michael_white4

<p>I haven't used my OM-2n in about one year, it was stored without batteries.<br>

Today I put 2 brand new Energizer 357 silver oxide batteries in and tested the<br>

meter...shutter... etc for about 10 minutes, just playing around with a few different<br>

lenses I have. I didn't have any film in the camera at the time.</p>

<p>I noticed when I pressed the battery test the red LED was blinking.<br>

Hmm, I recall this means the batteries are low. Popped the batteries out and measured<br>

with my digital multimeter..... 1.42 Volts. After letting the batteries sit for a few hours<br>

the voltage comes back up to 1.59. Could this mean there's a high current drain<br>

problem in the camera ? Is there some common component that would cause this<br>

problem ? </p>

<p>Thanks for the info ! I should have used the term 'effective focal length' change,<br>

because I always refer to 50mm as 1x .......but this explanation does help a lot.</p>

<p>I'm leaning towards getting the Olympus E-PL1 but would like to explore other options<br>

with an optical viewfinder. Any suggestions ? </p>

<p>I looked at a few full frame sensor SLR's but they are way out of my price<br>

range.</p>

<p>I want to use my older Olympus Zuiko lenses from my OM/2<br>

on a digital camera and am currently investigating what to<br>

buy. I've looked at the Olympus E-PL1 and it looks very<br>

nice , small and light just like the OM/2. </p>

<p>I've read that using the older Zuiko lenses doesn't preserve<br>

the original focal length of the lenses. From what I hear<br>

its about a 2:1 ... a 50mm Zuiko will be like a 100mm on the E-PL1.</p>

<p>Is this focal length change specific to 4/3 digital cameras ? Or<br>

would this also be the case when using the Zuiko lenses on other<br>

digital cameras or SLR's like the Canon Rebel XS etc. ? </p>

<p>I replaced the prism in my OM-2 with the prism from a parts OM-10.<br /> OM-10's can be picked up much cheaper from ebay.<br /> The OM-10 prisms did not have foam applied and as far as I know<br /> its the same exact part.</p>

Finally found on ebay last week.... Eyecup 2 (-2) and a mint Eyecup 1 with the Olympus -2

diopter lens in mint condition. I'm a happy camper. Both were listed within about

a week of each other....and from the time I made this original post back in February til then

there were none listed.

If you don't have one of those tools made especially for holding the OM rewind shaft....

The safest way I found is to cut a short length of Tygon tubing (the clear plastic kind)

that will fit around the rewind shaft (after slitting the tubing) between the camera

body and the knob. It helps to clean the shaft with alcohol/Q-tip to assure a better

grip. Then grip this tightly with some narrow pliers that will fit in that gap, and try unscrewing

the rewind knob. Just be careful not to scratch the camera with the pliers, you could

probably stick some pieces of electrical tape on the pliers to make sure they don't scratch

anything. I discovered this method too late after breaking one of the forks on one of my

cameras :-(

I have a Fujica EBC 1.8/55 lens . The focus ring is extremely stiff on this lens.

I read the post about using a couple drops of oil to loosen the old grease,

but looking at the lens not sure where to apply the oil. Any tips on this

would be appreciated.

My favorite all around lens is the 35mm/2.8. I take mostly scenic shots and this

lens gives me a nice moderate wide angle. Its good for group shots too.

 

I have the 28mm/3.5 35mm/2.8 135mm/2.8 all three I bought with my OM-2

in 1979 (didn't buy a normal lens at that time)

 

Also have 50mm/1.8 50mm/1.4 75-150 zoom I bought recently from eBay.

I'm hoping maybe John or someone else here can give me some pointers about this

problem.

 

I recently acquired an OM-2S with working electronics but unfortunately the camera

has a mechanical problem. I noticed that adjusting the aperture setting on the lens

had no effect on the camera meter reading. On the back of the lens is a lever

that engages a ring in the lens opening. On my other OMs this ring is under

spring tension so when the lens is removed it always sits at about the 9 o'clock

position. On this OM-2S there is no tension on the ring. I removed the shutter

speed ring and see that the aperture ring has a cord attached, which must be

attached to a spring somewhere which I think is the cause of the problem.

Because the cord doesn't retract under spring tension, the cord has damaged the

small spring finger contacts on the back of the ring. I think I first need to

determine

why the cord doesn't retract, and then repair the contact fingers on the back of

the ring.

I looked in the OM-2S exploded view PDF, but its not obvious how to access the

section

of the camera where the spring is located.

 

From what I've seen so far, the quality of the OM-2S is certainly a notch (or

two) below

the OM-1 and OM-2 . Still that spot meter capability sounds like a nice plus.

But I'd probably be better off just buying a good spotmeter and using my OM-1 :-)

Forgot to mention, I also have an eyecup 1 and plan to get a

dioptric correction lens for it. I need a -1.5 or -2.0 .

Been looking around , eBay etc, but haven't found one yet.

 

I read that the value of the Olympus correction lens already takes

into account the -0.5 correction built into the camera. So a lens

labeled -2.0 is actually -1.5 + -0.5 = -2.0

I wear progressive bifocals and was told by my optician that the

lenses have a non-glare AND scratch resistant coating. The scratch resistant coating is warranted for three years. I was told that if any scratches 'appear' in the lenses before three years they will replace the lenses.

I recently purchased a very clean OM-1 (non-MD) which appears to have

received an impact to the plastic frame surrounding the eyepiece

at some point in its life. Hard to imagine how this could have

happened but its the only thing I can think of that would cause this.

 

The plastic frame surrounding the eyepiece isn't cracked, it just

has a slight scuff. The eyepiece appears to be made from two layers

of glass, and it looks like there is a slight separation between the

layers resulting in kind of a shadow effect in the viewfinder.

Its not very obvious when looking directly through the viewfinder

but still annoying. Question : is it possible to replace the eyepiece

glass without replacing the entire frame ? I found the service manual

for the OM-1 and it shows the eyepiece glass as a separate part.

Is the glass press fit into the frame ?

 

I'm planning to replace the foam damaged prism with one from a parts

OM-10 I have, and wondering if the eyepiece could be transplanted also.

Part numbers are different but they do look similar. If its not easily

removable I'll probably just live with it.

I've taken lots of photos with an OM-2 attached to my Celestron C-8 telescope using a T ring. At prime focus its F/8 2000 mm = 40X. Picture quality is good but not as sharp as you'd get from a standard telephoto lens. I think there is some loss of image quality due to the mirrors.

 

This setup works great for nature photography as the camera is aperture priority and the metering selects the shutter speed. I've even taken shots of the moon which came out great with auto exposure.

My 17 year old daughter recently wrote a paper for one of her

high school classes entitled "Digital vs Film Photography".

We have a digital camera, that she seldom uses, but she proudly

carries her Canon AE-1 with 35-70 zoom everywhere she goes.

I have a couple of OM's , but she prefers the Canon with the zoom.

 

I'm certain others may see us together and are thinking

her dad is too cheap to buy her a digital camera :-)

Thanks John ! Fortunately the washer was still on the shaft.

That lever was pretty tight, but I was able to get it wound

enough to reattach the self timer lever.

Just wanted to add that looking into the hole where the self timer lever attaches, there is a small lever sitting at about the 2 o'clock position

which I assume must be rotated counter-clockwise to allow the self timer lever to engage. I tried 'gently' moving that and it doesn't budge.

Is there some trick of settings that need to made on the camera to allow that lever to be moved?

Very nice picture, some photographers buy filters to produce special

effects like that :-)

 

My first thought would be a possible light leak but the pattern

doesn't seem to indicate that. Are the light seals on the camera

back in good condition ? Do you have another lens you could take

some test shots with ? If you remove the lens and look through

does the glass look clear ?

Actually I was thinking of this awhile back. Wouldn't it

be great to have a digital OM-1 , that looks and feels

(yes, I like the weight) exactly like the old classic,

but stores the pictures in digital format. And even

better accepts all of the original OM Zuiko lenses.

I have an OM-2n which has a missing self-timer lever.

I have a replacement lever, but can't figure out how to

reattach this. I found removal instructions on a web site

which mentions that the lever should have been in the 9 o'clock

position before it was removed, but in this case I don't think

that will help. Is it possible to reattach this ? Not a big

deal as I never actually use the self timer, but more of a cosmetic

issue. Thanks.

Were you pressing the small button, and holding while turning

the shutter speed to B ? Looking at the camera from the front, its on the RIGHT side, right below the lens, and has a red arrow.

Thanks to John I was able to get this OM-2N working again !

John sent me the replacement part , an entire assembly that

I was able to drop in without much disassembly. It took me

awhile to figure out how to install it... but I finally did,

and it's working !

 

Thanks again John !

Thanks for all the info and advice ! I have an upcoming

eye appt in a couple weeks so I'll talk to the optician and

see if he can either cut something for me or provide me with

a lens that I can cut myself. I have one of those mini scroll

saws which would probably handle this.

What are the current options for diopter correction on an OM-2

camera ? I find it impossible to compose through the viewfinder

wearing my glasses. If I take my glasses off all is a blur :-)

 

Years ago when I used my OM-2 a lot I wore contacts but now am

forced to wear glasses. I'm nearsighted and my glasses are a

-2 correction. I have an Eyecup 1 with the circular opening,

so I'm thinking I just need the right lens to add in the eyecup.

Do I just buy a -2 lens to fit the eyecup or should I try different

ones to determine the correct value.

I recently picked up a clean Olympus 35EC camera from eBay cheap.

Put 2 LR44 in the + chamber, encircled with a cardboard

shim to keep them in place, and added the aluminum foil

to the other chamber. When I press the shutter button slightly

I see a yellow light at the top left of finder. Pressing the

button completely causes the shutter to open. The shutter

speed doesnt seem to vary (at least that I can detect) based on light.

The aperture does vary, if I point at a bright light source, it stops way down, dark areas it opens more. All of this testing done with the back opening while looking through the lens. I guess the next real test is to run a roll of film through. First need to replace the light seals as they are shot.

Thanks again for the advice and offer John, I've sent you an email about this.