cash_chew

This is another question regarding the Lightroom Setup. I have unchecked the box of

"Treat JPEG files next to raw files as separate photos".

Somehow both jpeg and nef files are imported as separate files in the catalog. I wonder if this feature does not work if nef and jpeg are captured on different sd cards.

(Edit) Confirmed this feature only works when both files are captured on the same card

Yes you are right! I have the Auto Distortion Control set to ON.

Yes, both files have the same resolution. However, when I toggle both images, I can see that the jpg is cropped a little compared to the nef.

I setup the camera with 1 SD card capture raw, and the other jpg. While importing the images using Lightroom, I

noticed that the image from the jpg is cropped a little compared to the same image captured in raw. Is this the

norm, or setting-related issue?

After verifying with B&H that the seller bought less than 2

months ago, finally got the camera. It is not affected with flare

issue. As per Shun's advice, tested some of the important

functions, and all seem well. All the extra free accessories from

the kit purchased are included, plus LCD screen protectors, 2

high speed SD cards, and B+W UV filter. That is 600 saving from

brand new. Cross the fingers that everything is in its mint

condition. The seller is very helpful!

<p>Thanks Shun! I guess I can test 1,2,4,6,7,8. I don't have a gps unit, nor have a new battery to test it with. I assume the battery comes with it. If the purchase goes well, do I need to ask seller to sign any document to protect myself from ending up in the stolen list???</p>

<p>Here this is the reply from the seller:<br>

"Yes, I have the original receipt from B&H showing the serial number. I am selling it because I am switching to mirrorless. I am also selling my Nikon 70-200 F2.8 VR2"<br>

@Michael, so by calling B&H and I should be able to know if it is indeed a US version? I supposed the receipt from B&H should tell if the seller is the original buyer if credit card is used? Do you have a link to the stolen list online that I can check?<br>

Thanks guys!</p>

<p>I was thinking of getting a nikon d750 kit from someone posted on craiglist. The owner claims he has the original receipt from B&H, together with warranty cards. Is there anyway to verify that it is US version, instead of Import, both for body and lenses? Also, what are things that I can check on the spot to make sure the body and lenses are in good working condition? Should I get both parties to sign Bill-of-Sale or something, or is there anything else I can do for my protection?</p>

<p>I set SB800 flash to TTL and D80 camera in Rear curtain Sync in M exposure if this is what you are asking.</p>

<p>Thanks Guys! I had an experience that on a sunny day outdoor, I took some pictures at around 20-35mm on D80 where the subject is about 8 feet from the camera. I compensated the SB800 flash to +1EV and the subject's face was still underexpose while the camera exposure was set to correct background exposure. The subject was 1/3 on the right of the frame about full body length. On that shot, I tilted the flash head toward the subject. I had my cap diffuser on. May be I shouldn't have had the diffuser cap on for outdoor fill flash??</p>

<p>While getting an FV lock and focus lock on a foreground subject in an ambient light background, do I have to tilt SB800 toward the subject when recompose my camera so that the subject is off center in order to get the correct flash exposure?</p>

<p>Interesting to see this from Amazon website with <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B0076AYNXM/ref=dp_olp_used?ie=UTF8&condition=used">15 used</a> from $1,388.00</p>

<p>Thanks Tom. I will look into this Nik CEP or OnOne Photo Tools. I like the idea of burning the background to bring out the subject. Will try that out on some of my photos :)</p>

<p>Tom, Yes, I saw the original, and I am very interested in how you get that color. Thanks.</p>

<p>Tom, can you share how you did that in ps? That looks great!</p>

<p>I tried SB-800 for TTL vs TTL/BL mode in Manual Exposure (M) mode on camera. Other than a slight less flash power given out on TTL/BL as compared to TTL mode, I still don't see any significant ambient light difference when I took sample photos in a dim ambient tungsten light cover about 1/5 of the left frame. When exactly do you use TTL/BL instead of TTL for a given situation to make a big difference?</p>

<p>Oliver, yes I was thinking of that too, but I like to use it for exposure lock since I can't assign Func button for exposure lock or Focus On purpose.</p>

<p>I have a D80 since its first debut, and it does not have an AF-ON button, and I like to use AE/AF button for AE lock, and the function button cannot be used for focus activation, and I use it for Flash Lock. I borrowed a D700 from my friend to play with, and kinda like the idea of extra AF-ON button. Sometimes I have to increase the aperture not because I want a very shallow DOF, but to increase shutter speed while keeping ISO up to 400 for my D80. As a hobbyist, wish that I can afford a D7000 soon if not a D700.</p>

 

<p>Normally when I take portrait photos (fairly still subject), I like to use AF-S with single point AF so that I can move focus point around to focus on eye or face, and then recompose the frame (focus points don't cover the whole frame, therefore recomposing the frame to my likes for off center subject) before releasing the shutter. There are times that the pictures were not as sharp due to shallow DOF or frame recomposition. Any better alternative of taking sharp picture other than increasing aperture number?<br>

Some veterans here like to use AF-ON button to activate focus, while other use half-shutter pressed (including myself). What are the pros and cons on this? If I need to take still and moving subject, can I just set the camera to AF-C all the time and still be able to take still portrait and recompose frame using AF-ON button to do focus activation only? This is the only thing I can think of that the half-shutter will not lock the focus on AF-C mode when you recompose. Any drawback on this approach taking still portrait?</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Finally received the bayonet and got the lens repaired. It didn't take much time, however I lost a screw during repair and at the end have to use one of those screws from glasses to secure the contact pins.</p>

<p>I got back from my vacation. I called Nikon to find out how much it costs to get that bayonet mount, boy am I lucky that the customer support told me they will send one free of charge (not even shipping). I guess Nikon must have a lot of these bayonet mount issues in certain low-end lenses.</p>

<p>Today is my last day of vacation. While on my vacation, I have a 50mm 1.4 as backup. However, it is not wide enough for my vacation use, and I hate to loose those wonderful moments of my family vacation. Although the broken lens cannot be securely mounted on the body (the lens came loose when it is tilted up, but not holding it down pressing it against the bottom part of the lens mount on camera body), I had managed to finish the last 3 days of shootings by carefully holding this lens. Everything works fine, but now I am worrying about dust getting into camera's sensor due to frequent lens changing and broken lens came off from time to time. I searched youtube and found a video clip to replace rear mount of a different lens. Thanks <a href="../photodb/user?user_id=114609">Kurt Holter</a> for the part's link.</p>

<p>I am on my vacation and yesterday I dropped my backpack about 2 feet from the ground with my above lens attached on D80. The one part of the rear mount assembly thread was broken and the lens could no longer secure to the camera, not even the rear lens cap. I wonder if Nikon 5-year warranty cover this, or should I just buy the rear mount assembly and fix it myself if it is something easy for DIY. Any idea where I can buy them from without spending too much?<br>

Hian</p>

<p>Shun, does that mean that P* can do the same as in Aperture mode when flash is not used?</p>

<p>Hi Jerry,<br>

Sorry for not being clear. I meant A for Aperture priority</p>