paul heskes

<p>I have no knowledge about pre-production model F6 problems. However, early release models had a Factory recall to fix a battery life/indicator problem where batteries would either fail very quickly or the camera would indicate the batteries were dead way before they actually were.<br>

Personally I have not had either problem, nor any others that would put me off buying another if I ever lost mine, although the stated 15 rolls battery life is nowhere near the actual life expectancy you 'will' get from a couple of CR123A's.</p>

<p>Hi Martijn<br>

The Sigma 12-24mm will serve you well if you get a good copy. Buy carefully as there appear to be a great many sample variations around, as there is with the 10-20mm Sigma.</p>

<p>I have one and use it with my Nikon digital and film bodies. For me, there is nothing else available in one package that will do the job.</p>

<p>My copy is sharp at f/8 and beyond, acceptable below. You cannot mount front mounted filters, but there is a work around, or you could use one of the larger filter holders. Personally, I've never missed not being able to mount filters on it, as I find the results quite warm and saturated to start with.<br>

Where this lens excels, is in its ability to give very wide, "on film or FF" virtually distortion free images at normal viewing distances and off course, the ability to use it on digital as well as film or FF.</p>

<p>Paul</p>

<p>Updates applied a couple of days ago, just tried NX2 and everything is working fine.<br>

It's a long shot but, try installing Microsoft.NET framework version 3.5 + service pack along with Microsoft's visual C++ 2005 redistributable if not already done so!</p>

<p>Good luck</p>

<p>Pretty sure someone posted a tutorial on here about how to go about this Tracy "I think they used 2 car batteries in a large holdall". Try a search, or google it if nothing shows here.</p>

<p>Regards<br>

Paul</p>

<p>Hi Joseph<br>

It looks like dust, but cannot be too sure until you show us a 100% crop.</p>

<p>I have an issue with my D300, where occasionally "4x in 3 months" I have found a grease/silicone like substance on the sensor, pretty obvious when viewed at full size though. Hopefully yours will be dust free after a quick blow through and not require a wet clean.</p>

<p>Good luck </p><div></div>

<p>Hi Sunil<br />The Nikon 18-70mm f/3.5-4.5 AF-S kit lens would make for an ideal portrait lens from 35mm upward. It is the best kit lens available for the money, very sharp and there are a great many available now secondhand.</p>

<p>If you are starting out and don't have much in the way of kit, this will also give you a very capable mid range zoom, light, take anywhere lens, that shouldn't give you any problems when using the D40's pop-up flash.</p>

<p>Devin<br />the 28-80 f2.8 Tokina neither extends while zooming nor rotates while focusing. I recently sold mine after comparing it for some time with the Nikkor 28-70mm.<br />In the end, there was nothing between them, but the Nikon won out simply because of the brand and a slightly loose 'aperture ring lock' on the Tokina.<br />Make sure you get to handle the copy you are buying before you part with your cash though, there are lots of stories about soft versions on the web.</p>

<p>I received a Spanish manual with my SB-800 which I bought in the U.K "must have been a grey import".</p>

<p>I called Nikon U.K and they told me to "send in my Spanish manual" to an address they quoted over the phone, which I did. Within a week I had a genuine 'English' manual in my hands, just for the price of the return postage.</p>

<p>Perhaps Nikon customer services have a similar service in your neck of the woods!</p>

 

<p>The Nikon Nikkor 28-70mm f2.8 does it for me and can be picked up 'used' very reasonably since the intro of the 24-70mm. My 85mm and 50mm primes have been pretty much redundant since I picked it up and I find it on my camera most of the time these days.<br>

Good luck</p><div></div>

<p>Hi Jonathan<br />I had the same problem with my Bowens Tri-lites, that use the same kind of clamp. The clamps are mostly aluminium and shouldn't be over tightened or left in the tightened position for any length of time. Which isn't answering your question!<br />What I did after spraying the metal parts with lube "although that didn't work due to the difficulty in getting the lube where it needed to be" was to get myself a pair of narrow jawed plumbers pliers "wrench" with as fine a tooth I could find. I used these to grip the 1/2" of aluminium grooved sleeve that you'll find at the back of the plastic hand lever and while gripping as tightly as possible, to avoid as much slipping and damage to the grooved ring, move the wrench anticlockwise until you hear a loud crack which should indicate the joint freeing up.</p>

<p>Good luck</p>

<p>I'm sure that Nikon upgraded the warranty with the release of the D300 to 2 years instead of 1<br>

I recall a slip of paper in the box asking me to register the camera with Nikon to get the extra year, although I'm not sure how that would affect your statutory rights if you didn't!</p>

<p>Paul</p>

Huseyin<br>I think you're right to suspect the grease coming from the internal workings of the D300, as I mentioned

above, there has been quite a few cases exhibiting the same kind of spots and some have gone on to say it could be

the D300's 'vibrating sensor cleaning feature' at fault, while others say it could be grease from a mounted

lens.<br>Whatever the cause, the problem with mine has not reoccurred and it is a simple matter of wet cleaning the

protective glass sensor cover to remove the offending spots, just be prepared to swipe the sensor a few times and

don't overly wet the pads.<P>An alternative "if you are worried about cleaning the sensor yourself" would be to send

it to Nikon for cleaning whilst raising your concerns. However, I doubt that you would get a definite answer, just a bill

and maybe a clean sensor.<P>Good luck<P>Paul

Jerd<br>I had a very similar spot on my D300's sensor it turned out to be a silicon or grease based spot that I can only put down to coming from somewhere internally.<br>There has been quite a bit of debate about grease on the internals of the D300 making its way onto the sensor, I think there was a post here a few months back!<P>Anyway, The offending spot on my sensor was wet and I doubt that any dry method would have removed it successfully without harming the sensor. As it was, I used up 8 'Digi pads' and some of the new type 'Eclipse fluid' before the sensor was properly clean again.<br> Since then my sensor has been a bit of a dust magnet, but luckily, only loose dust that the D300's own dust removal system or my blower has managed to shift.<p>If you do go for a 'wet clean' make sure you get the correct fluid for <b>tin oxide coated sensors</b> as there are rumours that the older Eclipse fluid could damage a D300's sensor, and don't worry about trying it yourself, it's really simple, just have a fully charged battery ready.<P>Good luck<P>Paul<div></div>

Linky<P><a href="http://www.imagetrendsinc.com/products/prodpage_hemi.asp" >Fisheye Hemi</a><p>Paul

Fisheye Hemi from Image Trends.<p>Superb<p><p>Paul

Mark<br>I'm not sure what country you are in, but I just checked on the Nikon Europe site and in the software downloads section you can download a copy of Capture NX version 1.3.0. <br>This is a trial version of Capture NX, but if it is a first time install, it will ask you on completion "if you would like to activate it by inserting a product key or, carry on with the trial version".<P>If you insert the product key which you have and it isn't currently in use, it should allow you to use the software as a fully functional version of Capture NX, you can then download and use the latest version V1.3.4.<P> As long as the previous user is no longer using that serial on a working copy, there is no reason why you should not use it.<P>Good luck<P>Paul

I sold my shop bought boxed copy on eBay when I got the free version with my D300.<br> As already mentioned and

as far as I am aware, as long as the previous owner has uninstalled the copy which was registered with the serial

you are about to receive, there shouldn't be a problem, just do a check for updates as soon as you install it, the

latest capture NX 1 is v1.3.4.<P>Paul

Hi<P>

I'm sure some folks here will correct me if I'm wrong, but I looked at the info for the latest D300 firmware when I downloaded it and I'm sure I didn't see any mention of the firmware correcting anything other than the battery problem some people are having with the D300.<br>I haven't installed the upgrade yet as I have not had any issues with the camera. My apologies if I'm wrong and I know I'm not being very helpful with your question.<P>Paul

Build wise the 1.4 is much better. In terms of sharpness, colour and contrast I find very little between the two and certainly nothing to justify more than double the asking price for the 1.4. The bokeh is better on the 1.4 and it renders out of focus highlights better than the 1.8.<br>If you really need the extra light that the 1.4 will give you then go for it. Otherwise you could simply increase the ISO of your D80 and put up with a little extra noise.<P>Pricewise the 1.8 is one of the best lenses around<P>Regards<P>Paul

If you can afford it and intend to use the F6 you will not be disappointed with your purchase.<br> The F6 just begs to be picked up and used and in return it will not let you down, but it would be a crying shame if it was left to gather dust after a few months.<p>I have mentioned before, "if there is just one film camera worth buying before the onslaught of digital, then it has to be the F6!"<P>Wenhan, if you can afford it you don't need to justify it, just buy it, you'll love it!<P>Regards<P>Paul

Almost had a similar accident a couple of months back with the D300, when the lens came clean away from the camera. Luckily the camera was lying down in my bag at the time and stayed there while I was left holding the lens and thinking of the possibilities.<br>I have the annoying habit of picking up the camera by the lens with my fingers close to the mounting ring. Although I still do, I'm always wary of catching the release with my index finger and always give the lens a quick twist these days!<p>Paul

Not sure what is going on with the text input, but that garbled mess should read "90 degree to the direction you are shooting in".

Kevin<br>You'll see the best polarised results on the sky when the Sun is approximately 90ﾰ to the direction you are shooting in. e.g make sure the Sun is over one of your shoulders when shooting with the filter.<br>With regards to the effect the filter has on the colour saturation of the sky, the closer the Sun is to either 12 or 6 o'clock in relation to your shooting direction, the less effect the filter will have on the saturation of the sky.<P>P.S I hope this makes some sense!

<quote>"I know that one costs more that the other, ....is it worth the extra $"?</quote><P>Definitely.

Hi Carl<br>I for one would be interested in the results of your test. There is a handy tutorial in the<a href=http://www.photo.net/info/frequent-questions#upload_forum_images> F.A.Q.section</a> of Photo.net.<P><P>Paul