christian_stahl

<p>I printed a flyer using several photos in it. I printed 5000 a few years ago and was lucky with the print quality. I printed another 5000 now, quality is o.k. but not as clear and detailed as wanted.<br>

Now, I'm a musician and feel a bit a bit helpless in the world of print. What's the secret? Who is the guy I go to who garantees a certain quality? <br>

I guess this is a very general question for something that's very specific for me. I'd be glad to specify but don't know how. Anyone can help?</p>

<p>I use the kit lens with the d40 (very light). So I guess this should work.</p>

<p>I did some research and found the manfrotto 322rc2 to be a recommended head. Can I use it with the slik tripod?<br>

Chris</p>

<p>I own a NikonD40x and a Panasonic NV-GS 300. I'm a musician and use the equipment for promotion. I ordered a Benro tripod Aluminium Travel Angel A-068m8 + BH-00, but found it was only 1,10m high and sent it back. Now ordered a Slik Pro 700DX, but overlooked it has no head. <br>

How do I find out which head to get (I'm in Germany and ordered via Amazon)?<br>

Chris</p>

 

<p>Well, that's a lot more very, very useful input than I dreamt to expect.</p>

<p>David Ralph - "Some portrait books, online training, or classes": do you have a specific favorite? Up to now, I like to go to the local (that is Dresden) art gallery and have a look at baroque portraits.</p>

<p>Paul - "speedlites with shoot-through umbrellas on stands". Well, your example is pretty convincing, so as I wrote bevore, I'll see into that.</p>

<p>And Ian, I <em>very </em>much enjoyed your first entry. I couldn't write that, though, without sounding sarcastic. It seemed so off!!! But, yes, "try and make my subject comfortable" seems to be the key. I worked with two professional photographers years ago, and they just didn't get it right. Then a friend (a manager at AMD) took some shots, and they were quite good, because he made everybody comfortable. Now nice light, wide open aperture - that means a fast lens. An AF lens for the D40 is hard to come by... the background you chose is simply "blurry green". Quite good, but no problem with the gear I chose in my first entry: a d700 with a Nikon 24-70mm f/2.8G ED AF-S (or any other fast lens + a full frame chip, of course). <br /> Ralph Osphiro: I'm not sure about your entry. Andreas Möller (1684-ca.1762) was the first internationally renowned Danish painter, the portrait is of Archduchess Maria Theresa in 1727. <br /> But really, Ians portrait and description comes closest to what I'm looking for. <br /> Josep Molina, yes, that's it. <br /> Steven. Yes. I know.</p>

Skyler, about the SB-800: yes, good point. I will have to get into this soon, I guess.

<p>Ralph, thanks for your input. I find the "artful posing of hands, face, and body" esp. demanding (see my favorite portrait below)</p>

<p>Henry, I did not quite understand you: did you have a queer feeling about ovation guitars while playing one (which would be a first hand judgement)? That would correspond to my feeling about the D40 pics when I look a them - I don't like the feel of the look too much, just as I like the sound, feel and handling of a specific instrument or do not. By the way, it's very, very difficult to find a good instrument. <br>

Or did you have a queer feeling about something you heard about ovations (e.g. the material, the image, etc.)<br>

Thanks of course for underlining my statement, that yes, it's the person behind the camera. But my statement was that, taking that for granted, let's talk about secondary issues, as the size of the chip. <br>

I must have misunderstood you somewhere...</p>

<p> </p><div></div>

<p>First thanks to all of you, that's a lot of input. I take the "it's the person behind the camera" and light issues for granted. I usually put the motiv first, then the light; but some gear apects make a difference, a certain feeling in the stomach. My stomach feels wonderful with analog medium format (if motiv and light are right); I have a somewhat fuzzy feeling with the D40.<br /> Since I hold two university degrees in music, music projects are mostly what I do. So musicians are my motif. A lot of times, skin is a problem, or red noses, etc. Hence my interest in software. <br>

Also pictures without software editing look somehow "bleak". I found two D40 pictures that had very nice colors, they were edited with Picasa 3.0 and paint shop pro photo 12,5.<br>

If I have a long shot, that's fine with video because of the movements. But in photography, the background and faces are too "fuzzy" - not crisp - with the D40. Hence the idea for a bigger chip.<br /> With the D40 I learned to avoid a long shot...</p>

 

<p>Thanks, Lorne. <br>

For lighting so far I use the sun before sundown, pref. in autum. That gives me about 30 min very good light, + I use daylight and a diffuser. I plan to get some lighting (preferably for video use). I don't like flashes (because I can't use them for video).</p>

<p>I have a Nikon D40x with the kit lens, shooting RAW and processing with Capture NX2. I will continue using this set for a while. I am, however, unsatisfied with the general look; I suspect the chip size (I had the same problem with analog photography, medium format was the solution). I started comparing d40/d700 pics from the net, liking the d700 a lot better. I also found that using software seems to make a big difference (Picasa 3.0 and paint shop pro photo 12,50 and of course photoshop).<br>

Getting a d700 with a Nikon 24-70mm f/2.8G ED AF-S will be step 2 (for obvious reasons). Step one will be - practice, o.k.; but might software help (a lot, I mean).<br>

That is the question: will software will help. Portraits are my focus. </p>

<p> </p>

<blockquote>

<p>The question is: how are the images to be used?<br />Brochure, CD cover, flier, poster - internet </p>

</blockquote>

<p>Gary, my answer is: yes. Yes, brochure AND CD cover AND flier AND poster AND internet. 'tis true, I usually have one or the other in mind when I take the picture - but when it turns out well, I end up using it for all of the above. (I admit, a vinyl record cover is something special...) <br>

Do you make a CD Cover different from a press portrait? How?</p>

<blockquote>

<p>Your best bet would be a trip to the book store to locate one of the dozens of portrait how-to's</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Good idea (I remember, I used to love the photo section in book stores when I lived in New Haven, CT, in '89. Always envied you guys for your bookshops, haven't seen anything comparable in Germany, esp. when it comes to photography. Anyways, I'll have a look...</p>

<blockquote>

<p>You can get 5 in 1 reflectors</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Good one, thanks!</p>

<p>I'm in constant need of press photos, and short of money: you guessed it, I'm a musician (http://web.mac.com/stahlchristian/Videos/Barsanti.html). <br>

I posted a question in July 2008 in the <a href="../nikon-camera-forum/?category=Nikon+Lenses+and+Optics">Nikon Lenses and Optics</a>-Forum, concerning portraits. Hoped for an answer as "get this lens, and you're set".<br>

In variations I got three answers: light - composition - practice.<br>

As part of a new marketing strategy, I want to communicate an image, using picture, among other things.<br>

So I've started to experiment with portraits, as shown here: http://gallery.me.com/stahlchristian#100203&view=mosaic&sel=0 (please note that these pictures are not yet processed, they ought to be lighter after that).<br>

There are light issues. <br>

What would you recommend? I thought about a helper with an emergency blanket stretched over a hula hoop, reflecting the sun so the other part of the face is lit. <br>

And composition... I don't have a <em>photo</em> studio. So I used nature as a background. There are also some historical buildings near (see http://gallery.me.com/stahlchristian#100228&view=grid&sel=0).<br>

Please tell me if I should rather use the <a href="http://www.photo.net/beginner-photography-questions-forum/">Beginner Photography Questions</a>-forum. Glad 'bout any advice, Chris</p>

<p>I own a Panasonic NV-GS 300 (SD) (see

). I thought about getting "better equipment" in the future. That's not very specific, I know...<br>

My question: Has anyone any sample of a good Sony or Canon consumer camcorder, and or a semiprofessional camcorder? I read some articles with still, so now I would be interested in some clips.<br>

Thanks for any suggestions.</p>

<p>Roberto, <br>

I use Apple pages (part of iWork) for the booklet and use JPEGs out of iPhoto. <br>

Thanks for the reading links, both of you.<br>

Chris</p>

<p>

 

<p>Hi there,</p>

<p>I made a CD booklet and submitted it to an internet print service as a pdf. I was told the document had to be changed from RGB to CMYK 8for ten bucks). Ok.<br>

The printout turned out to be very different from the proof print I had made at a local print shop.<br>

Later I was told that this was due to my not doing the color management myself. I would need to work in a specific color space that is attached to the pdf.<br>

Does anyone know how I could solve this problem WITHOUT changing my profession (I will stay a musician and not become anything else, nor will I spend thousands of bucks on software).<br>

I work with OS X 5.5 and pages. Any ideas or hints that could help?<br>

Thanks, Chris</p>

 

</p>

 

<p>I now started participating in the critique forum, as suggested. I cannot make intelligent comments, so I just post non-intellegent comments as that's all I can offer. But I participate - so there, Fred!</p>

<p>"Just thought I would share a bit of experience from which may spring new ideas"<br>

Which you did. A wide shot quite far away will be fine with playback. I'd be interested in the outcome of the walk-around - the optical stabilzer is supposed to be quite good with the 300. I hadn't thought about anything but tripod work, no wanting to look too unprofessional (of course someone else has to do the walk-around, sorry for stating that); but maybe that's an option.<br>

I'm more concerned with the flute player, but I guess it's fine for extreme long shots. <br>

"On some level you can find people who crap on just about anything."<br>

If that's the problem I'd be glad to use FCE. But I haven't been so happy with Apple in some respects. I tested Aperture and couldn't use it, and am very happy with a iPhoto/Nikon NX 2. <br>

Thanks to both of you!<br>

 

 

</p>

<p>Michael, thanks for the input. <br>

I can't reframe with iMovie06, but good point - I'll try that with ... I guess FCE. <br>

I had though about "lipsync equivalent". Early Music is really very, very unplugeed (there are even gut-coloured strings out so you can hide the fact you don't play gut in live performances). I should give it a try, but I'm afraid it won't work here... not sure. <br>

I guess it would be better to have several takes with multiple cameras all set up at different positions, use the best take and "flip" between the diffent videos of the take - requiring several cameras...<br>

Josh, thanks for your comment. Is there anything else to say about FCE except that it's "fine" - I know some people don't think so, then again, I don't know what goals they have.<br>

Well, thanks anyway.</p>

<p>I'm a musician (Early Music) and need to make a few documentations over the next few years. I have a DV Camera (Panasonic NV-GS 300), professional audio equipment, and an iMac 20-inch. <br>

I tryed iMovie06, liked it very much, but have several problems:<br>

- I can't integrate pictures/slideshows, because of the image quality (the get converted to DV and look very fuzzy)<br>

- There's only one video track, so cuts are a litte difficult (transitions are very tedious because footage gets used up, and audio sync is difficult to maintain)<br>

I had heared FCE 3,5 was the solution. Then up came FCE 4 and reactions are split.<br>

Here's an experiment as an example, please note the audio is from the cameras mic: http://web.mac.com/stahlchristian/Videos/Luckau.html</p>

<p>So, suggestions?</p>

 

<blockquote>

<p>"By the way, you've participated in the site, although rarely, since January of last year and your workspace page has no record of your ever having given a critique. Perhaps that could be a place to start."</p></blockquote>

<p>Fred, you got me! OK, I'll try to improve...<br>

Then again, it was only a casual question about the nature of the forum. So maybe I won't...</p>

<p>Thanks for the offer, Mark - I'll remember it!</p>

<blockquote></blockquote>

<p>...about photo critique: I - as a musician, always in need of good photos - thought I'd post a photo once in a while at the photo critique forum. I read one critique-thread in the past and found that very helpful. Now, before posting I looked over the forum and found masses of professional photos (very inhibiting!), all very recent, and no comments - none! <br>

What am I missing here... is there another secret forum where I can post none-perfect in-need-of-help photos?<br>

Happy new year, by the way!</p>

From what I know by now the 24'' screen is different from the 20'' technically.

I could handle the latest 17'' G5 screen quite well, so I might get used to my 20'' screen for my purposes (although it seems

to be completely unacceptable for a pro!) - if not, what monitor well under 1000€ would you recommend?

I used to have an iMac G5 and I loved it. I broke. All by itself. That's very sad...

 

I got a new iMac, but am confused by the monitor. I can live with the glossy monitor, although I loved the matte one ...

BUT

the colors look faded. When I tilt it so that I look a bit from below colors get stronger.

Come on...

What do others think about it? I'm very unsure about workinb with such a monitor

What would be a good choice for an external monitor?

 

Thanks for any hints, Chris

Wow, thanks for all your answers!

(I hoped you'd just tell me what lens to buy and that's it ;-)

I really appreciate all your input. Posing/composition + light seem to be no.1

The fuzzyness refers to the originals (which can be downloaded)

Also there's a sound file here:

http://web.mac.com/stahlchristian/Duo_La_Vigna/Klangbeispiele/Klangbeispiele_files/Allegro.mp3