dennis_gardner

<p>Cyndy,<br>

Connect the camera and lens to Olympus Master. If it allows you to update the lens, see if that fixes the focus problem.</p>

<p>Dennis</p>

<p>Charles,</p>

<p>When I switched from film to digital, I was also concerned with things such as date/time stamps. I sure did like them for albums.</p>

<p>However, digital is a very different medium. I rarely make prints and almost always view my photos on my computer. The date and time is listed in "my computer" or "explorer "on a windows based machine if you have "date modified" chosen as one of the details (and as long as you don't modify the original photo and resave it under the same file name). Viola, no need to have it on the photo itself.</p>

<p>Dennis</p>

<p>How does one find how many pictures an E-510 body has taken? Is the body limited to a fixed number of shutter releases? If so, what is the maximum number? Do other cameras (Oly/Canon/Nikon...) have these limitations? Thanks for your help.</p>

<p>Dennis</p>

<p>James,</p>

<p>Turning the camera off and on shouldn't change any settings from the last time the camera was on. If your camera is doing that something is definately wrong. Contacting Olympus tech support would be a good idea.</p>

<p>Something else I would suggest you do is establish a "custom reset setting" as reset1 or reset2 after you made all your personal changes (menu1, first page). Then turn the camera off and back on and see if the reset will get back your custom settings. If that works it would be a work around until you can find out what the problem is.</p>

<p>Dennis</p>

<p>If you haven't found the manual yet, here's the olympus site for manuals:<br>

<a href="http://www.olympus.co.jp/en/support/imsg/digicamera/download/manual/">http://www.olympus.co.jp/en/support/imsg/digicamera/download/manual/</a></p>

<p>I don't think the auto popup has anything to do with the flash signal to either the hot shoe or the internal flash. All it does is open the flash when the camera needs the flash for proper exposure. As you mentioned, the 50R works with the internal down so the hot shoe is getting a signal.</p>

<p>Dennis</p>

<p>Andy,</p>

<p>Olympus does make a doubler. It's called a teleconverter. It will retain all auto features of any other Zuiko digital lens. Unfortunately it's more expensive than the 70-300mm. It also slows down any lens used with it so it's best used in brighter light conditions. See it here: <a href="http://www.olympusamerica.com/cpg_section/cpg_digital_slr.asp?section=lens">http://www.olympusamerica.com/cpg_section/cpg_digital_slr.asp?section=lens</a></p>

<p>I'm guessing you're problem is either dark or blurred pictures? In low light situations, one needs maximum aperature and long shutter speeds for proper exposure. Since one is limited regarding aperature by the lens used, shutter speed becomes the critical factor. Some people can hold a camera still for 1/2 second or longer... I can't. If the shutter speed is too long your best bet is either a tripod or external flash. With the tripod, your subject will have to also be still for the duration of the shutter speed otherwise you'll see subject motion in the picture. Therefore, since you don't care for the internal flash, I think an external flash is your best solution.</p>

<p>Good luck,<br>

Dennis</p>

<p>George,</p>

<p>I have a 36R with my E510. It is a very capable flash. Unfortunately, the E510, and your E410, aren't capable to control the flash as a remote. The "R" flashes can only be used as slaves with these cameras. If you don't need a slave flash you can save some money by buying the non "R" FL-36.</p>

<p>Dennis</p>

<p>Hi Molly,</p>

<p>A 25mm lens would be good for taking pictures of individuals or couples but it's not really wide enough for group shots, unless the group is 50 feet away. IMO, it wouldn't do well indoors at a house party. A focal length of 18mm or wider is what's needed for indoor group shots.</p>

<p>Dennis</p>

<p>Ben,</p>

<p>I'm not sure of the high speed sync, but I believe the 50R and 36R only work with the E3 and maybe the E620 for remote features. With all other E cameras they will only function as a slave - and an expensive one at that.</p>

<p>Dennis</p>

<p>If Windows is your operating system, try right clicking on the pictures folder and choose Properties at the bottom of the list. In the Attributes section towards the bottom of the dialog box that opens, see if the read only box is checked. If so, uncheck it and see if that was the problem.</p>

<p>Dennis</p>

<p>Try this site.</p>

<p><a href="http://www.olympus.co.jp/en/support/imsg/digicamera/download/manual/">http://www.olympus.co.jp/en/support/imsg/digicamera/download/manual/</a></p>

<p>Hi Mary,</p>

<p>The big island in May should hold lots of good picture taking opportunities. I read your earlier question concerning the 18-180mm lens. In that post it appeared you bought your e510 with both kit lenses? If so, and if you only want to take one lens, I would take the 40-150mm kit lens and here's why. At 150mm you should be able to capture birds in flight and get fairly close. If not close enough then you can crop them when you get home (or there if you take a computer) to get just the right image. Concerning landscapes, with stitching software readily available, one can take great landscapes with just about any lens - 40mm would be fine, just take a few more shots. Here is the free software I use - it's really easy! I typically take 6-12 frames of a landscape and stitch them all together with Autostitch when I get home. After stitching, I use Olympus Master to crop them to get a full image. The only thing to remember when taking the original pics is to get some overlap between all the pics so the software can see the similarities between images. If you think this may be a good solution for you, download Autostitch, mount your 40-150 lens and take some landscapes, stitch and crop to see if you're comfortable with it before your trip. BTW, have a great time on your trip.</p>

<p>Dennis</p>

<p><a href="http://www.cs.ubc.ca/~mbrown/autostitch/autostitch.html">http://www.cs.ubc.ca/~mbrown/autostitch/autostitch.html</a></p>

<div></div>

By "life size" I assume you mean that the perspective of the lens mirrors what your eye sees. For 35mm, a 50mm lens is "normal", so for 4/3rds a normal lens would be 25mm. Set your 14-42mm lens on 25mm and see if that's what you're looking for.

Dennis

Hi Jeannie,

I don't know of any way to adjust the number of strobe flashes before shutter release in red eye reduction mode. A better way to reduce red eye, IMO, is using an off camera flash rather than the pop up.

Good luck, Dennis

James,

As with most (all) Oly cameras, you must use an Olympus xD card to make panoramas with the camera. Here's a

link to the SP350 manual. Pano shooting starts on page 73.

http://www.olympus.co.jp/en/support/imsg/digicamera/download/manual/zoom/man_sp350_e.pdf

There are also lots of applications that can stitch pics together to make panos and these are much more versatile

than doing it in the camera. The following one is free and works quite well.

http://www.cs.ubc.ca/~mbrown/autostitch/autostitch.html

Dennis

Peter & Tom,

I'm curious as to why you reformat your card everytime you transfer your pictures?