Jump to content

richard_livitski

Members
  • Posts

    17
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by richard_livitski

  1. Thanks for the responses!

    Your top picture Rod looks exactly how it might look thru the finder! What film did u use?

    I use a polarizer all the time, but it only polarizes the sky, and when pointing at certain directions. The Mamiya finder gives the whole view a polarized look, regardless of which angle or direction the camera's pointed. I wonder how they do that?!

    Rich

  2. I have a Mamiya 7II and love the views thru the polarized viewfinder

    more than I like my final shots. Has anyone tried to match that

    polarized look using Photoshop on their final shots? If so, any

    suggestions on perhaps film types and PS techniques that might match

    it?

    Thanks,

    Rich

  3. I've noticed w/my 150mm lense on my Mamiya 7 II that critical focus

    is much more necessary to assure a sharp shot that with my other

    lenses. Frequently it's not an easy thing to achieve. I was thinking

    initially of using some sort of magnifying loupe placed up to the

    viewfinder to see when the focusing lines come together, but this

    doesn't seem to work. Mamiya sells these magnifiers but they're only

    good on they're other cameras. Anybody out there have any suggestions?

    Thanks

  4. Hi Andrew,

    Thanks for your response. I'm using the 43mm, 80mm, and 150mm w/tripod. Once I see the photo I want, I've been typically stopping the lenses down completely, then turning the focus knob to read two stops wider on the DOF scale. I've been stopping down the lenses as far as possible (to f-22 on the 43mm, and 80mm, and f-32 on the 150mm)

    after reading several posts on photo.net indicating that diffraction is only noticable on these lenses when one enlarges past 16x20's.

    Richard

  5. Hi Andrew,

    Thanks for your response. I'm using the 43mm, 80mm, and 150mm w/tripod. Once I see the photo I want, I've been typically stopping the lenses down completely, then turning the focus knob to read two stops wider on the DOF scale. I've been stopping down the lenses as far as possible (to f-22 on the 43mm, and 80mm, and f-32 on the 150mm)

    after reading several posts on photo.net indicating that diffraction is only noticable on these lenses when one enlarges past 16x20's.

    Richard

  6. I've been using my Mamiya 7 when shooting landscapes, and have been

    using the hyperfocal settings in order to get the best overall focus

    of the scene. Yes, I also realize that Mamiyas hyperfocal numbers are

    too generous, so I focus down 2 stops to compensate on all lenses.

    Yet, when I see the final enlargements (typically 11x14) I'm left

    with the impression that I can achieve sharper images.

    When you shoot landscapes and you have say a mountain range at

    infinity, with other interesting objects much closer as well, what do

    you focus on in order to achieve the sharpest overall focus? The

    mountain range, then stop down all the way? A subject say 1/3rd of

    the way to infinity, then stop down? Does focusing as you do, give

    you sharper results than using hyperfocal settings?

    Thanks

  7. Hi Will,

    I have a Mamiya 7II w/43mm, 80mm & 150mm and currently use a Lowepro "Omni-Sport". This bag works perfectly as I'm able to fit body and 3 lenses (as long as one is mounted on the camera) and a few rolls of film and small accessories. Being that you'll only be carrying body and 2 lenses, this will give you extra space for accessories. The thing I like best about it is that it has a strap system that allows for either shoulder carrying or can be worn as a lightweight fanny pack. Also it has moveable inner velcroed, dividers. It cost me about $75 US, and is worth every penny of it!!

  8. Hi Will,

    I have a Mamiya 7II w/43mm, 80mm & 150mm and currently use a Lowepro "Omni-Sport". This bag works perfectly as I'm able to fit body and 3 lenses (as long as one is mounted on the camera) and a few rolls of film and small accessories. Being that you'll only be carrying body and 2 lenses, this will give you extra space for accessories. The thing I like best about it is that it has a strap system that allows for either shoulder carrying or can be worn as a lightweight fanny pack. Also it has moveable inner velcroed, dividers. It cost me about $75 US, and is worth every penny of it!

  9. I've recently purchased a used Mamiya 7II w/lenses. When going to

    focus on infinity, unlike all other 35mm cameras I've used, the focus

    ring on the Mamiya doesn't stop at actual infinity, it still has some

    additional play at the end.

    Having never encountered this with any other camera I've owned, it

    made me wonder if perhaps (because my camera was bought used) my

    focus might need calibration. So I called Mamiya and asked if it was

    normal with these cameras to have additional play after having

    reached infinity, and they said yes it was, as the focus was designed

    to allow for expansion and contraction of the camera body. This sure

    seemed fishy to me as the camera bodies aren't made of wood!

    My question is this....does the focus ring on your Mamiya stop when

    infinity is reached? or does it have additional play at the end?

    Thanks

  10. I recently aquired a Mamiya 7 w/3 lenses and finders and went out for

    some shooting at the local beach. Since I enjoy shooting alone, and

    live in a fianancially diverse, large city, I soon realized that I

    was no longer toteing around my old $400 Canon, but a camera worth

    several thousand $$$.

    My question is this....when you go out for a shoot, do you do

    anything, or not do anything special for security?

    Thanks

  11. In wanting to get as much depth of field as possible when shooting,

    is diffraction a major problem with Mamiya lenses when their stopped

    all the way down? At what point when enlarging might I notice it, at

    8x10? 16x20?

    When stopped all the way down, do certain Mamiya lenses perform

    better than others? If diffraction is a problem, at what f-stop does

    it become un-noticable?

    Thanks

  12. I recently purchased a M-7 with 43mm,80mm, and 150mm lenses. Having

    recently rented one prior to purchase. I have found (as have others)

    that using Mamiya's recommended hyperfocal numbers produced pictures

    that were oh so mediocre in regards to sharpness. Can anyone please

    share with me truly accurate (from your own experiences) hyperfocal

    numbers on the above mentioned lenses? I wish I could stop down to f-

    22 on all landscape shots, but windy days don't always allow for it.

    Thanks

  13. I've noticed that there are "L" series lenses for the Mamiya 7 cameras

    and non-"L" series lenses. Does anyone know the difference? When

    buying used,is it worth any additional $$ to go for the "L" series?

    Also, I've heard that the view thru the rangefinder of the new 7II is

    better than the old, yet is it enuf difference to warrant paying

    additional $$$ for? Thanks

  14. Since buying a Mamiya 7 new would be financially out of my range.

    There's a local, monthly camera show that has many used Mamiya bodies

    and lenses for sale at substantially lower prices than new.

    Sometimes, the lenses and bodies that are being sold are being sold

    cause they're not the greatest in quality or sharpness. Yet, I have

    to ask myself, apart from say, the lenses maybe having been dropped,

    what can one really do to them that might affect their performance?

    Since I will be looking to purchase a Mamiya 7 body, a 43mm, 80mm,

    and 150mm lenses, is there anything that can really be "wrong" with

    these things that make buying them used, a dumb idea?

    When shopping for these items, any tips on things to look for to

    avoid purchasing bad equipment? Any specific questions one might ask

    the seller, in order to reveal poor quality merchandise? Thanks.

×
×
  • Create New...