rich_frank

There are several photos of Linda, with a Leica in hand. Rich

I'd like to recommend the Linda McCartney photo exhibit of rock &

rollers (Hendrix, Jefferson Airplane; etc.), it will be there until

August. I thought it was spectacular and appears to be made with

Leica gear. I never realized how talented she was - as good as Gene

Smith!!?? The exhibit is at the Allentown Fine Art Museum (PA, $10

admission).

The National Zoo in Washington, D.C,. Many "wild" woodies swim in the duck pond with the banded ducks.

Shippensburg, Pennsylvania - amateur - my dental practice limits the time I have available to shoot, but I'm having more fun than I deserve with my Leica.

Scala is easy to scan although I often benefit from customizing the Gamma (in the Nikon software) to match the contrast level of the image. I think slides scan easier than negatives, but I have to be careful that I don't "block up" the shadows with an increase in contrast in PhotoShop. Tmax 100 scans well, but is much slower to scan than slide film. I'm just scanning my 1st roll of Delta 400, and I'm finding that I must use a little of the GEM in the Nikon scanning software.

nikon 4000

Wife & son reunion, 35 f.14 Asph

Mark - My deepest sympathies. He is beautiful. May God Bless.

I've built my Leica system from Photonetter's and forum members. I bought a Noctilux from Jeffrey Milarski, a 75 Lux from Kent Phelan, a 90 AA from Jack Flesher, and my M6ttl from GR Geoffrion. All of these tranactions were very easy. All of the equipment was in the described "as new" condition and was delivered without delay - making the purchases a pleasure and the savings as compared to buying from a dealer were significant. I have had nothing but the highest level satisfaction dealing with the above - it seems that the integrtiy of the forum members is widespread. I know that I will hunt for my next purchase here (but that will be in the distant future). It's a good feeling to experience such a high standard of integrity. Thanks to all.

Ray - My experience with the Nikon 4000 has been good. When everything falls into place (which at times is quite a challenge) the results when output to my color Epson 1280 or Piezography 1280 are as nice as I've seen. For web display, as previously mentioned - many lower cost units should work OK. If your output is an inkjet print the 2900 vs. 4000 dpi decision becomes more difficult. I have never worked on a difficult negative with a 2900 dpi scanner, but I often feel that I am working my 4000 to it's maximum as I try to find shadow detail, etc. in the scan. Canon has given Nikon some good competition at a lower price in the 4000 dpi arena.

This type of photograph is my favorite - a cherished family member with a background that enhances our memory of the person. The desk, newspapers, & old photo probably mean alot to you.<div></div>

Travis - these are wonderful pictures - I guess they'll hang on your walls. I see you've found interesting subjects!! Very nice!!

Chris - I chipped my 800 f5.6 AIS lens and matrix metering with my F5 works well, although I only use the matrix metering mode about 50% of the time. I purchased an older AIS lens with the reasoning that if I didn't want to keep the lens, my loss on resale would be less. I like the lens and have no plans to upgrade to a more expensive autofocus lens. I would not hesitate to purchase a 600 f4 AFI, you would have your matrix metering and autfocus, although a bit slower AF than with the AFS lenses.

I can't believe hoe big it is!

Scott Eaton - Your timer bell just went off - go back to the darkroom and do not return until your attitude changes. I long for the return of the time when you said "I quit - no more posts."

I've used the Nikon 4000 for at least a thousand scans with very good results with E6 slides, color & B&W negatives. It handles high contrast situations well and resolves good shadow detail. The Nikon software can rock Windows stability, it almost always crashes Windows ME upon shutdown, but that is an easy workaround. I think there is a rebate on the 4000. I personally would avoid a grey market scanner, as with most electronics, a problem would likely render it as an expensive boat anchor without Nikon factory repair capability.

Marc Williams - Thanks for the workflow suggestions. Now I can understand the reasoning as to why my 13x19's look much better than my 5x7's.

E100 VS and Velvia both excel in shade and low light conditions. I rate Velvia at 50 and just add 1/3 stop exposure when the light is low. Of course the colors are vivid and saturated. Velvia also pushes to 100 ISO very nicely (in fact I usually rated it at 100 for animal photgraphy in low light and overcast conditions). The colors of each start to get really exaggerated in my opinion in bright sunlight. Conversely the colors of Velvia and VHS really "pop" with a 1/3 to 2/3 stop underexposure. This underexposure works nicely with an isolated medium to light colored subject and an open aperture with the resultant washed (blurred) background. I think that rating Velvia at 40 would help diminish the color exaggeration a bit in bright sunshine.

Provia has a blue cast in low light(which a 81B filter helps with), but it is my favorite bright sunlight film. It really excels in bright sunlight. Have a great trip and post some pics !!

I've misplaced my owners manual for my .85 M6 ttl (talk about the

makings of a bad day!), and I just bought a nice used 75 lux. Are

the framelines the inner set (with the corners) or the wider set?

Also should I assume that the metering pattern will include a circle

that extends about 50% of the way between the focus patch and the

frameline? Thanks for any help on this basic question.

I agree with Ilkka - my LS 4000 does well with Scala

I just purchased the RRS from a list member - it works well. I leave mine on my camera, as it keeps the lens off of the horizontal surface when I set the camera down.

She often makes my lunch - 82 years young & a real sweetheart.<div></div>

I always shoot at the meter for a 1 stop push, with the exception of Velvia - which I always add 1/3 stop exposure in low light situations (which would like rating it at ISO 80 (instead of 100). With a 2 stop push of Provia, I'll rate the speed at 320 and I'll tell the lab to do a 2 stop push. Most rolls of Velvia I use are rate at ISO 100.

Thanks for all the advice. I looked up serendipitous, I'm finding out how different (ie difficult) street shooting is - so I'm off to a roaring start - but I'll probably never master spelling and grammar.

Stefan I've pushed, for one stop, Fuji Provia, Velvia, and Astia slide films with good results. Pushing a film generally increases the grain and contrast of the film. Color shifts are minimal with a one stop push but become more prominent with a two stop or greater push. Velvia with a one stop push is my standard wildlife film when I can avoid bright sunlight. Agfa RSX II also pushes well (rated at 250 ISO) with my camera. Many threads on this site report that the 400 slide film is superior to the 100 pushed two stops. Rich