pat_kearns1

I've owned a Tachihara 4x5 for about 12 years and have enjoyed shooting with it. It is light weight, compact and economical to start with. It has a bellows draw of 12 inches so unless you buy a telephoto your maximum lens is a 300 mm. I believe the shortest lens it will take is a 75 mm. It is a nice camera to start LF photography.

Collecting Edward S. Curtis prints of the North American Indians.

Contact any local college, university, or community college and see if there are any continuing education courses in photography. This avenue is very affordable, educational and fun as well.

Yes, Anno, as stated earlier there isn't anything wrong with the lens, camera or ground glass. It is the projection of light through the glass. You will get used to it in LF. When you get ready to enlarge your negative put it in the carrier upside down and the image will be right side up. Now you really know what the image looks like when it hits your retina. God makes our brains translate the image to be "correct". He knew if He didn't then "puny" little man would never be able to walk. Mankind would keep falling down....or would

keep falling up. It all depends on how you look at it. Have fun

with your new camera.

You've calculated filter factor and made your exposure for the filter in the bag, NOT on your lens.

Don't forget about Virginia City, it's not too far away from Lake Tahoe. Take the drive over the mountain to Virginia City.

I agree with Brian about going the tube method rather than trays. You could go the route of Unicolor or Beseler tubes and motor base. They can be picked up at good prices on Ebay. That way the only time your are in the dark is loading the film. Developing is done in daylight. It's an option. Good luck.

Scott, due to your short time span, I would recommend Taos Pueblo or Pecos National Historic Site. Don't try Ghost Ranch because advance reservations (3 - 6 months) are required or Acoma Sky City because tripods are not allowed anywhere on the reservation. Happy shooting.

This fall I think I will leave the piles of fallen oak leafs I rake on my grass for different lengths of time before I bag them. Then when my wife complains about the yellow dead spots of grass you think I can call it a "photograph" or "art"?

I've had enough headaches dealing with Light Impressions as a

supplier of mat boards. I'm looking for another source of custom cut

4 ply acid free, buffered, cream colored mats for framing some

vintage collectable prints. Michael Smith touts Superior Archival

Mats but I have been waiting over 3 weeks for a reply to my two

requests. It must be nice to have so much business to ignore future

customers and business. Any other sources would be appreciated.

Thanks. Pat.

I have density problems with Tri-X & HC110. I try not to use it to often. Check the ph level of your water to see if the alkline level is high. This seems to excellerate the developing action of HC110. You can get a ph test kit at pool & hardware stores. Bringing down the ph may help some with your density problems. Hopes this helps.

Domenico, I bought a used cambron spot meter about 7 years ago and have used it without any problems. The instruction manual listed the manufacturer as Capital. It looks like a soligor with different name plate on it. I haven't any complaints with mine.

Curtis, learning how to recognize the tonal values in a scene does take some practice. Here is a simple solution. Take a 18% gray card and meter on it and see what value your meter assigns it. Then look and see if there is something in the scene that looks to be the same tonal range. Meter that and see if has the same value that the gray card had. If so then the gray card and that tonal range will represent zone v. Then start metering the highlights and shadow areas in the scene. The different areas in the scene will increase or decrease compared to the gray card reading. An increase/decrease of one full number is the change in one zone. Two full numbers is two zones and so forth. After awhile and practice you will learn to recognize the difference in the tonal ranges. Good luck and happy shooting.

Ansel Adams describes it in his book The Negative complete with pictures. Pat.

They claim it isn't a Tachihara but the description and pictures sure looks like my Tachihara. The only thing that looks a little different is the lens board. My Tachi has given me plenty of joy over the last 8 years. Pat.

Skip, read the following article on some of the places in the Southwest, www.largeformatphotography.info/travel/four-corners.html

Good luck, good light, happy shooting. Pat.

I think we all have suffered your experience. I have my own knock-off of Adams "White House Ruin" that was a knock-off of Jackson's

"White House Ruin". We tend to emulate our favorite photographers and in doing so will develop our own style over time. By the way, you are getting there....you saw Buster Keaton in Gene's new lens first. I had to look at it again after you mentioned it. Good light and happy shooting, Pat.

If the stains are found at the corners where you are picking them up with the tongs then it sounds like chemical contamination to me. If you are using the rubber tip bamboo tongs they absorb the chemicals. You can see that by the discoloration over time. It could then leak back out when they get wet. You should label each tong, developer, stop bath, fixer. Don't mix them during developing. If you do, then rinse it well before grabbing the next print. Keep a good supply of them on hand or switch to stainless steel and keep them clean. Wash them separately after cleaning. Also, keep your hands clean to avoid contamination of the paper before exposure. Hope this helps with your problem.

Greg, look at the graflex.org website and see what info you can get from there. Used graflex can be found on online auction sites at reasonable prices. Once you go the LF route then the price is going to escalate. You will need film holders, 4x5 film, a 4x5 enlarger, 150mm lens and so on.... You can see where I am going with this. It would be more economical to buy a gease pencil at an office supply store and mark the glass of your Mamiya for vertical & horizontal framing. I did that 30 years ago with mine and still shoot with it today. I don't want to burst your bubble LF is great and if you decide to take the plunge, then welcome to the club. There is nothing wrong with a square negative it is all in the framing.

Kodak announces new sheet film that can be loaded into film holders in total daylight.

Aaron, I can't really say if the ph has anything to do with it but the tap water I use runs about 7.8 - 7.9. The only time I have a problem is using HC-110 dilution B at 68 degrees with Tri-x. I have to shorten development about 1 minute otherwise my film is a little over developed. It doesn't happen with Plus-X. When I shoot Tmax I use Tmax RS without problems. Go figure.

Stunning!!! The images of your flowers & leaves blows those of Mapplethorpe away. I will bookmark your site as a favorite. My hat is off to you.

If you are in the states, try Radio Shack, Edmund Scientific or just a good kitchen store. Happy shooting.

Raymond, if B&H doesn't have the paper in stock, you can contact Luminos at www.luminos.com I have purchased it from Luminos directly over the phone.

Dave, I have been shooting with a Calumet Woodfield 4x5 (Tachihara with a Calumet nameplate) for about 8 years. It has held up quite well, construction & finish. Mine has a fixed 12" bellows so a 400mm wouldn't work. I shoot with a 150mm Caltar (Schnieder, and do mainly landscapes. I believe some of the newer Tach's may have extension bellows but I'm not certain. I believe you will enjoy it. Happy shooting and may the light be with you. Pat.