jena27

Please help me with one question. I currently shoot with a 300 and solely with dx lenses. So, because the 700 automatically changes to dx settings with dx lenses, does this totally negate all advantages to buying the 700 unless you were to also buy a whole new set of fx lenses? What exactly (besides a narrower crop) do you lose when using dx lenses?

www.planetneil.com or strobist.com

Why don't you go ahead and put them online in a locked gallery and send the link to the Bride and Groom to let them forward to friends and family. That way they can put a personal message with it and send it whenever they want...now or later.

thank you thank you!

Hola! Just a quickie...I have been using Miller's online for my lab (and I love

them). However, I feel like I am getting raped a bit when it comes to 4x6

prints...they charge 1.77 per print. For my "gift with purchase" albums, I feel

like that is really high. Does anyone with a smugmug account use them for

printing? Their 4x6 lustres are just 19 cents and they are printed on kodak

endura...just like millers. Is this a pay for what you get situation...or is

that 149$ a year I'm shelling out to smugmug why they are so much cheaper?

Thanks for the answers.

Maria. I think you were the one that gave me the same answer a few weeks ago...I tried it and LOVE it, as did my clients. Just wanted to say thanks and I second what you're saying!

Hey Nikki. Both totally rad actions and Kevin Kubota's action sets are the easiest most pain free way to achieve what you want. Just google these and they'll pop right up.

Just wanted to give an update to the issue. I did some more research online last night and discovered that apple just settled out of court (on March 26) with two photographers who sued them for false advertising of the color capabilities of the Macbook Pro.

 

So, when I went to the apple store today and mentioned I have been having this issue (without mentioning the lawsuit - I would never be one of those people, I worked in retail too long - they were unusually helpful about it and even offered to exchange my laptop (which I've had since January) for free for a desktop version. I explained that I really need a book for client consultations, so they ended up giving me a new cinema monitor for about half-price. I was at least gratified they made the effort.

Andy, I tried that just now and instead of showing the oversaturated picture I expected, it actually dimmed the colors even more, so I'm not sure that is the answer. However, I read the link from Joshua and the "color blind" mbp sounds exactly like my problem. If that is the case, I am pretty upset about it. I printed the link out and will take it to the Apple store tomorrow just to see what I can accomplish there. I don't have high hopes, but I will keep you informed.

thank you all so much. I'll play with it.

Josh; p.s. I have a meeting tomorrow at the apple store with a "genius" so I will plug my laptop into one of their cinema monitors to see what happens and I will let you know.

Rick, the other screens are not macs...a dell pc and a sony pc (both books). And maybe thats the word, subdued. So what do I do to correct the problem? Is connecting my mac to a separate screen the only fix? And if so, will another mac screen have the same issue? (is no one else having this problem???) (or do the stand-alone monitors have 8-bit screens?)

whoa Jaz! I'm not even sure what language that was :). Please elaborate. Are you saying that if I switch to srgb my photos will be less saturated in printing than they are now? If so, what exactly is srgb and how do I switch to it? Would it make a difference on the web too or just in the printing process?

 

I'm sorry, I'm just now figuring out all of the options for saving and converting color files...

Not bad for a first go, but you did make a few of the classic first wedding mistakes, like cutting off feet (and lots of them), camera tilting issues (which can easily be fixed), and blowing out highlights (are you shooting in RAW? You'd be amazed at what detail you can recover from either under or over-exposed photos).

There is a post a few lines down where I asked this same question but got no

answers so decided to start a new thread and I apologize if someone has to read

it twice.

I use iDVD to create my slideshow for customers...How would I go about creating

the Ken Burns effect in iDVD?

I used the profile the lab sent me to actually calibrate my screen.

 

The lab also sent me sample prints and a cd with the files those pictures were printed from to compare the two and in that comparison the prints were far more saturated than the files appeared on my screen, so I know its not just in me converting my files.

 

Further, my photos look oversaturated on other monitors as well.

I have recently switched to the mac book pro and I am having one big problem.

I'm wondering if I'm alone. Let me preface by saying that I do not have a

separate monitor, I just use the screen on the laptop. I use Huey Pro to

calibrate my screen and the colors are perfect. I also have gotten the setting

from my lab to calibrate it that way in conjunction with Huey. The problem is

not in the color temp or value, I find that every picture is over-saturated when

printed (or even when viewed on a different screen). The colors on my screen

are sorely undersaturated (even websites look more dull on my screen). I am

currently just trying to compensate for this by running an action to desaturate

every picture by 10% or so, but I thought maybe someone might have another idea

(that doesn't include spending a large amount of money on another monitor right

now). Thanks in advance.

question. How do you create the Ken Burns effect in iDVD?

Nadine...you have the setup I am most certainly looking for. I am quite comfortable with highere ISOs, 400 to even 800 if necessary...and I am a "pro" of dragging, so with a combonation of the two, I am confident now that I can achieve what i need to achieve. The only difference is that I want to use an aperture with minimal depth of field for the circumstances, so how would you deal with say, two rows of family members?

Even for group shots on the church? Just one? that doesn't seem like it will pack enough punch.

Yep, I've got the PWs already, just making sure I'll have enough power out of the 800s without having to buy higher powered strobes. Thank you all.

While I consider myself a primarily outdoor, "natural" light shooter, I have

quite a few weddings later this year where I know I am going to have to do the

in-church family portraits. I have been using either a basic softbox (smallish,

with my sb-800) or bounce-flash or a flash bracket for this task up to this

point. I have recently been considering upgrading my equipment for this. Can I

just put both of my sb-800s on stands with umbrellas radio triggered? Is this

an appropriate solution, or is there a better one? Keep in mind that I want to

move very quickly through this part of the day as I just do the traditional

formals because almost every couple wants some form of them. Thus, I want to

keep it simple, but any recommendations are appreciated.

So the reason I asked in the first place is this...like a dummy, i forgot to change it as part of my normal workflow...then I created a flush mount album (in a template based program where I had to upload pictures) I got it totally done and then realized all of the jpegs i had uploaded are only 240 pixels/inch. I need to start over huh?

I just recently switched over to a RAW workflow and I have one question. Why is

it that when I import photos into photoshop converted to jpegs through Camera

RAW that the image size is only 240 pixels/inch? Should I batch process and

change all images to 300 pixels/inch like I've always been taught?

Kubota action set volume 1 has a hollywood intensity that rocks when dialed down a bit....if this is sort of what you are looking for