david_littleboy

Carl,

In terms of replacing the lens contact assembly, I too had a similar issue and you unfortunately cannot purchase just that assembly by itself from Canon.

Well, let's just say that for the 5D the specific part number in question is CY3-1519 which is called the "Box Assembly" which includes, more or less, the vast majority of the camera's "guts." Specifically, this Box Assembly includes, among other things, the Eyepiece Assembly, Focus Screen, Lens Contact Assembly, Mirror and other associated hardware. In terms of pricing, at least for the 5D that is, this unit runs $220.11 plus $15.00 shipping.

I ordered mine directly from Canon by calling them at 866.481.2569 (or at (732) 521-7230).

When I asked about the 1D Mark III, she stated it would be a similar box assembly (different part number of course) required in order to replace the contacts.

Hope that helps!

An update to my previous post...

It worked with Digital Photo Professional version 1.1, but I saw that there was an updated version on the Canon site, so I upgraded to 3.4.1... then EOS CAPTURE WOULDN'T WORK ANYMORE!

Arg, so I had to go digging through my old CDs and find the Digital Photo Professional 1.1 CD and revert back to that. Don't upgrade that program.

This page comes up every time I searched for help so figured I'd post my solution.

I was able to finally open EOS Capture and get it to recognize the 20d after I upgraded EOS Capture at the Canon site, and by opening it through Canon's Digital Photo Professional program, not through EOS Viewer.

Walter,

To answer your question, there is no "no tresspassing" sign. through research I found that the building is owned by "out of town investors", but I cannot find any way to locate them (otherwise I would). No realator's sign either. Calling a historical society would be a good idea, but I don't know if there is one in the town the building is in.

thanks.

Thanks everyone already. I hadn't heard about the Halle Berry incident, but that's interesting too.

I should mention that I live in the USA in Washington State.

Jan Piller, The pictures would hopefully be worth 70 dollars, it's an amazing old building. I wouldn't be breaking anything to get in, the door is unlocked.

Thanks.

I feel like there should be a "legal questions" section of photo.net. But I digress.

I'm planning to do a photoshoot in an abandoned building near my hometown. About a year ago, several people were

arrested for trespassing in the building. Obviously, if police saw you occupying someone else's property without

the owner's permission you would be charged with trespassing, but can tresspassing charges be applied

retroactively if someone saw the photos and told police? i.e. After the fact, can you get trespassing charges

for taking pictures that were obviously taken on other's property?

Thanks,

_____________ (I don't really want my name to be attached to this post, haha)

Recently I had the opportunity to play around with a fixed 14mm lens and had a lot of fun with it. So I've been

thinking of ways to reconfigure my lens collection in order to accommodate wider angle 'street' photography

without breaking the bank. At present I use the following lenses on my D70: a Tamron 28-75/2.8, a Nikon 50/1.8,

and a Nikon 70-300/4-5.6. My favorite and most used lens is the 50/1.8, but I find myself wishing it were a bit

wider... maybe 35mm. I love its performance in low light in any case.

Initially I was looking at the Tokina / Nikon 12-24s and the Sigma 10-20, but those are all just a little more

expensive than what I want to spend. Then it hit me that I might be able to sell off some lenses and consolidate.

So currently I'm considering selling the Tamron and buying a Nikon 16-85 or 18-70. I like that the 16-85 has VR

and a 16mm focal length at the wide end, but it just seems a bit expensive to me. Another idea I'm considering is

selling the Tamron AND the Nikon 70-300 and purchasing an 18-200. Fixed lenses actually appeal to me the most,

but, like the 14mm that initially sparked my interest, wide ones are really expensive.

I've allowed myself to spend about $400 USD + whatever I can get from selling my current lenses. To recap, my

ideal lens collection would include: a street photo lens, a portrait / telephoto lens, and a quick fixed lens

like the 50/1.8 but a bit wider (a 35/2 maybe)?

Help much appreciated. Thank you!

Has anyone had an update on this yet?

Mine is doing it and I am terrified to hand it to Nikon for weeks only to get it back with a letter saying that they can't duplicate the problem.

I need my camera and I need it to function. It's a month old for crying out loud! They are obviously still manufacturing these with the

problem which is really scary.

I had my first exposure to Photoshop when someone gave me a copy of 3.05. At the time, I had Corel's PhotoPaint (came with my scanner) and I found PS to be cumbersome and non-intuitive. Little by little, and with difficulty, I migrated my work to PS and eventually bought 4.0. I've been using legit versions ever since. Adobe eventually saw the wisdom of fully functional trials as opposed to the copy/save disabled demos they used to provide.

I also would hazard a guess that most of the unlicensed versions don't see much use because the pirates are too lazy to learn the software.

William's answer has given the best answer thus far.

But here are some more hints:

- don't go lower than f/6.3 . idealistically you want f8-f11, and between 1/160 - 1/250, or high speed sync.

you want to blow the image with the flash - don't rely on outside light to light the image.

-shooting with a fast lens, 1.2 or 2.8 doesn't mean it's going to miraculously see through the window - it doesn't. The only way to see into those car's is with fill light or backlit light - so the best is to shoot with a flash going hard, and a f-stop depth of field to pick up as much as possible.

- you should also either set you focus to manual - if you can rely on just getting the shot of them up close, and like Will said, set it to 1 metre.

the f/11 will make sure anything within 40centimetres (1ft and a half) will be in focus.

otherwise just shoot auto focus if you want to get the car moving as well.

- experiment with setting flash to manual, and between 1/32, 1/16, 1/8, even 1/4.

this is because: try shooting yourself holding the camera in the mirror. the preflash will auto downstep the exposure on auto flash (ETTL).

However, if you set to manual, and 1/32 on a canon speedlite, you'll get a good fill light.

REMEMBER: take your finger off the button with every shot, refocus and shoot.

no point having 1 shot in focus, and the next 10 out due to them moving closer to you, and you forgot to refocus!

.....

my 2 cents....

-Robb Bowen