Do you know of other good alternatives?

Update: This took a while, but finally, after failing to find one locally, I received the spanner wrench I found on the auction site. The two hole spanner nut in my lens had no intentions to move from its state, so I had to work it quite a bit before I managed to remove it, in order to tighten the knob against the bracket to take up the slack. <br /><br />

 

I haven't had the chance to test it properly yet, but it appears that the creeping defect is now successfully dealt with. So I wanted to say many thanks to you Matthew, for your input to this thread, and not least your step by step instructions in <a href="http://www.photo.net/nikon-camera-forum/00Y1Ip">this thread</a>. It was a great help!<br /><br />

 

Regards.<br />

Th

Not holding my breath, but thanks for the link : ) <br><br>

 

I guess what's <i>natural</i> is what one is used to. Coming from Photoshop I find these particular details quite awkward

Does any of you know if certain Lightroom behaviour can be made more Photoshop-like? On my current list for <i>improvements</i> is the lens correction tab, where - oddly enough - only <i>'Rotate'</i> rotates in the opposite direction compared to Photoshop. Another thing I really would like is to be able to move the crop mask on the photo, and not the photo in the crop mask. Not terribly big deals, but would be nice if these two apps could be synced in this respect.<br><br>

 

Regds... Th

Thanks for replies all.

Will look into your suggestions.

 

Regards, Th

Hello

I was wondering if anyone here could recommend a good Exif editor for Mac (10.5). Preferably one that worked with

most if not all common image formats (Raw, PSD, Tiff, jpg,...), and offered batch options.

 

Thanks in advance

Thorir V

<p>thanks Joe and Matthew for input.<br>

I'm gonna see if I can find a tool locally, before I start diy-ing (which I have way too many thumbs for).</p>

<p>Thanks Craig, just what I wanted to hear.<br>

Now I guess I know what the funny looking end of the shift adj. thumbscrew is all about.<br>

Off to surf the internet for a small spanning wrench then... : )</p>

<p>Best<br>

Th</p>

<p>Hello<br>

I just acquired a 35mm PC Nikkor, and like the subject says, it creeps when shifted up. So I was curious if any of you had experienced this, and/or knew of an easy solution to the problem.</p>

<p>Thanks in advance.<br>

Th</p>

<p>JDM, thank you for your input.<br>

I don't see it as fooling around though, on the contrary I wish to learn a certain method, become good at it, and if I do I will have gained a certain knowledge/experience regarding colour correction. If at a later point I find out that I want to do the in_scanner_software conversion, that's fine, I will at least have gotten the experience out of this.</p>

<p>Chris and Les, thank you for your comments.<br /> Perhaps I was not clear, it is the conversion to positive and removal of orange mask process, using Photoshop adjustment layers, I am interested in (if I could I would edit the subject line to be more clear about this). I know many people get good results with scanner software, and I will no doubt have a go at it someday.</p>

<p>Best<br /> Th</p>

<p>Hi<br>

I'm wondering if there is an established technique for scanning negatives as positives, and do the orange cast removal, neg to pos inversion as well as fine cc adjustments by using photoshop adjustment layers.<br>

I know the scanning software is supposed to be able to deal with it, but I'd really like to learn of such a method (if it exists) and be able to fine tune it to my preferences.</p>

<p>(So far I've been importing the negative image to photoshop, adding an adjustment curve layer [cc neg] and adjust the individual channels to cancel out the mask using droppers (making sure not to clip anything of course). On top I place another adjustment curve [invert] where I simply flip the curve to make a positive image. If the colour correction seems way off I turn of [cc neg] and add another cc curve, [cc pos] that's supposed to do the same (cancel the orange mask, sometimes this has given a better result). On top of this I add add the fine tuning controls, cc corrections and/or curves etc...)</p>

<p>It still feels as if I'm a little busy reinventing a wheel here, so if anyone knows of a good description of that wheel, I'd appreciate it greatly : )</p>

<p>Best<br>

Th</p>

<p>Thanks Andrew and Michael for prompt replies.<br>

They helped me looking in the right places, and it seems I am now on the right track...</p>

<p>Best<br>

Th</p>

<p>Rishi.., Thanks for the detailed answer. With my ten thumbs I think it's best I do <strong>not</strong> attempt any such thing :-)</p>

<p>First, I did search, pobably not too well, but the results just had my head spinning (and mostly not about what I'm looking for).<br>

Much seems to be written about everything colour on the www, and much of it seems to be nonsense.</p>

<p>So, this is the situation.<br>

I use ACR as a good part of my workflow, and I'm not entirely happy with the colours it gives me. My version is 4.6, so it isn't excactly up to date. Anyway, some time ago I came across a <a href="http://fors.net/chromoholics/">script</a> (ACR Calibrator) to make a calibration profile using a standard colour checker card, and to my eye (and by comparing the RGB values of the colour checker) the result is much more accurate than when using what ACR gives me. ACR Calibrator hasn't been updated in a while, and it isn't meant for use with my version of ACR. However, like I said above, the results are both more accurate as well as more pleasing to my eyes.</p>

<p>The problem(?) is that by applying the colour profile it clips some of the colour channels, which channel it clips depends on subject (when looking at the image of the CC everything fits nicely within the histogram). Until now I have been using Adobe RGB colour space, but I have noticed that by changing the it to ProPhoto RGB, no colour channels seem to clip (judging by what I've checked so far).</p>

<p>So what I would like to ask you experienced <em>colour managers</em>, is there a good method I could use to create such profiles with my version of ACR (that came with PSCS3)? Or, am I simply overcomplicating things, when I've come across the obvious(?) answer myself, ProPhoto RGB? (which seems to be a topic for at least some educational reading on my behalf)</p>

<p>Thanks in advance<br>

Th</p>

<p><em>"the Minolta 5400, w/ some <strong>modifications</strong>"</em><br>

not to hijack the thread, but would you care to elaborate?</p>

<p>I find your shot quite appealing. Partly because how close it is, but mostly due to what I pick up as intense presence (which it has over most of the other shots imo). At first I was a bit put off by the wide angle effect, but after looking at it some I'm not sure. It certainly has plenty punch..</p>

<p>As for if it would sell I have no idea about. But I can easily picture you building an intriguing series in such/similar style.</p>

<p>On a side note, I dabble some with selfies, and found out at some point that 50mm on a dx was doable, at arms length. Focus manually, shoot plenty, and you'd probably get a few shots with both framing and focus where you want it. Worth a try ;)</p>

<p>Ahh, got it.<br>

Thanks for the reply Randy, it got me looking in the right places, cause although cs3 (which is what I'm using) doesn't have the x-looking symbol, it does have some other controls, including lock. And should anyone looking for the same find this thread at a later point, the trick was that the layer I was trying to unlock had to be acive (of course) <strong>and turned on</strong>, then it can be unlocked by pressing the lock symbol in the layers window/palette.</p>

<p>hi.<br>

i'm working with a file that has a locked layer i can't get rid of. it has the locked symbol, like the background layer, but unlike background where the lock symbol is light grey, this one has a dark grey lock symbol.<br>

i would very much like to unlock the layer so i can delete it, anyone know the secret move?</p>

<p>thanks in advance<br>

th</p>

<p>Well, title says about all. I need a couple of speedrings to mount Chimera boxes on Elinchrom heads, and there is practically no budget for them. So I'm surfing the www for a cheaper alternative, as well as trying to dig up info to see if some of them (the cheaper alt.s) are crap and more money wasted than saved..</p>

<p>All input greatly appreciated<br>

Th</p>

<p>Well, fake or almost tiff, or a halfraw format of some sorts.. I use it because in many cases I find it useful to be able to adjust contrast, black points and highlight recovery (I must say that FD's comment about recoverability does not match my experience, but I will have to thoroughly test it. Fwiw I normally have DxO pull the highlights before outputting though). As well as for fine tuning of WB.<br>

Otoh, it's quite possible that I've dug myself into a hole full inefficiency, which is why I'm trying to figure out if I can fit these dng files into a more effective workflow somehow (am currently using Bridge as an anchor). As of now, Lightroom seems to be the best solution, perhaps the only one since neither C1, Bibble or Aperture support the format...<br>

Thanks for input!</p>

<p>Hi<br>

I use DxO for most of my raw conversions, and among other formats I like to export as dng. I'm trying to figure out what my options are with further working with these files, so far I only know of ACR/Lightroom and Raw developer that make sense of these files, while Apple's Aperture, C1, Bibble, to name a few all seem to ignore them.<br>

Guess I'm hoping for input from DxO users about which options there are for DxO dng files.</p>

<p>Thanks in advance.<br>

Th</p>