lorne_hampel1

<p>does anyone know how it would compare to the Sigma flashes (ef530 super) ? I have used these for quite a while but with the more rigorous use I have been putting them through lately, they ( the sigmas) are falling apart. for example, I managed to drop both a 420ex and a sigma 500 super. The canon was fine and the sigma broke into pieces.</p>

<p>I am lookin g for a cheaper alternative than 430ex and 580ex but I am concerned about durability.</p>

<p>I tend to lean towards "better" lenses rather a "better" camera. As you have probably noticed, camera bodies become obsolete where lenses tend to retain their value. Your future position would be better with the 7D combo while not sacrificing much for the current situation. </p>

<p>expensive but I love my 24-105 F4 L</p>

<p>warning * I tend to be blunt *<br>

nice camera with a somewhat premium price point. two lens suggestions that are pretty crappy. got both as part of packages tried them and sold both immediately . I like the 17-55 suggestion but I would also suggest 24-105 IS L. much better lens (if not as wide) if you intend to take it out of the box and subject it to dirty things like air. from my experience, the best lens made for enduring the elements. I find my lenses far more susceptible to the elements than my bodies. I almost never have to clean my sensor. I have twice had to have my 10-22 lens sent to Canon for internal cleaning.<br>

remember, the camera is just a light tight box with a few options. almost any APS-C camera will take an technically excellent photo with premium glass. your photos with a 550D and premium glass would almost certainly be technically superior to a 7d with either of the lenses you suggest. <br>

on the other hand, even a 1D Mk IV would not perform very well with your lens suggestions if it could use them (for quality and other reasons)</p>

 

<p>Here is a link. You can even select by portrait, interesting photo, etc.</p>

<p>http://www.flickr.com/cameras/canon/eos_7d/</p>

<p> </p>

<p>I am pretty sure you can select by camera on Flickr. Maybe even by lens as well. That should give you a couple of hundred thousand choices :-)</p>

<p>I have this lens as well. It is a Canon copy and works well for me. </p>

<p>I have heard that it some copies do have an infinity focus issue. I would try manual focus a couple of times and compare.</p>

<p>Lorne</p>

<p>Aren't the price increases actually a decrease in value of the dollar?</p>

<p>They seem to have an unknown reserve. May not be such a good deal.</p>

<p>Did you remove and replace the battery?</p>

<p>First shot looks not so much blurry as less saturated. Also, in the doorway, it is obvious that the curves have been altered (mid tones) so that the inside is visible. There is a lot more than sharpening going on here.<br>

Post processing always helps.</p>

<p>You do not need megapixels for web use but few agents use your photos just for web listings. They have brochures and other promotional materials.<br>

My first suggestion would be to join PFRE. This is a great source of information for people in our business. The following link will tell you what some of the best people are using and it varies considerably.<br>

http://www.flickr.com/groups/photographyforrealestate/discuss/72157615727403622/?search=what+camera+do+you+use<br>

I use the sigma 10-20 lens on a cropped body and get excellent results.</p>

 

<p>Any more details available on the Pulsar unit? Model?</p>

<p>I shoot RAW with either AWB or custom. For my Real Estate Photoshoots I find custom shortens my workflow. ZAs I understand it, AWB is very poor for EOS in incandescent lighting.</p>

<p>Thanks! I never thought of that. I had been thinking about body armor for protection but this is an even better reason to buy it!</p>

<p>Shill or no shill, this is valueable information to some. Thanks!</p>

<p>I keep a zip lock bag in my car just in case this happens. I put the camera inside the plastic bag removing as much air as possible before I bring it into the house. I have never had a serious problem when I have done this.</p>

<p>I agree with Scott.  This is a kind of general fear mongering that is intended to justify Canon's exorbitant prices.  It reminds me of a transmission shop person telling me that if I didn't replace my perfectly working transmission immediately, I would certainly die in a fire crash on the freeway.<br>

I have used knock off (not claiming to be Canon genuine) batteries for years in all of my Canon   digital cameras.  The only difference that I can tell is that the knock offs tend to have better life at 1/4 ot 1/3 of the cost.<br>

Also, I am not sure but when Canon talks about battery warranties, it is possible that they are LIMITED warranties?  If so, then damage to any camera would not be covered.<br>

Lorne</p>

<p> </p>

To add more confusion, the DPReview of the 50D is not too good. Not as good as the 40D in general. I agree that at $1500, the 1DS is overpriced.

One small point. If you are using high ISO (800 or greater) make sure not to underexpose. The results cannot be reasonably corrected.

I have exactly the same combination. It should work flawlessly if (a) 580 is set to master and (b) 420 is set to slave and © they are on the same channel and (d) the line of sight is uninterrupted. Keep in mind that these will not work over long distances, around corners, and sometimes the slave cannot be behind the camera.

Looks like I did create a bit of confusion. let's see if I can straighten it out.

 

An IS lens is not "faster" than its largest aperture. It will allow you to shake the camera a bit and thereby simulate a faster lens by allowing you to use a slower shutter. As Matthias points out this only works for static subjects since a slower shutter will allow for more motion blur.

 

I never count on static subjects in any of my calculations of lens speed requirement. Way too risky especially in the wedding business. I need to know I can freeze the action adequately to obtain professional results. Hence to me the difference between 4 and 2.8 is ALWAYS 1 stop irrespective of IS.

 

To be honest, after many years of practising to minimize camera shake and the frequent use of my monopod, I am more concerned about my subject moving. I find that single blurry face or hand in the photo to be less than adequate.in a professional shoot.

Here is a slight spin on all of this.

 

Is 2.8 fast enough? Granted it is one stop faster than the 4IS but finding that elusive light where one stop will make all the difference is rare. I generally find that churches are lighted or dead dark. Lighted, 4 will do. Black and 2.8 will not help. I have a 4 is L and two 1.4 primes. If it is dark. I suffer with using the primes to get leverage of 3 stops over the 4 and 2 stops over the 2.8.

 

Hopefully I have not added to the confusion.

I don't recommend the 420ex unless you never plan to shoot manual flash. It cannot be a master and can only be a slave in FULL or TTL modes.

 

I have a Sigma EF-500 DG SUPER that provides excellent functionality for the price. Problem is people love them and very few seem to his the second hand market. I can assure you mine never will. It will die in my hands.

 

If you buy Sigma, make sure the model has SUPER not ST in the name. Generally but not always, the super models have full TTL functionality.

I agree with Steve. Although I don't think anyone yet knows how long the current digital camera bodies will last (they are still relatively new in the market place), you will learn and become used to the system you first buy. If Sony doesn't end up trying to compete with Nikon/Canon (remember they are FAR ahead) , the next lens you may want/need may only come from one of them. You would then need a new body and to relearn all the controls.