mikhail_arkhipov1

Wait, I have several sharp 16x20 made from 35mm Velvia. And I am a sharpness freak. I ca see grain from a feet or so. 16x16 made with MF Rollei are, of course, much better. I would expect 4x5 go virtually grainless up to 30x40 at least...

I've decided on Arca over Ebony b/c I liked geared controls (including geared Orbix) and I wanted camera that can accept 35mm Rodenstock lens. Since I wanted 2x3 camera, Arca's binocular reflex viewer was another item that steered me towards AS.

I fold it completely, fold the rail in half, leaving lens, rollfilm back and tripod clamp in place. Then I put it in my Lowepro Trekker (upper part). Using adjustable dividers I organized a special L-shaped compartment for the 6x9 reflex viewer. In the lower part I store 5 more lenses with cable releases permanently attached and an exposure meter.

Allstate still insures my photo equipment as part of my homeowner insurance. They never asked any questions about am I pro or not and what kind of photography do I do. Coverage includes theft and damage. Last year I dropped MF camera and Allstate paid $900 for repairs.

Arca-Swiss is great in the field. Very quick to setup. I own 6x9 F-line Compact with collapsible monorail. I store it in the backpack right with the lens - fully collapsed bellows and collapsed monorail.

Short answer: No. When you scan from print, 300-600 dpi is pretty much maximum information you can extract. There is no point is scanning at 3200: amount of information will be the same as at 600 dpi. You can't enlarge images this way. You really have to scan the negative.

Try two-element high quality diopters from Canon (250D) or Nikon.

They are more expensive, but so much better than single element

cheapos from Tiffen.

You may also try to get 2-element diopters from Canon (250D) or Nikon

for 58mm or 52mm and get 49-58mm step-up ring for the Sironar. Two

element diopters are very good. I have been using them on 35mm and

just began using them with exactly the same setup like you have

(except my camera is Arca-Swiss 69F)

Try this <a

href="http://www.scientificsonline.com/Products/DisplayProduct.cfm?

productid=739">scale</a>

Thanks to everybody for information and I appreciate that you like my

pictures. It looks like I need to get old Xenotar or Planar mounted

in shutter and remove some glass... I didn't do it myself for the MF

camera (it is actually Kiev-60 that I bought ready with the lens

modified by a gentleman in Minsk, Belarus). I am rather clumsy, but

I'll give it a shot :)

I've seen pictures of abandoned mining towns in Namibia - THAT's

where I'd love to go! When exactly do you go and what kind of scenery

you would like to photograph?

I have a custom-modified lens for MF camera which is essentially a normal lens with a fixed f8 diaphragm all elements but one removed. It takes soft, uncorrected pictures like these

 

<a href="http://www.arkhipov.com/samples/Gallery4/imagepages/image3.htm">Picture 1</a><br>

<a href="http://www.arkhipov.com/samples/Gallery4/imagepages/image2.htm">Picture 2</a>

 

Which old/classic lens will make similar pictures? I also own soft focus lens, but SF gives different effect.

 

Thanks!

To those who are for the drilling: now, what happens AFTER you

finally burn out the Alaskan oil? Plead to somebody who still has oil

supplies (like Russia) to sell it at a resonable price? And what you

are gonna do if they won't be "reasonable"? Declare war on them? You

actually have to decide this right now. There is not much oil left on

this planet.

I am seeking opinions on Arca Swiss 6x9 FC vs. Linhof Techikardan 23S. My interests are wide-angle field photography (so the camera must accept 35mm lens) and macro. In macro I am interested in magnification more than in depth-of field (I actually shot macro mostly wide open). I also would like to have full movements, including rear tilt. Weight is second priority since I don't do long hikes: couple of miles tops. I am not very interested in 4x5 film, 6x9 is fine for my work. I also considered Ebony, but it seems that interesting models are expensier than AS or Linhof. From Ebonys I considered 45S and SV45Ti - as far as I understand, I don't need WA bellows wih Ebony, right? Thank you for your replies.

Actually, I've recently purchased SL66E and I currently have 50, 80 and 120mm lens. When I rotate the diaphragm ring on 50 and 80mm lens (when the lens is mounted on the camera), I see that meter reacts by lighting different LEDs, but the diaphragm blades stay open. When I remove lens from the camera, diaphragm opens and closes when I rotate the ring. 120mm lens is different - the diaphragm always responds to the movement of the ring, no matter if lens is mounted on the camera or not. That's what confuses me.

Rollei SL66 and SL66E lenses - what is the difference? Automatic

diaphragm or something else? What would and would not work when SL66

lens is mounted on SL66E? How do I tell if lens is for SL66E? I've

heard SL66 lenses can be modified - how much does it usually cost and

how long does it take?

 

Thanks!

Which type of battery SL66E uses? Thanks!